AC Condenser Replacement Part Quality?

[Tapps33]

As I'm in the middle of an engine swap, I thought it best to replace the AC condenser since the system has been evacuated and disconnected....and it's gonna sit for like a month. Basically, I expect the receiver drier to be toast, and really anytime you crack these systems open, it's a decent idea to replace the drier. Unfortunately, our receiver driers are soldered to the AC condenser. Since I'm just finishing a move and can't get to my torch and soldering supplies, simply swapping the whole assembly makes sense...and because that's how it mostly comes, as a combined unit.

So, the question I have is has anyone done this swap, and more importantly, which "version" of the part did you use? Thus far I've found 2 different "styles," but I have no feedback aside from, the OE has worked this long...

Style 1 is the OE style:

https://www.roverparts.com/heating-cooling/ac-condenser/LR021824/

Style 2 is the aftermarket "upgrade":

New 1Pc A/C Condenser w/ Receiver Drier for Land Rover LR3 LR4 2005 2006 07-13 | eBay

Land Rover LR4 2010-2013 V8 5.0L w/ Receiver Drier, w/ Bracket. Land Rover LR3 2005-2009 V8 4.4L w/ Receiver Drier, w/ Bracket. Land Rover LR3 2005-2009 V6 4.0L w/ Receiver Drier, w/ Bracket. Note: With Receiver Drier, With Bracket.

www.ebay.com

Clearly, the aftermarket style appears to be made a little sturdier, but sturdy comes at the cost of potential heat sink surface area. And to be honest, I've flipped the OE one out of the way all the time and never had any issues with it holding up.

Anyone out there run one of the aftermarket versions? I'm tempted because of the price difference, but let's be honest, that could backfire in a heartbeat!!!

Thoughts, comments, recommendations?

 

[Rover Range]

The open ports can be capped with plastic caps.
Won't be an issue.
Vacuuming the system after reassembly will remove any moisture.

 

[Tapps33]

There in lies the problem. I don’t have the plastic caps, and I’ve stashed the car at my parents’ place as I’ve had to move into the city….tiny apartment, no shop. So, it’s gonna sit for a while before I can get back to it.

Of course I’ll vacuum the system down, and I have new seals for it as well. To me, it’s worth the $100-$200 to swap it out, mainly for my peace of mind more so than anything else.

Just curious if anyone has ever ventured over to the “aftermarket” side…because if there is efficiency to be gained….

 

[ebp02]

The driver is not soldered, I replaced mine when I did my swap. I got one on parts geek or something like that.

 

[timc930]

FWIW....I had my system open (lines plugged) for a approx 1 month while I pulled dash to replace my Evap. I pulled several vacuum's and let one hold for 24hrs before I recharged. I did not replace Drier, and AC blows nice and cold, as it did prior to leak in Evaporator.

I replaced Evaporator with a Land Rover part. I typically do not use aftermarket on this car.

 

[Tapps33]

Yeah, I think you’re right…I don’t know if the risk of going aftermarket with this is worth it.

Thanks for the comments, I’ll pull the trigger on a good replacement sometime next week. Gonna be another couple of weeks before I can back at it.

 

[Tapps33]

The driver is not soldered, I replaced mine when I did my swap. I got one on parts geek or something like that.

Hmmm…granted I didn’t 100% check, but it thought it was soldered to the condenser. Maybe there’s a fitting there I didn’t see. If so, perhaps just the drier is in order then.

 

[Tapps33]

I know it's been a hot minute, but I finally got all the "honey-do" projects done at my mom's place and had a few minutes to work on my project again!

So, after our discussions here I decided to "just" buy the charcoal canister and see how things went. Truthfully, with the cooling core out it was very easy! There's one screw holding the canister on the lines, and then the band clamp holding the canister to the radiator core. I went ahead and bought an aftermarket seal kit that seemed to fit just about right for the line o-rings. All in all this should work well, as it's a Mahle canister and I believe the OEM was Mahle...mine only cost like 20 or something like that, vs $70+ for the LR one.