2016 LR4 SCV6 Coolant Issues

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CoastieLR4

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Hey all,

Hate that my first thread is asking for help but that's what drives us all here isn't it? My second one will hopefully be a detailed one of a water pump change.

I have a 16' LR4 SCV6 with 41k miles on it. I got the coolant low light about a week ago, monitored and saw it coming down the coolant hose out of the bottom of the thermostat. I also found a bunch of it in the valley of the motor below the supercharger (That has been fixed). I subsequently replaced the water pump and the oil cooler tube seals (pump probably didn't need to be replaced but my dealer only charged me $200 for it so I replaced it because I was in there). The seals on the oil cooler definitely had signs of leaking and so far so good, the valley is dry.

Do you all think the leak is from the thermostat housing or the coolant hose? The truck never overheated.

I was hoping that the coolant found on the thermostat hose was coming from the water pump area.. didn't really have any signs of that though but hey, a guy can hope!

Truck is running great, coolant system is bled. Can you all help me diagnose...? Has anyone had a similar issue?

Here are two pictures, one of the thermostat looking up from underneath. You can see the dark spot on the black plastic is fluid. The second is of the T connection at the base of the coolant fan and radiator where it seems to all be gathering. The guy at the parts desk was almost certain that the thermostats aren't usually the problems on these trucks but who knows.. I'm still between thermostat and hose and can't decide which.

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CoastieLR4

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coolant in the valley?
crossover pipe(s) are the first thing that comes to mind.

https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/coolant-crossover-pipe-outlet-tube-for-scv6-lr4.30729/


Thanks. The coolant in the valley has been taken care of by the water pump and oil cooler tube seals.

I need help diagnosing this leak around the thermostat area.. leaking thermostat or leaking coolant hose? The picture is from the bottom looking up.. coolant shouldn't flow up but could because of the fan..
 

jlglr4

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I did see a manufacturer communication on nhtsa.gov mentioning complaints on thermostat housing leaks, though i haven’t seen people mention it on the forum.
thermostat part no. is lr095895. might also need lower hose lr050855.
 

jlglr4

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If you are looking to do the front coolant crossover, new part numbers are Water Manifold lr090630 and Water Pipe lr092992. Must buy both as both are redesigned. Its no small job to pull the supercharger, so if you do it, might as well do the rear crossover as well: Manifold - Heater lr109401.
 

CoastieLR4

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Thanks guys. I'm trying to avoid pulling the supercharger right now. If I do that I'll take it to an indy so if he screws it up he's responsible for it.

The valley is dry so I have no reason to think its the water manifold or crossover pipes. I fixed that problem with just oil cooler tube seals and a new water pump.. probably was just the seals but since I was there did the pump.

I think I'll start with the lower hose... and then move to the thermostat and hope it solves it. I'll keep you all updated.
 

Robin Parsons

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I had no reason to suspect crossover pipes either, ... and then blew with no warning at 55 to 6 mph on a hill. Coolant gone and engine lost in less than 60 seconds. I strongly recommend that you invest in changing both front and REAR crossover pipes. Especially if they are the 2 piece fusion welded type. It just isnt worth the risk when they are such well known failure points. Mine cost me $21k to replace engine. Of course look for other issues as these may not be the current problem. But likely will be a problem eventually
 

CoastieLR4

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Thanks all. I don't see a reason to invest in the crossover pipes when they aren't leaking at all. I know they are a wear item, but until they start seeping or showing the wear I'm going to hold off. Its $800 to get the supercharger pulled and the front crossover replaced.. add in the rear and it's $1000. Until I get a reason to do so I'll hold off.

As for an update - replaced the thermostat and lower coolant hose and good to go! No more leaking! Recommend if you are doing the thermostat to get a few of the hose clamps that clamp it closed so you don't loose all the coolant out of the system. Also have a good set of 90 degree pliers to get the clamps off. It would be super easy too if you pull the fan out of the way.. I didn't for this but did when I did the water pump and that would have made it super easy.
 

Robin Parsons

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Coasting LR4...

While I think your 2016 probably already has the newer style crossovers, look closely at then and make sure. If they have flat sides glued together along the length, then replace asap. Regardless of cost. The well known failures are between 50 and 80k m I kes per most comments herein. I took the "wait until I see indications of leak" approach also. I am ex-militry, and meticulous on daily and weekly inspections. And maintenance. I had checked closely the morning of my failure. Completely dry. So like all the others herein who have experienced and commented, there is most often NO early warning.No pulling over and adding water to limp home. It us a sudden and nearly instant catasyrophic engine failure. $21k + to repair. I lost the engine in less than 1 minute over less than 1 mile at 65 mph. I very much regret not following all the advice from other members.

However, I do think that 2016 came with new style parts.
 

Curt Hokanson

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Robin Parsons - I just had the same issue with my 2016 LR4... Coming up Vail Pass. Coolant Light on, Overheating, pulled over, towed to Denver. First shop didn't realize what was going on and replaced the water-pump and coolant tubing. Didn't fix it.

Towed to dealership and they told me the engine was fried. Did you purchase a new engine from Land Rover (my quote is also around $21k)? Did you consider any used engines?
 

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