Anyone ever removed the rear license plate bracket?

Discussion in 'LR4' started by ryanjl, Jul 11, 2018.

  1. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

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    Couldn't find anything on a search.

    I have a license plate frame from my dealer that I decided to remove after it's gotten tattered and worn. Went to unscrew the license plate, and the screws took quite a bit of torque before they finally started spinning. Unfortunately, spin is all they did as they did not come out.

    So now I believe whatever nuts or threaded inserts that mate with the screws are spinning inside the license plate bracket. To get to those, I believe I'll need to remove the bracket. To do that, I believe I'll need to get at it from inside the tailgate somehow.

    Before I do that, though, I thought I'd check to see if anyone here had a similar problem.
     
  2. Schlepper

    Schlepper Member

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    Two screws from the plate side.

    9246F104-D095-4CA7-9019-499B709B95FA.png
     
  3. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

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    Well this is going to get interesting. Not sure how to get to those without removing the license plate, which I can't seem to remove without removing the license plate bracket.

    It's a modern day Catch-22!
     
  4. Schlepper

    Schlepper Member

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    The threads on the bracket are brass inserts in the plastic. You could probably pry it off.
     
  5. TheWidup

    TheWidup Full Access Member

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    Lesson here: always use plastic screws for license plate brackets.
     
  6. cperez

    cperez Full Access Member

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    I had the exact same situation with my 2011. It was a pain because the captive (spinning) screw was all rusted and unsightly and I couldn't take it off to replace it. When I traded it for my current '13, the guys at the dealership had to muscle the plate off with visegrips and fortunately didn't destroy the hole in the plate since I was transferring my tags.

    Is it legal to drill a hole in a license plate? Maybe that would reveal the underlying screw that holds the bracket on. Bending the plate to get to the bracket screws would be a bit too brute force for my taste. Good luck!
     
  7. TheWidup

    TheWidup Full Access Member

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    Kinda funny because when I picked up my used 13 they had to replace the bracket because they couldn't get the screws to grab for the plate. That took 30 sweaty minutes of them freaking out because I said if they didn't fix/replace it I might not be leaving with it. (lol like I was going to try to find another gem like this elsewhere)
     
  8. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    I just replaced the bracket on my LR4 yesterday. The captive brass nuts had been patched with epoxy by the PO, who may not have realized the entire bracket can be replaced with new for ~$30. I was able to get it apart by applying outward pressure while turning the screws. Worst case, pry outward and break it apart (after you have a new bracket in hand!).

    Anyway - once you get it apart and have the new bracket mounted, apply anti-seize to the threads, and use stainless steel mounting bolts/screws. Stainless keeps them from rusting, and anti-seize does what it sounds like. Or use the white plastic thread protectors that come with the new bracket.

    A related issue is length of the bolts / screws. If not using any frame or cover, 10mm is the max length for the top 2, otherwise they'll poke through the back side, hit the tailgate and mess up the paint. If using a plate frame or cover you may need a bit longer than 10mm. If you can't get the exact length, use a longer bolt/screw with spacer washers as needed. Bench-test to make sure they don't poke through, before mounting it on the tailgate. I used a clear plastic cover and 12mm-length stainless, button-head / Allen-head screws. Think they are M6x1.0 thread.

    Part number for the plastic bracket is LR019327, got mine on eBay for ~$28 delivered, came from a Rover dealership.

    :thrasher:
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
  9. cperez

    cperez Full Access Member

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    Good point. I learned this as well when upgrading the '13's bracket screws to stainless. Hadn't thought of using Allen head screws, though. Good idea.
     
  10. sonicpix

    sonicpix Member

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    I had the same problem .one screw came out but the other didn't. I was able to take the mount completely off and drilled out the screw. I replaced it with a similar screw I had and used silicone sealant to hold it in place . I will figure I may have to remove it in the future so epoxy seemed to strong to me. Worked ok.
     

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