Auxiliary chain

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Jhgrn3

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Does anybody have any experience in how to change the auxiliary chain. I can’t find it listed anywhere or any online videos. I am doing the timing chains now and the other chain is in the kit. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

jlglr4

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I believe you’re referring to the chain that drives the hp fuel pump camshaft and oil pump. Should be in the section of the manual dealing with the fuel pump camshaft. This video discusses the timing aspect of it:


I haven’t actually done it myself, so no tips to offer. Please post back and let us know how it goes.
 

rolledover

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You have to pull the oil pan which requires removing the engine. Just went through this same situation and figured I’d change it while doing timing chains. After reading the workshop manual on removing the oil pan I decided I’d leave it be. Unfortunate since if it was just designed slightly different it would be possible to change while doing the primary timing chains.
 

Jhgrn3

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Like rolled over said it involves oil pan removal which involves engine removal, so I checked the timing marks, found them to be good and left it alone.
I do have another issue that maybe somebody can shed a little light on for me. I am always in the habit of lining up the timing marks before I disassemble a chain or belt unless it has already broken. When I set this up according to the procedure the marks weren’t even close. The truck was running ok just noisy so I had no reason to think they had jumped. I rotated the engine about 20 times and it was different each time. Miraculously on one turn everything lined up perfectly. I locked it in that position and disassembled it. I installed the new kit and adjusted according to the manual. Video says to rotate crankshat 2 turns and recheck marks. Not even close. I stopped after about 12 rotations, different each time. Any thoughts?
 

jlglr4

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I believe you do two rotations and then confirm that the cam and crank locks can be reinserted, which confirms that the timing is correct. That seems to be what the manual said, if I recall correctly. Someone else asked this same question in the range rover forum the other day, and one of the other members responded to the effect that the timing chain marks will not line up after two rotations of the crank. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/misfire-after-timing-chain-job-5-0.43234/#post-229712. That sounds right to me, and seems to be confirmed by your original experience that lining up the marks in first place took about twenty rotations. But I haven’t done the timing chain myself, so maybe someone else will confirm as well.
 

jlglr4

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Just to satisfy myself on this issue, I pulled up the pick of an LR4 timing chain kit. Assuming the pic is correct, the crank sprocket has 19 teeth which I believe requires a cam sprocket with 38 teeth (to keep the 2:1 ratio). The timing chain appears to have 70 links. So, the cam and crank sprockets should be in the same position every 2 rotations, but the chain will only have moved 38 links. Furthermore, when the chain is back in its original position (3.68+ turns of the crank), the cam and crank sprockets will not be in the original position. Eventually, everything will line up again - but it will be many, many revolutions later if the numbers I have above are correct.
 

Jhgrn3

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your math seems correct. Just Leary now. Do I trust my original setting or do it over and recheck with the locks. If that is all correct than in theory alternate roations of the crank should allow the locks to go in places. Seems like a better way to check than starting over. Thoughts?
 

jlglr4

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I think that’s what I would do. If those locks go in seems like everything should be lined up properly.
 

Localschauss

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Can the aux chain tensioner be replaced thought the crank shaft access location? My aux chain seems to very lose and the tensioner doesn't seem to provide any pressure either. I made a short video of it here:
 
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