Control arm questions

greiswig

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I believe what I've read here indicates that it is largely the lower front control arms that tend to go south, at least at lower mileages like mine (50k). And it even tends to be the rear bushing that goes bad first.

So I plan to replace those, likely with poly bushing assemblies if I can find them. As I do so, I'm trying to figure out if this is a case where it's also best to replace
1. Upper front assemblies
2. Lower rear assemblies
3. Upper rear assemblies

What's the likelihood that all 8 need replacing if the lower front ones are shot?
 

magus

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I replaced the fronts only at 80k. It was time and you could tell while driving. The rear were fine and still seem to be at 104k. There are more experienced people here but seems it’s primarily the feints that need to immediate attention.
 

djkaosone

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Typically, it's the Front LCAs that go first. You'll know from the big clunking sound going over speed bumps or turning. I got the Lucky8 LCA with poly bushings kit. Pretty easy to install, considering I didn't have any major rust.

As far as the rear goes, put it off until you hear something as well. I wouldn't do any preventative on them. Some lasts a long time, and some don't. I had a front LCA replaced by the stealership under warranty and within 3 years it went, less than 30k miles.
 

ryanjl

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I went with the Lucky8 cheapos (with rubber bushings) for my first LCA job. The ball joints went bad in just over a year and 12k miles. My LR4 was making a big racket over bumps. Once diagnosed, we determined that the ball joints were undergreased from the factory.

After that, pulled both of those control arms and swapped them with the ones with the green poly bushings that Atlantic British sells. Those have been fine for the last 3 or so years, but they do ride a little harsher than factory. Enough that I would equally consider just going with factory ones and changing them every 60 to 70k miles.
 

greiswig

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After that, pulled both of those control arms and swapped them with the ones with the green poly bushings that Atlantic British sells. Those have been fine for the last 3 or so years, but they do ride a little harsher than factory. Enough that I would equally consider just going with factory ones and changing them every 60 to 70k miles.
I had read your prior posts, @ryanjl , and tried to buy them. Apparently Atlantic British no longer makes the LCA assembly with those poly bushings, even though they seem to offer every other one. When I inquired, "Correct we do not have this item , not made" was all I got.

Trying to decide between the Meyle HD units or the Lucky 8s with the poly bushings and a likely need to replace the ball joint soon.

Another question, though: if I'm in there replacing the LCA's, is there anything else that I likely need to look at in the swaybar or steering links?
 

ryanjl

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Replacing the swaybar or steering links has very little work shared with replacing the lower control arms. If yours are fine, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

jjvd21

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Can’t say enough about the Meyle HD kit from AF. Better quality than oem and 4 year warranty. Also cheaper than dealer oem. My dealer put them in for me and asked where I bought the kit he wanted to order a few sets as an alternative. I’ve put the set in my D4 and D3.

 

mm3846

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Can’t say enough about the Meyle HD kit from AF. Better quality than oem and 4 year warranty. Also cheaper than dealer oem. My dealer put them in for me and asked where I bought the kit he wanted to order a few sets as an alternative. I’ve put the set in my D4 and D3.

Are they still fluid filled bushings? I'm gonna need control arms soon, and was thinking either the Lemforders from FCP Euro bc of the lifetime warranty.
 

txfromwi

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I just did the Front LCA on the 2013 at about 85K a few months ago.
Everything else is solid.
I learned this diagnostic from this group: Drive at 1-2 mph, strongly apply the brakes. If it clunks, its the Front LCA'.s


I have had issues in the past on other vehicles pressing in bushings/bearings so I am not going to even try that again.
I purchased the entire assembly new from Atlantic British.
I was not paying enough attention so I ended up with aftermarket rather than OEM. Seems fine - at least to far.

One word of caution - one of the NEW bolts that goes through the shock might have been bad as it stretched and snapped well before the required torque.
I purchased a new bolt at Rover and it was fine.
 

timc930

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If you are keeping the car, you'll be doing this again, so I'd get them from FCP Euro (LT Warranty). Mine are starting to go at 80K, and I'll be buying them from FCP as we will be keeping this car indefinitely. BTW, I've change my oil every 5K since 38K and I've only paid for one oil change. Costs me around $18 each oil change due to their LT Warranty. I do this on the L4R and M3. I've saved thousands using their LT warranty on my cars.
 

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