ftillier
Full Access Member
When the voss connector on my front block was leaking it was super easy to spot with soapy water from a spray bottle. I just had to snug it a little and that was it. Hopefully yours is the same.
Air Suspension head scratcher
- Thread starter Tapps33
- Start date
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I agree, the RR seems to be the culprit, I just plotted the data in Excel and see this:
I definitely think that the RR is pulling down the RF and the LR, here are the height changes vs time:
It looks like after three hours the rear is already dropping but only by 1/8".
Checking that the RR pipe and connection to the valve is going to be interesting, so things it could be:
- Airspring
- Pipe fitting to airspring (o'ring?)
- Pipe
- Pipe to rear valve (o'ring?)
- Leak internal to the rear valve (so venting to the gallery), does the gallery pressure rise overnight)
Keep us posted and good luck with the weather and not freezing!
I definitely think that the RR is pulling down the RF and the LR, here are the height changes vs time:
It looks like after three hours the rear is already dropping but only by 1/8".
Checking that the RR pipe and connection to the valve is going to be interesting, so things it could be:
- Airspring
- Pipe fitting to airspring (o'ring?)
- Pipe
- Pipe to rear valve (o'ring?)
- Leak internal to the rear valve (so venting to the gallery), does the gallery pressure rise overnight)
Keep us posted and good luck with the weather and not freezing!
Tapps33
Full Access Member
Wow! This is why I love this forum! Although, I feel like a complete slacker in that I don't have more data points to populate the graph!
I'm tearing it apart this morning, I'll try and take pictures/videos and get them posted when I'm done....really hoping it's easy to spot, but experience has taught me I'm not out of the woods yet!
I've just been through 4months of the same, I realize this isn't as long as your experience but I'm sort of OCD when it comes to these things! I don't like not knowing!... Anyway, keep us posted, I know for sure that that RR to valve is a pain in the a** to follow. Good luck.
Tapps33
Full Access Member
Well, I got her up in the air, and snoopy'd everything I could get to. As @Longtrail said, it's a giant PITA to get to and see anything under there.
Long story short, I couldn't find any leaks. I tested the voss fitting on the air strut, the air strut itself, and as much of the line and valve block as I could...but I could only see one of the Voss fittings on the valve block. The other 2 were behind sheet metal and facing away from me.
I do have a confession to make though. I thought I had replaced the rear valve block when I did the struts and compressor in 2019, but when I looked at its location, I am fairly confident I never touched that one. I must have planned on doing it, or wanted to do it, but never did....sorry, didn't mean to mislead anyone. With that said, I would argue, as the rear valve block is still the original 2010 part, and it's seen 2 compressors eat themselves, its seals have failed and it's an internal leak. Granted, I can't see 75% of the RR air line as it's up and under seemingly "everything." However, given the know failure point of the valve blocks, I think I'm going to swap it out and then see what happens. The question is whether I just order an air tube to run from the valve block to the RR and replace it while I'm in there. Cause I gotta be honest, the valve block is tucked way the heck in there....I'm not sure how I'm going to get it swapped. Sooooo.....I only want to remove it once!
Long story short, I couldn't find any leaks. I tested the voss fitting on the air strut, the air strut itself, and as much of the line and valve block as I could...but I could only see one of the Voss fittings on the valve block. The other 2 were behind sheet metal and facing away from me.
I do have a confession to make though. I thought I had replaced the rear valve block when I did the struts and compressor in 2019, but when I looked at its location, I am fairly confident I never touched that one. I must have planned on doing it, or wanted to do it, but never did....sorry, didn't mean to mislead anyone. With that said, I would argue, as the rear valve block is still the original 2010 part, and it's seen 2 compressors eat themselves, its seals have failed and it's an internal leak. Granted, I can't see 75% of the RR air line as it's up and under seemingly "everything." However, given the know failure point of the valve blocks, I think I'm going to swap it out and then see what happens. The question is whether I just order an air tube to run from the valve block to the RR and replace it while I'm in there. Cause I gotta be honest, the valve block is tucked way the heck in there....I'm not sure how I'm going to get it swapped. Sooooo.....I only want to remove it once!
txfromwi
Full Access Member
Not that I have ever needed to be back there, but maybe splice around the old block valve (abandon in place) and mount the new one somewhere more accessible.
Tapps33
Full Access Member
Yeah, I was thinking the spare was gonna have to come out....may even need to remove the compressor just to give myself a little extra room. I have heard "small hands" are a required tool....in which case I could be screwed! LOL!
I did decide to pull the trigger on a new air line for the valve to RR run. (there's $163 I'll never get back) Again, I'm pretty sure the valve block is the culprit, but if I'm in there..... although, now that I think about it, I'm getting ready to pull the body off and swap the engine in a month or two, maybe I'll just swap the hose then.
I did decide to pull the trigger on a new air line for the valve to RR run. (there's $163 I'll never get back) Again, I'm pretty sure the valve block is the culprit, but if I'm in there..... although, now that I think about it, I'm getting ready to pull the body off and swap the engine in a month or two, maybe I'll just swap the hose then.
On my 2012 LR4 taking the spare out didn't really help me as the exhaust portion of the suspension system was in the way (I didn't know at the time that the white and black plastic cylinder was the exhaust for the suspension)... Anyway, what I did was remove the valve block from it's mounting position (the three rubber grommets), remove the hose that faces you and then rotate the whole valve block to get access to the rear hoses. It took a long time and lots of cursing! I was thinking that re-assembly was going to be brutal (getting the threads started) but it wasn't too bad! One issue is that the stiction/friction in the connector wants to rotate the nut in the opposite direction to the way you want it to go. I used a little silicon to try and ease this! I didn't replace my valves, I just installed new o'rings and this made the world of difference to the overnight sagging. I think you're getting closer 
.
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Tapps33
Full Access Member
FYI, just waiting on parts to arrive.....
