Coolant Flush

[Parkersking]

Desperately need help!

Today I decided to flush out and replace the coolant in my 2006 lr3. After opening the bottom radiator hose, I let the coolant all drain out. I poured a ton of water into the resevoir and let it drain through. I reclamped the radiator hose and continued to fill the truck with 50/50 dexcool through the resevoir. Left cap off, bleeder valve loose, and started truck. Turned on heat.

Shortly after, the coolant began rapidly expanding. My reader showed coolant was reaching 240F and temp gauge on truck went above 3 oclock position. I shut it off to prevent overheat damage. Ive let it cool and tried several times, putting cap back on, draining more coolant, squeezing the coolant hoses, taking cap back off, all to no avail.

I am baffled and although i just drained coolant from the bottom twice until the resevoir was in normal range, im now looking at a filled to the brim resevoir once again. Thanks.

 

[Parkersking]

Update, I screwed on resevoir cap and started it for the 100000th time. Rather than bubbling up, it actually lowered, and the engine stayed cool. I ran the heaters on full blast for a good ten minutes and the coolant stayed around 200F. Shut off the truck and topped of coolant to cold fill line. Ran beautifully 5 miles back to my house.

When we left for dinner, boom it overheats within 2 mins. Pulled over immediately with temp gauge peaking around 75% mark. Shut everything down and waited 15 mins. Coolant again had expanded to the cap. Coolant temp was 226. I opened the resevoir and it lowered back to the fill line.

Started the truck to attempt to make it a quarter mile back to the house. Everything was beautiful. When we arrived I drove around our community for 20 mins with no issue. Seriously ***!! Im afraid to take this truck anywhere... Anyone have any ideas on whats happening and what I can do to get peace of mind? Im seriously regretting changing my coolant!!

 

[mrlithic]

Same here

2008 LR3 and dealing with same problem - almost to a 't'. I had a cracked bleeder 't' above the radiator. I replaced and have gone through bleeding process (as prescribed in workshop manual) and still no fix. I have no heat so clearly there is air in the line and I do not know what the trick is to getting this air out completely. I am wondering if dealer/shops pump coolant in to overflow to avoid air gaps. Afraid I'm on the verge of ruining a perfectly good motor over a $10 plastic part failure. It is becoming a little ridiculous at this point.

 

[Parkersking]

Glad you posted your experience as well. I started it up this morning and everything was still running fine. Drove a couple miles to dunkin donuts and back without issue. Still extremely worried as it overheated so "randomly" last night after running fine for a while. I posted this to reddit and a few guys replied that it does in fact seem to be air in the system somewhere. Although everything is fine right now, Im hoping someone will come forth with some good suggestions. It seems 50/50 likely it will overheat again and I'm gonna need to re-bleed it.

 

[mrlithic]

This vehicle has such an extensive labyrinth of coolant lines running everywhere that it is hard to get the air out. I have done the system air bleeds and can't seem to get it all. That is why I have to wonder if shops actually use the shop manual recommendations on bleeding or if there is a pressurized way of doing it more quickly and thoroughly. All I know is that it can't be as difficult as it has become. I ran out to the store and thought it would be safe to run it on a longer trip this morning (about 3 miles) and I was wrong. Stopped several times along the way as it showed it was overheating. Had no heat from heater the whole time. Tried opening the bleeder on the reserve tank to see if that would let some air out. Lots of pressure but couldn't resolve. 30 minutes later - pulled into driveway!

 

[PWD2]

Wonder why the workshop manual doesn't mention the T bleeder when doing a drain and fill. I just read that someone used that as bleed point when doing final top off fill. Just dont understand why that is not mentioned in shop manual.

Wonder if drain process should include opening this T bleeder too to effectively drain the system. Anyone have any knowledge of a secret foolproof drain and fill process?

 

[-cisco-]

I know its and old post, but probably it will help someone else.
While idle, with your hand squeeze the ********* hose on the left side (driver side in the US ) several times. You will see some air bubbles poping up to the cooler container. Hope It helps!