Bleeding coolant woes...... help needed!

[Mozambique]

Just replaced crossover pipe and heater manifold pipe.
Now I am having a hell of a time trying to bleed the system. Did not add coolant to front crossover pipe via bleed valve = mistake. Did raise front hose off crossover and added as much coolant as I could before reconnecting.
Have expansion tank bleed valve open and the one on the metal pipe near battery. Engine warm and heater on. Blowing semi warm. Bleed valve by battery is hissing like a steam train. Expansion tank bleed valve hissing with coolant occasionally coming out so keep opening it and closing it.
Engine temp keeps rising scarily high, so I shut off and cycle repeats. Been at it 2hrs. Obvs air still in system but taking forever to clear.
Thoughts???
Need to keep at it or am I doing something wrong?
Coolant level in expansion tank was near top of cap (due to air in system), now an inch above upperfill level so seem to have vented some air.

 

[Mozambique]

2010 LR4 btw

 

[jlglr4]

This is the manual bleed method in the service manual (2015, but should be same as for the 2010), which is what I did:

(1) Get the coolant reservoir free and raise it up about 1.5”. You can’t raise it up much, but it doesn’t take much. Just need the rim higher than the highest bleed point. I think I lifted it a bit, and just put something underneath it to hold it up. Manual says to remove the headlight to get the reservoir free, but I don’t think that’s necessary.

(2) Open all four bleed points. There is one on the front crossover (plug), one near the firewall, one on the tube leaving the top of the radiator, and one on the reservoir itself.

(3) Fill the reservoir all the way up and watch for coolant at the first bleed point (front crossover). Once that starts bleeding, cap it.

(4) Keep filling until you see coolant at the second bleed point near the firewall. Close that bleed point.

(5) Close the bleeder on the reservoir. You now have just the radiator tube bleed open.

(6) Start and run the engine. Continue to top with coolant and watch for coolant at the radiator tube bleed point. Once it bleeds, close it.

(7) Turn the motor off and wait at least a minute. Top up the coolant if needed.

(8) Turn the heater controls (front and rear) to maximum and restart the car.

(9) Hold the RPMs at 2000 until the coolant level in the expansion tank drops.

(10) Increase to 3500 RPM until hot air is emitted from front and rear face vents. Keep an eye on the coolant level and keep topping up a couple inches above the cold fill range. Also watch your temp gauge - make sure something isn’t going awry.

(11) Let it idle until the coolant level stabilizes - hot air should still be coming out of the vents.

(12) That’s it. Shut it off and reinstall the reservoir. Top it up just above the cold fill if its not already there and check it frequently for the first few drives.

 

[jlglr4]

Its usually the front radiator bleed point that is overlooked. And, if your engine is too hot, let it cool down some before you start the procedure again.

 

[Mozambique]

Guys, thanks!
Had a look and can't see anything looking like a bleed valve on tube leaving radiator or on pipes near firewall?
Any further details to help me ID them much appreciated?

 

[jlglr4]

Pics below. Maybe you don’t have them on the pre-2014 models?

 

[Mozambique]

Thanks!
It has the one in your 2nd pic towards the back of the engine, one on the crossover pipe and on the expansion tank. Yet to find one on any pipes near the radiator.

 

[Justin Allen]

There’s not one on the V8s. Only the three you mentioned. Do you have a radiator pressure tester?

Radiator Pressure Tester Kit

Amazing deals on this Radiator Pressure Tester Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Mozambique]

Thanks for confirming only three. Radiator pressure tester? - no. Why would I need one?

 

[Mozambique]

Did Jlgir4's procedure with the 3 bleed valves. Worked like a charm!
Thanks guys, you totally rock!!