2015 LR4 front end sagging overnight
- Thread starter Salanizi
- Start date
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I had a similar issue with valve blocks and sagging; with new seals I've had no issues (it doesn't sag even when left for weeks). I've read here that not all seal kits are created equal... The ones I purchased and subsequently recommended seem to be working for others as well. Here's the link:
Here's my post on this with additional videos:
www.landroverworld.org
Is the sagging the whole front or one side? If it's a side that would imply a leak somewhere else (air spring or pipe that runs from the air spring to the valve block). I assume you leak checked these locations? Tiny amounts of silicon grease is your friend when changing and seating seals. FWIW, the center valve is the most complex of the three so watch those videos carefully. Good luck.
Range Rover Sport LR3 LR4 Air Suspension Valve Block O Ring Seal
Range Rover Sport LR3 LR4 Air Suspension Valve Block O Ring Seal
www.britishpartsofutah.com
Here's my post on this with additional videos:
2012 LR4 Reluctant to lower from off-road suspension mode
Changing the dryer, if you have a Hitachi compressor, is straight forward. Hardest part will be disconnecting the hoses from the back side of the compressor (intake and exhaust hoses), and re-installing the compressor bracket when you reassemble due to a hard to reach bolt that need to be...
www.landroverworld.org
Is the sagging the whole front or one side? If it's a side that would imply a leak somewhere else (air spring or pipe that runs from the air spring to the valve block). I assume you leak checked these locations? Tiny amounts of silicon grease is your friend when changing and seating seals. FWIW, the center valve is the most complex of the three so watch those videos carefully. Good luck.
That’s the kid I bought and it’s both sides equally.I had a similar issue with valve blocks and sagging; with new seals I've had no issues (it doesn't sag even when left for weeks). I've read here that not all seal kits are created equal... The ones I purchased and subsequently recommended seem to be working for others as well. Here's the link:
Range Rover Sport LR3 LR4 Air Suspension Valve Block O Ring Seal
Range Rover Sport LR3 LR4 Air Suspension Valve Block O Ring Sealwww.britishpartsofutah.com
Here's my post on this with additional videos:
2012 LR4 Reluctant to lower from off-road suspension mode
Changing the dryer, if you have a Hitachi compressor, is straight forward. Hardest part will be disconnecting the hoses from the back side of the compressor (intake and exhaust hoses), and re-installing the compressor bracket when you reassemble due to a hard to reach bolt that need to be...
Is the sagging the whole front or one side? If it's a side that would imply a leak somewhere else (air spring or pipe that runs from the air spring to the valve block). I assume you leak checked these locations? Tiny amounts of silicon grease is your friend when changing and seating seals. FWIW, the center valve is the most complex of the three so watch those videos carefully. Good luck.
That second video is great, but I did exactly that. I guess I’ll take it apart again and see.
One of my leaks came from a loose Voss fitting, so make sure you check those with soapy water when the system is pressurized again. I ended up putting the wheel back on without the fender liner.
I was surprised the kit didn’t come with these. Do we have a source on them? I have a universal o-ring kit I can check but a difference of a mm is a lot here.
I just snugged mine and it was fine. I have heard they are single use though.
mbw
Full Access Member
You can have a front or rear end sag from just bad EAS calibration also FYI. I had my rear sagging down after awhile and i replaced valve blocks and such trying to figure it out.
Turns out I just needed to do an EAS Calibration via the GAP IID tool and that fixed it.
If you have a bad calibration it can wake up and try to level, but "level" is out of wack to the computer so it lets out air over and over, little by little. Its a bit weird.. but I fixed my issues and haven't had it since. If it sits for a month or more it can sometimes be a little lower, but never on the bumps. I am at 11 years on the original rear bags on my 2013 and they don't leak.
Turns out I just needed to do an EAS Calibration via the GAP IID tool and that fixed it.
If you have a bad calibration it can wake up and try to level, but "level" is out of wack to the computer so it lets out air over and over, little by little. Its a bit weird.. but I fixed my issues and haven't had it since. If it sits for a month or more it can sometimes be a little lower, but never on the bumps. I am at 11 years on the original rear bags on my 2013 and they don't leak.
Alright, calibrated. It was pretty close, or my measuring was off. Either way, we’ll see. Front end lifted on startup and the truck was only parked 4 hours.
I thought about it more, and it still lost air with the EAS fuse pulled. So I’m guess it isn’t calibration and it is a leak.
I thought about it more, and it still lost air with the EAS fuse pulled. So I’m guess it isn’t calibration and it is a leak.
