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AC isn’t cold

Discussion in 'Discovery' started by Scanachi, Jul 6, 2020.

  1. Scanachi

    Scanachi Active Member

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    Hey y’all, looking for some input.

    I’ve got a 2003 LR Discovery II and, as of yesterday, my AC doesn’t blow cold.

    It blows... just NOT cold.

    Any DIY options? If so, does it require special tools?

    Also, would 134A refrigerant work?

    How much refrigerant does the AC system hold?

    Thanks!
     
  2. joey

    joey Custom Rover Accessories Staff Member

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    A 2003 will be 134a, No special tools just to attempt to add. There are 2 rules of thought here, one buy a can with a gauge put on the low side of the A/C system turn the vehicle on, turn on the A/C and if the gauge reads low, fill until it shows in the middle of the green on the gauge.

    Rule 2, go to a proper shop and have them check the system, it could be a fuse, a relay or the compressor could be bad, or it could just be low.

    1 - costs around $15-$20
    2 - costs as little as $100 or if major issue up to $3000

    You can try option one and if it works, you are good, if not go to a shop and let them know.

    As far as how much does it hold, if you choose option 1, you can't tell without a very expensive tool that evacuates the system, then weighs the 134a and the adds it back in to the correct amount.
     
  3. mark D

    mark D Full Access Member

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    I just finished charging an AC system on my daughters rig.
    “Symptoms” her AC wasn’t cold like yours. The clutch kept clicking on and off like it was trying but couldn’t get a charge going. Didn’t sound right ether like is was dry until the clutch clicked off. So if it’s not a fuse or mechanical go to the following step.

    Buy a can of AC coolant with the gauge and also a can of sealer for about $8 bucks more. The charge connections On the rig are two different sizes so don’t worry about hooking it up wrong you only have the low side valve “Supplied with the new can”.
    Connect it to the port by just pushing it on it’s a quick connect fitting.
    Turn the AC on high while the engine is running and look at the gauge.
    Is it low or pulsing up and down?
    With the can in the upside down position give it a 30 second shot of R134a. Watch the gauge. It will cycle up high but settle down. Let it run for about a minute. Check the gauge, low cycling up and down? Give it another 30 second shot. Continue until you are right in the middle of the green bar. Let it run for about 5 mins. Is it cold? Now unhook you’re gauge and can by releasing the quick connection. Unscrew the big can and screw the small can of sealer and repeat the previous steps. Empty the sealer into the system it’s not enough to over charge the coolant if you were right in the middle of the green bar.
    Yes for all those that know the sealant expands the seals and could fail later on, but if the AC system is used the seals will stay lubed and it shouldn’t leak back down. I turn my AC on for about 5 mins during the winter just to keep the seals lubed.
     
  4. Scanachi

    Scanachi Active Member

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    Thanks for the insight, Joey and MarkD!

    Y’all rock!
     
  5. Pablo1987

    Pablo1987 New Member

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    Firestone only charges 9.99 to check a/c , check out their website. I took my wife’s ‘10 LR4. The told me the A/C compressor may be weak/Possibly have a leak. i guess it give me a good starting point. I may try Marks idea, sounds like it’s worth a try. Our issue is it doesn’t blow cold in idle anymore. Only blows cold when we are driving. Even then sometimes it’ll get warmer. I saw I could buy a new compressor online around $250. Much better than the $2700 quote firestone gave me.
     
  6. Scanachi

    Scanachi Active Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion, Pablo1987.
     
  7. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    Pablo1987, did you check with both AC gauges to see if the high side is reading too high as well the AC system short cycling? This would point to the expansion valve not operating properly, stuck partically closed and failing. They are cheap while system is opened up.
    As with any AC system unless being rather new is to change out the expansion valve with the dryer once the system has been opened and exposed to the air.
    On adding more R134a, that's a guessing game the proper amount as it takes very little to be under or over charged each resulting in reduced cooling. R134 has a narrow range between under and over charged systems vs ye "ol R12 which you can be under and over charged by a wider amount and still have good cooling.
    Someone mentioned recharge with sealant in it, that's ok if you planned on selling the vehicle right away a patch fix. Must mention most AC shops will not touch a vehicle that has that crap in it as it will damage their recovery system with you getting a $2 to $3K repair bill on their recovery machine.
    Best way to vacuum down, wait 3/4 to 1 hr. checking for any leaks before charging the system again. This time the weighed amount required no guessing games.
    Even static pressure to tempature charts will not show the amount still in they system and only pressute to temp readings. Auto parts store AC items for the public a money maker.

    For under $450 you can purchase a TWO STAGE vacuum pump not a cheaper SINGLE STAGE pump, talking a 5 cfm pump of 1/2 hp not those weak toy units.
    A three hose two gauge (low & high) gauge set just under $80 unless you must have a YELLOW JACKET $265 gauge set. Your daily AC job then splurge.
    Advice, get a three hose gauge set and add a Tee fitting allowing four houses to the gauge set.
    One hose to evacuate, one to charge, one for the low side and one the high side AC system connections.
    Weigh each 12 oz. can as they are not all filled equally, deduct can tare weight plus add 2 oz. remaining in the hoses in the gauge set. Weigh in the vehicle AC spec amount period! 1
    Strsight R134a in 12 oz. cans with the PROPER FITTINGs, 12 oz. to charge hose that has a shutoff valve adapter vs them parts store "El Chespo's that will bleed off your refrigerant while swaping out cans. There goes your refrigerant as well the weight amount measured.
    Before charging time and before evacuating the system it's also a good time to add a litte UV dye additive for future should you develope a AC system leak, easy to locate the problem.

    If your really lucky and have a friend in the AC business that use 30 pound containers of R134a, Walmart has it for $139.99 last checked vs 12 oz. cans. Way cheaper working with 30 lb. containers tan 12 oz. cans.

    Between two 30 lb. containers of R134a plus three 30 lb. R12 i'm set able to charge my personal vehicles requiring both refrigerants.

    Two Ford Escapes (04 & 10) one had a leaking condenser, one 81 Delorean, one 68 Ford F250 pickup plus a 97 528i BMW that a rock punctured the condenser.

    Low on R134a in the 95 Disco after 26 years from date of manufacture use pulling a vaccum check then recharging by weight amount, it blows 37-38*F on a 78*F day at a constant 37 mph speed. DIY evac test and recharge alone with the disco more than paid for the equipment.

    Most parts including OEM besides cheaper and lower quality replacement parts from autohausaz.com. Several times they have beat others in pricing including OEM replacement parts.

    Kozyvacu TA500 two stage 5 cfm vacuum pump that will vac down to 50 microns, way lower than required for clunky automotive AC systems. Recall $189 last spring purchase.

    DIY way cheaper saving myself thousands of dollars plus I own the equipment for future AC repair and recharge jobs.......~~=o&o>......
     

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