Approaching end of lease...decision time

[TCM75]

Hi all, my 4 year lease will be up in mid-April. From the beginning I felt the LR4 would be a keeper but since I had little experience with the brand/reliability, the lease through my company was a safe way to test the waters.

I have a '15 Lux HD and love it; perfect vehicle for my daily "missions". My main complaint is the dealership experience so I can't fault the vehicle. I've added sliders, recently put on a fresh set of WRG3s, and have finally, FINALLY, after years, figured out how to get real, legit mudflaps mounted (separate post to come later).

I'm getting ready to make a dealer appointment while it's still under warranty. At the same time I know the salesman is trying to get me into a D5 (good luck!) and they will also give me a quote to make mine a CPO.

Here is my list so far:

1) cold start - tick, tick, tick noise - possibly tensioners; I think there is a recent post on a similar issue

2) accelerator pedal - the first 1/8" to 1/4" of movement does absolutely nothing. If I was able to accurately measure it's probably 1/8" or less, but it's really annoying. Not sure if it's something that has gradually gotten worse or was always like that.

3) excess driveline lash - I have 43,000 miles and I have heard the ZF transmission has a great reputation. It has been good but I would say in the last 12 months or so the driveline lash has gradually increased. It is noticeable when letting off throttle and then coming back on - think of slowing for a yield sign and then accelerating. Is this something that a fluid change could help resolve? The service schedule doesn't call for any drivetrain fluid changes (except engine oil) until 75,000 miles (that's for the rear diff and transfer case) and I don't even see an ATF fluid change on the schedule. Honestly this is really the only item that gives me the most hesitation about keeping the truck. I can see the dealer saying that everything is "normal" or "within spec".

4) brakes - If anyone has the specs for rotor thickness, that would be helpful, as I know the dealer loves to tell me I need brakes when I don't.

Thanks,

Thomas

 

[ryanjl]

1. Tensioners shouldn't be an issue on a '15, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to ask. Could be the fan.

2. No idea. Maybe just slack that's developed over time?

3. Sounds like it could need a fluid change and the mechatronics unit sleeves and seal changed, but this probably won't be under warranty unless you complain really hard. Land Rover doesn't recommend the ATF fluid change until around 125k miles, if at all, but that's more Rover nonsense. Most have agreed that 80k miles is when you need to think about it. Yours may need it sooner?

 

[cperez]

2) accelerator pedal - the first 1/8" to 1/4" of movement does absolutely nothing. If I was able to accurately measure it's probably 1/8" or less, but it's really annoying. Not sure if it's something that has gradually gotten worse or was always like that.

Well-known issue. This is simply the difference between the 5.0L V8 and the SC6.

Naw, I'm just jamming you. I hope you get everything fixed and can slide into a nice CPO situation and keep Rovering!

 

[scott schmerge]

You’ll want to do a fluid

Hi all, my 4 year lease will be up in mid-April. From the beginning I felt the LR4 would be a keeper but since I had little experience with the brand/reliability, the lease through my company was a safe way to test the waters.

I have a '15 Lux HD and love it; perfect vehicle for my daily "missions". My main complaint is the dealership experience so I can't fault the vehicle. I've added sliders, recently put on a fresh set of WRG3s, and have finally, FINALLY, after years, figured out how to get real, legit mudflaps mounted (separate post to come later).

I'm getting ready to make a dealer appointment while it's still under warranty. At the same time I know the salesman is trying to get me into a D5 (good luck!) and they will also give me a quote to make mine a CPO.

Here is my list so far:

1) cold start - tick, tick, tick noise - possibly tensioners; I think there is a recent post on a similar issue

2) accelerator pedal - the first 1/8" to 1/4" of movement does absolutely nothing. If I was able to accurately measure it's probably 1/8" or less, but it's really annoying. Not sure if it's something that has gradually gotten worse or was always like that.

3) excess driveline lash - I have 43,000 miles and I have heard the ZF transmission has a great reputation. It has been good but I would say in the last 12 months or so the driveline lash has gradually increased. It is noticeable when letting off throttle and then coming back on - think of slowing for a yield sign and then accelerating. Is this something that a fluid change could help resolve? The service schedule doesn't call for any drivetrain fluid changes (except engine oil) until 75,000 miles (that's for the rear diff and transfer case) and I don't even see an ATF fluid change on the schedule. Honestly this is really the only item that gives me the most hesitation about keeping the truck. I can see the dealer saying that everything is "normal" or "within spec".

4) brakes - If anyone has the specs for rotor thickness, that would be helpful, as I know the dealer loves to tell me I need brakes when I don't.

Thanks,

Thomas

You should not have tensioner problem as they updated design in 2012. The tick tick tick, I can’t speak to. Mine is a 2010 and tensioners are good, motor does have a normal very slight ticking noise but I’m assured it is normal noise by the three different independents I’ve taken it to. (Paranoid I guess)

You’ll want to do a trans service. Should be done at 60k (although they say lifetime fluid, that’s not the case). New fluid should cure any woes.

I can’t speak to the other questions. Maybe others can weigh in?

 

[TCM75]

Thanks for the replies. I should elaborate that on #2 I have a feeling that, if it's anything, the "dead spot" could be the wearing contacts of a potentiometer. I just had to replace the *** in my Vitamix, which got me thinking more about it. I don't know for a fact but I'm 99% sure we have an electronic throttle and no cable.

 

[ryanjl]

Thanks for the replies. I should elaborate that on #2 I have a feeling that, if it's anything, the "dead spot" could be the wearing contacts of a potentiometer. I just had to replace the *** in my Vitamix, which got me thinking more about it. I don't know for a fact but I'm 99% sure we have an electronic throttle and no cable.

It used to be like that with the LR3.

I think what's happened is the LR4 is running through the last of the people who are used to new cars with no issues, but who also have no mechanical knowledge nor knowledge of the concept of "preventative maintenance." Once the LR4 trickles on down the used market to people who know how to spin a wrench and spend a little money here to save a lot of money there, people will realize how reliable they actually are.

 

[scott schmerge]

Thanks for the replies. I should elaborate that on #2 I have a feeling that, if it's anything, the "dead spot" could be the wearing contacts of a potentiometer. I just had to replace the *** in my Vitamix, which got me thinking more about it. I don't know for a fact but I'm 99% sure we have an electronic throttle and no cable.

These are definitely drive by wire. No cable. If concerned, make a stink about it with the dealer while it’s under warranty

 

[Quijote]

4) brakes - If anyone has the specs for rotor thickness, that would be helpful, as I know the dealer loves to tell me I need brakes when I don't.

Per my thread: https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/changing-rear-brakes-now-some-questions.28728/#post-171742

...the fronts (on my 2013) are marked as min rotor thickness of 27mm and the rears 19mm. But also, per that same thread, in my case, that equates to about 3 sets of pads.

 

[Waterndirt]

My 2015 doesn't experience any issues you listed except for chewing through pads and rotors.

I'm on my 3rd set of front and rear pads and second sets of rotors, front and back

Odometer reads: 41,000.

We live in SoCal with plenty of hills, starts and stops.

My only transmission complaint is that it will typically holds onto 1 gear longer than it needs to when starting up and proceeding down a hill.

 

[cperez]

My only transmission complaint is that it will typically holds onto 1 gear longer than it needs to when starting up and proceeding down a hill.

Interesting because mine does the same thing but usually only when cold. I don't mind it because I'm on a private drive that slopes down as it comes to the main road. I always feel like the engine compression helps me save my brakes when I leave the house every morning. It only lasts a few seconds though.