Ok, I've been battling battery issues for quite some time. If you don't know, I'm on my 4th battery.
This time I got a Duracell Platinum AGM H8 850CCA 92Ah. I decided to change the battery type with my IIDTool in the CCF settings under Body Control and Battery type.
I seriously tried all of them and ran through the battery reset too. Each time, the truck would fire up and start at 13.8V and then drop to 12.0V-12.8V. I left the setting in the CCF at H8HD 900CCA and drove 25 miles and the whole time the it read 12.0V-12.5V.
I even emailed Pat at GAP Diagnostics and he pretty much said that I'm SOL and indirectly pointed to go back to a flood battery.
Long story short, if you have these issues or go to an AGM battery this is how I fixed my issue and now it reads a full 14.xV. While the truck is running, remove the plug connected to the BMS on the negative cable, wait 10 seconds, plug it back in, and check voltage. Worked for me and now I'm getting 14.5V. I'm assuming the BMS reset from the IIDTool helps it relearn the Amp draw and tries to recalibrate the alternator's output to charge the battery, but by removing/reseating the BMS sensor cable it interrupts the signal and ultimately resets change in signal. That's just my guess.
Hopefully this helps someone with battery issues. I just did this and I'll update this after a week or so.
This time I got a Duracell Platinum AGM H8 850CCA 92Ah. I decided to change the battery type with my IIDTool in the CCF settings under Body Control and Battery type.
I seriously tried all of them and ran through the battery reset too. Each time, the truck would fire up and start at 13.8V and then drop to 12.0V-12.8V. I left the setting in the CCF at H8HD 900CCA and drove 25 miles and the whole time the it read 12.0V-12.5V.
I even emailed Pat at GAP Diagnostics and he pretty much said that I'm SOL and indirectly pointed to go back to a flood battery.
Long story short, if you have these issues or go to an AGM battery this is how I fixed my issue and now it reads a full 14.xV. While the truck is running, remove the plug connected to the BMS on the negative cable, wait 10 seconds, plug it back in, and check voltage. Worked for me and now I'm getting 14.5V. I'm assuming the BMS reset from the IIDTool helps it relearn the Amp draw and tries to recalibrate the alternator's output to charge the battery, but by removing/reseating the BMS sensor cable it interrupts the signal and ultimately resets change in signal. That's just my guess.
Hopefully this helps someone with battery issues. I just did this and I'll update this after a week or so.