Actual Water/Oil Temps

[timc930]

I decided to monitor my actual water and oil temps while on a trip from Chas to Boston a few weeks ago using Veepeak and Fusion. My water temps fluctuated from 205-226 (hitting 226 once, briefly, remaining mostly at 219 at cruise. It did cruise at times in the 205-210 range though. The temp would actually come down to around 210ish when climbing, then drop down to 205ish going down the hills then back to 219 when cruising. Oil temp remained around 212-220, and spent more time in the 220 range then I had hoped. I can't see going 14K oil change intervals with this kind of oil temp, so I am glad I do 5K intervals. I also wonder if the longer intervals with this kind of oil temp contribute to the TC/Guide failure. Approx 70K miles.

I also monitored the Water Temp on my 2005 L322, and it cruises at 226.4, creeping up to 228 and has actually touched 236 once or twice in traffic. It does not lower when climbing like the LR4 does, as it remains constant at 226-228 when climbing, then down to 219-220ish when going down hills. This engine has 230K with Chains/Guides and VANOS all replaced around 180K.

Factory TEMP gauges in both trucks never left dead center Normal position in any of the fluctuations from 205-236...

 

[Stuart Barnes]

Your temps look similar to those on my Lr. I’m glad you point out the oil temp, most people forget about that, and the fact oil takes almost as much heat out of an engine as the coolant.
I’m a 5k oil guy myself.

 

[ktm525]

Oil temp is not a concern. In fact you want at least 220 to burn off moisture and contaminants. Good synthetics can easily handle 300F so no danger in scorching the oil. More issues with oil that never gets hot.

 

[timc930]

Oil temp is not a concern. In fact you want at least 220 to burn off moisture and contaminants. Good synthetics can easily handle 300F so no danger in scorching the oil. More issues with oil that never gets hot.

Boiling point is around 212. Based on conversations with Andial engineer years ago, they like to see their engines run around 176-180. Nice to hit 212 to burn off moisture, but I just don't want to sit at 220....regardless, I change at 5K so I am not to worried about it.

 

[ktm525]

years ago... Oil viscosity is spec'd at around the boiling point of 100C so either side of this is fine but the engine is most efficient near the boiling point. Keeping the engine temp lower is going to increase the acids sitting around in the oil and it will eat up your TBN quickly. Since you change at 8k kms as you say this is not a concern. (can you Americans please join the rest of the world and convert to metric?) please lol). Perhaps I am still paranoid from the sludgy engine debacle from the last 20 years or so. The temps in the valvetrain just didn't get hot enough. I also drive around in the freezing cold and at -30 I appreciate a warm running engine lol.

 

[f1racer328]

I’d like more people to post their temps as well.

I was towing the other day (4400 lbs) and on the highway around 65-70 mph I was running 230 coolant and 230 oil temp.

Merging on the highway I briefly hit 235 on the coolant and 240 on the oil. At 235 coolant temp the air conditioning kicks off and the coolant temp gauge on the car starts to move up quickly.

Note that the ambient temp was 118 f. when it’s 100 or below I normally don’t see anything higher than 220.

Not towing in the same temps (118 f) I hit about 220/220 max.

Towing up a grade on the same hot days also results in **** hot temps. Wish the coolant would run slightly cooler.

My radiator cap says 205 kpa which is about 30 PSI, so boiling temp on the coolant should be about 280f. No idea what the real danger zone is on these cars for coolant temp. Oil temps I’m not worried about, I’ve seen much higher on high performance cars.

 

[timc930]

years ago... Oil viscosity is spec'd at around the boiling point of 100C so either side of this is fine but the engine is most efficient near the boiling point. Keeping the engine temp lower is going to increase the acids sitting around in the oil and it will eat up your TBN quickly. Since you change at 8k kms as you say this is not a concern. (can you Americans please join the rest of the world and convert to metric?) please lol). Perhaps I am still paranoid from the sludgy engine debacle from the last 20 years or so. The temps in the valvetrain just didn't get hot enough. I also drive around in the freezing cold and at -30 I appreciate a warm running engine lol.

Good points. My discussions with Andial were back in the late 80's, and I was running M1 then, so I am sure BIG improvements were made. I use AMSOIL in my 930 and L322, so I am really not to concerned about oil temps hitting 220-230 in either of those cars. I just don't know the quality of the JLR Spec Castrol that I use in the LR4. Working on the metric!

 

[ktm525]

Running that amsoil you have no worries

 

[timc930]

Running that amsoil you have no worries

yeah, I wish they spec'd it for the 2014-16 SCV6 LR4's.

 

[timc930]

FWIW, I found out today, that the Coolant Temp gauge does not move until the coolant temp reaches 237, then it goes up to 3/4. I had some air in the coolant system today when filling, and as the temp approached 237 the gauge moved up to just about 2/3 before I shut the engine off to let it cool and bleed the system.