Bleeding cooling system

[Jeffry Johnson]

I have a 2011 Land Rover LR4 HSE I'm having problems bleeding the system I've tried about everything I need some help please

 

[scott schmerge]

I have a 2011 Land Rover LR4 HSE I'm having problems bleeding the system I've tried about everything I need some help please

There’s a bleeder on top of the front crossover pipe, on on the expansion tank and one on the passenger side to the right of the battery compartment. Open the bleeder on the crossover pipe before starting engine and pour coolant til full. Cap off the crossover bleeder valve.

Unscrew other two bleeder screws one to two full turns. Start engine. Once engine warms and thermostat opens the coolant will start circulating. This will push air out the bleeder screws. Once coolant starts flowing through bleeder screws all air is out. Reseal two bleeder screws and you should be all set.

 

[Jeffry Johnson]

I will try that and see what happens.Thanks !!

 

[scott schmerge]

Photos of both bleeder screws attached. The bleeder valve/fill point I can’t get a photo of right now as it is under the air box on the front of the engine. It sits above the water pump.

 

[Jeffry Johnson]

Hi Scott. Well I used the Air Lift technique and got all the air out. It held a good pressure at 15psi for one half hour. Put the vacuum to it.Pull down and held for one half hour. Sucked up anti-freeze right to the "full cold" line. Ran it and still only get heat when driving. Cold air at idle. Temp gauge reads normal. Not giving up on it,but what next?

 

[scott schmerge]

Hi Scott. Well I used the Air Lift technique and got all the air out. It held a good pressure at 15psi for one half hour. Put the vacuum to it.Pull down and held for one half hour. Sucked up anti-freeze right to the "full cold" line. Ran it and still only get heat when driving. Cold air at idle. Temp gauge reads normal. Not giving up on it,but what next?

Not sure I understand. You’re holding pressure and it’s not overheating correct?

Are you not getting heat (heater core airlock)? Just trying to understand the issue.

What repair did you do to lose coolant? Or just a drain and refill?

 

[BBLR3]

I do know when that top bleeder breaks you get an amazing fountain of hot colorful antifreeze spraying everywhere.

*Did you engage the rear heating as well. get both of them going.

 

[scott schmerge]

I do know when that top bleeder breaks you get an amazing fountain of hot colorful antifreeze spraying everywhere.

*Did you engage the rear heating as well. get both of them going.

Been there, done that too. Just the other day, in fact!

 

[Jeffry Johnson]

What I have done so far to this point is replace the thermostat replace the water pump. pressure tested at to make sure I did not have a leak somewhere that came up negative refilled the antifreeze .still I have no heat at idle only when I drive .no heat at all in the back cold air blows. I did blow out the heater core nothing really came out drunk wise.

 

[scott schmerge]

What I have done so far to this point is replace the thermostat replace the water pump. pressure tested at to make sure I did not have a leak somewhere that came up negative refilled the antifreeze .still I have no heat at idle only when I drive .no heat at all in the back cold air blows. I did blow out the heater core nothing really came out drunk wise.

When engine is running do you feel the water pipe at the back of the engine (the one pictured) getting hot?

If so, that water pipe is connected to the heater core line and warm air should blow. If it’s not hot to the touch you likely still have airlock and should open the bleed valve. You want water and air to come out until it’s just water. Careful with the screw. It may break on you if it’s old. They get brittle. Mine just broke this week.

If you’re not getting air out of that valve and the bleed valve on the expansion tank, I’m at a loss.

I’m new to the LR4 so I may not know every trick. Anyone else?