I second the solid rotor - unless you're at the track and have a need to cool these rotors very quickly then stick to solid rotors as it's highly likely that you'll warp or even crack the drilled ones, plus you'll have added surface area and a LOT less noise. For the LR3 I've really loved the hawk HPS pads...EBC make great rotor replacements but our heavy trucks go through them so fast that the cheaper blanks are just fine too (I replace rotors with every pad change for these heavy guys - but I do tow so you may get away with every other pad change)...I tow and wheel and generally abuse the heck out of the truck and the cheaper blanks with the HPS pads are a great combo...make a tiny bit of noise but really not noticeable over the stock setup. I would recommend flushing the lines with a quality brake fluid while you're at it...
When the person wrote "solid", it sure sounded to me it meant not vented. I'm talking about the disc being one vs two with veines in between, not drill holes. Vented does not mean drilled.
When these weigh so much, long hills can be worse than a track even though it's one time, not multiple corners that causes overheating.
However, just like in a track, one should not just ride the brakes lightly, the best way to keep heat down is to use short but hard braking so the system can reduce some heat between uses.
This is more intuitive in a track where you want to maintain speed and reduce the amount of time spent slowing down to shorter distance. On a descent, most people just gently ride the brakes which is the worst possible plan.
