2016 LR4 Coolant Crossover, Water Pump, Thermostat Replacement

jlglr4

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I had not seen that coating issue before. Apparently its not actually teflon, but some kind of wear coating that allows them to get really tight tolerances. Not sure what causes the coating to come off, but it makes me think twice about using those valve cleaners sprayed through the air intake (which is something I was contemplating as a regular service).

Can’t help with the extra *****. I do find it odd, though, that you needed a longer ***** in the front. When I did this job, they had just redesigned the front crossover pipes. The new pipe had a shallower shoulder on that front attachment point than the old one, and I could not get the longer ***** in all the way - had to swap it for one of the shorter screws from the bracket at the back of the charger.

That missing clip is really frustrating - did it drop into the engine bay? Try searching for evap quick connect fittings or even coolant quick connect fittings. You might also look at evap hoses for ford cars as these might still be ford fittings. For instance, it looks like a similar fitting on this ford evap hose for $40 (and free returns on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Vapour-Solen...ang+2-Door+2.3+Ecoboost&qid=1631893922&sr=8-3. Or maybe you could find a used hose on ebay.
 

Arman

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I had not seen that coating issue before. Apparently its not actually teflon, but some kind of wear coating that allows them to get really tight tolerances. Not sure what causes the coating to come off, but it makes me think twice about using those valve cleaners sprayed through the air intake (which is something I was contemplating as a regular service).
I did a quick google search and found many threads on "supercharger coating peeling", looks like it is a common thing for high mileage, but I didn't search our engine particularly (I believe most eaton superchargers should be more or less the same construction?).
Many people actually strip this coating with aircraft stripper to prevent clogging of intercooler and debri going into cylinders: https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/teflon-coating-on-eaton-pealing-off.570828/
I am avoiding valve/carb/seafoam cleaners on new-ish engines, as I am not sure if they do more good or harm...

Can’t help with the extra *****. I do find it odd, though, that you needed a longer ***** in the front. When I did this job, they had just redesigned the front crossover pipes. The new pipe had a shallower shoulder on that front attachment point than the old one, and I could not get the longer ***** in all the way - had to swap it for one of the shorter screws from the bracket at the back of the charger.
I had old design front pipes too, which I replaced with the new design. But I have also replaced the supercharger. And it appears that a lot of holes in this engine come untapped from the factory, and the bolts are actually self-tapping. This was the case with the supercharger too - it had untapped holes, and I just had to apply a bit more torque to the bolt, and it made its own thread (it was still under 10 Nm while tapping).
So be gentle with these threads - the metal is soft, otherwise there would be no way I could tap with a ***** and stay under 10 Nm all the time. It's a whole new level of cost savinng. I remember wondering why they don't do helicoils from factory, and here is the answer - they are trying to save every cent, literally! (don't need to tap, and assemblers don't need to manually start the bolts - they can ugga-dugga them right in without danger of cross threading)
That missing clip is really frustrating - did it drop into the engine bay? Try searching for evap quick connect fittings or even coolant quick connect fittings. You might also look at evap hoses for ford cars as these might still be ford fittings. For instance, it looks like a similar fitting on this ford evap hose for $40 (and free returns on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Vapour-Solen...ang+2-Door+2.3+Ecoboost&qid=1631893922&sr=8-3. Or maybe you could find a used hose on ebay.
Thank you so much! Perhaps I will have a trip to a junkyard, as I need a few other random pieces. It is good to know that I can look at Fords for these fittings (there are many more fords that LR3 or LR4 in US junkyards :) )
 

16FujiDisco

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I emailed Seafoam and Berryman (chemtool products maker) and both said they are supercharger (and turbo) safe. Now I didn't ask about the coating, but I assumed all superchargers had that, and safe meant ok for that.
I did notice that mine had some missing spots, but it wasn't flaking off; more like rubbing off or being abraided off. When I sprayed intake cleaner and wiped it down, nothing came off.
 

go_jesse

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Also I have lost a plastic clip from the fuel vapor line that goes into the supercharger (LR010749) - any ideas if I can get that clip, or connector from somewhere without having to buy a whole hose? (buying a new hose for $180 is kind of too much for a plastic clip...)

Thanks for your feedback! Glad you got it all figured out and didn't start it with the paper in there!
I'm not sure the size, but both Amazon (linked) and Autozone (linked) have this kind of connector (barb to nylon) in many different sizes. I'd be worried about that connector popping off if you don't have the clip in there.
 

timc930

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I only used sealant on the SC snout.
What sealant did you use, I thinking about Loctite 518 or similar due to it being machine surfaces mating. Looks like some are using anaerobic like 518.
 
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jlglr4

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I used RTV red. Someone else said the black RTV also is fine. I guess anaerobic would work, I’d just be extea careful not to have any extra squeeze out inside where you can’t wipe it off. You want to be careful anyway, but the anaerobic excess won’t cure. Most people just use regular RTV or the like.
 

timc930

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Thanks. Another question, can't really tell if the coolant was originally Pink or Orange (Dex), as it's been diluted to 50/50, and it's 6 years old. What did you guys go back with?
 

jlglr4

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Mine was very definitely orange, but I was too lazy to try to sort out what LR‘s actual formulation was and whether there was any risk of reaction with Dex, so I just bought LR coolant. It was something like $30 for a jug of concentrate. I bought two, but could have gotten by with one. I drained down far enough to change the T-stat, but didn’t try to fully drain.
 

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