Air Suspension intake filter replacement
- Thread starter Ladric
- Start date
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- air suspension
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DirtyHal
Full Access Member
There's a few write-ups and videos out there on how to remove the air compressor. The filter is located on the compressor and *should* be replaceable, depending on the type of compressor you have. I know you can on the hitachi's, not sure about the AMK's.
Have you traced it back to the compressor and are sure it's not one of the valve blocks?
Have you traced it back to the compressor and are sure it's not one of the valve blocks?
I believe the filter is on the end of a hose that connects into the compressor. The compressor is right in front of the rear, driver-side wheel. I think the filter is up above the wheel well somewhere.
I'd be surprised if that's your problem, though. How many miles on your 11? Has the compressor ever been changed before?
I'd be surprised if that's your problem, though. How many miles on your 11? Has the compressor ever been changed before?
DirtyHal
Full Access Member
That's right, I was thinking of the drier Filter. I would be surprised if the culprit wasn't a complete compressor failure if a code is being thrown. If it's just sagging its probably the valve blocks.
Here is the IID info:
C1A20-64 (6C) Pressure increases too slowly when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausible failure.
I think its the original compressor and reservoir. I get the warning about once a month or if I change the height (its set an inch higher at Normal so I don't change the height often).
Just turned over 100,000 this week.
The truck does not seem to sink over time. Is sat for more than a week and not had an issue and the parking spot is not level.
I don't think its the filter as it is suppose to be inside the back access panels away from dust and dirt but that's the cheapest fix
Got this info from Gap Diagnostics about the code:
C1A20-64 Pressure Increase Too Slow When Filling Reservoir - Signal plausibility failure
Suspension air supply unit failure
Air suspension system air leak
Air suspension intake filter blocked/restricted
Corner valve stuck open (mechanically)
Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, test the operation of the suspension air supply unit (vehicle ride height interface)
Refer to the relevant section of the workshop manual and test the air suspension system for air leaks
Check the air suspension intake filter for blockages/restrictions
Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, test the operation of the corner valves (vehicle ride height interface)
C1A20-64 (6C) Pressure increases too slowly when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausible failure.
I think its the original compressor and reservoir. I get the warning about once a month or if I change the height (its set an inch higher at Normal so I don't change the height often).
Just turned over 100,000 this week.
The truck does not seem to sink over time. Is sat for more than a week and not had an issue and the parking spot is not level.
I don't think its the filter as it is suppose to be inside the back access panels away from dust and dirt but that's the cheapest fix
Got this info from Gap Diagnostics about the code:
C1A20-64 Pressure Increase Too Slow When Filling Reservoir - Signal plausibility failure
Suspension air supply unit failure
Air suspension system air leak
Air suspension intake filter blocked/restricted
Corner valve stuck open (mechanically)
Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, test the operation of the suspension air supply unit (vehicle ride height interface)
Refer to the relevant section of the workshop manual and test the air suspension system for air leaks
Check the air suspension intake filter for blockages/restrictions
Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, test the operation of the corner valves (vehicle ride height interface)
I bet it's your compressor. That said, search for that code on the LR3 forum for some ideas.
The good news is that changing the compressor is probably #1 on the list of jobs that sound really hard but are actually pretty easy. The bad news is that new compressors aren't cheap.
Do you have a GAP tool? There's a good chance your '11 has a Hitachi, and the best compressors are the AMK ones. You'll need to reprogram your ECU if you change, though. You can do that with the GAP tool.
I think Lucky 8 has the best prices on compressors.
The good news is that changing the compressor is probably #1 on the list of jobs that sound really hard but are actually pretty easy. The bad news is that new compressors aren't cheap.
Do you have a GAP tool? There's a good chance your '11 has a Hitachi, and the best compressors are the AMK ones. You'll need to reprogram your ECU if you change, though. You can do that with the GAP tool.
I think Lucky 8 has the best prices on compressors.
thanks @ryanji
Yes, I have a GAP tool. I have been watching some video's on the process. Seems a little tricky on the LR3 but maybe our LR4 is easier.
The parts they said were tricky weren't really that tricky if you have the right tools. I think I used a box-end wrench on that top bolt on the bracket that holds the compressor to the frame. Can't remember. Regardless, i bought a few fancy swivel, bendy socket extensions in preparation for that bolt that I didn't even use.
DirtyHal
Full Access Member
Check out this thread for some tips: https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/some-suspension-fault-codes-this-morning.40813/page-9#post-212893
Also watch the powerfuluk video on YouTube.
