Coolant Leak, not holding vacuum

Justin Mann

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I tore apart my 2013 LR4 last weekend and replaced the front crossover pipe. Rear crossover appears to have been replaced recently (really hard to get back there). I put everything back together and went to drain the system of as much coolant as possible. Vacuum tool was not holding pressure. I noticed I could hear leakage around where I replaced the front crossover, with coolant leaking around the oil cooler. Is there something else that may need replaced? Doesn't seem to be coming from the front crossover. Oh and the water pump was replaced about 17k ago

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jlglr4

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There are only three places I can think of that would put coolant into the valley like that: (1) front crossover (2) oil cooler inlet tube (from water pump to the oil cooler) and (3) the soft rubber heater tube that runs from the heater manifold (rear crossover) under the intake manifold to the throttle body (I have the SCV6 model, but I assume the V8s have this as well).

On the front crossover, are the inserts all the way down into the block? When I pulled my front crossover, the pipe ends were degraded, and the end ridge of the pipe stayed in the block when I pulled the pipe. I had to dig the ends out from the block separately.

I think (2) is the most likely culprit. Did you replace the water pump as well? There are two gaskets/o-rings that need to be on this tube - one on the tube end going into the oil cooler, and one on the tube end going into the water pump. If you used a new water pump, it comes with a gasket already installed as I recall - so don’t use another on top of it. If you kept the old water pump, its possible those gaskets are worn out.

The other thing about that little tube is that its hard to get it to sit right when you’re putting the pump back on (assuming you had the pump off). But you should be able to spot that problem readily with the intake manifold off.

You can buy new gaskets and a new tube, but depending on your mileage, you might want to replace the pump as well at this point.
 

mbw

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For some reason my mind goes to the little cap on the front crossover pipe. Did you forget to put that on?
 

Justin Mann

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Yea I put the little cap back on the front crossover and I did have to pull pieces of the front crossover out of the block when replacing. I'm pretty sure I seated the front crossover as far as it will go down into the block. Can still see the top bit of the orings on the front crossover. I'm suspected the oring on the oil cooler inlet tube also. I replaced the soft rubber heater hose and made sure to inspect it again after pulling it back apart again. Do I have to remove the water pump to remove that oil cooler inlet tube? The water pump was previously done before my purchase. No leaks in the front so it appears good.
 

jlglr4

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Yes, need to remove the water pump to remove the tube.

On the front crossover, I’m not sure you should be seeing the o-rings sticking up - doesn’t sound right to me. But, again, I have the 2016 which has a slightly different pipe in the front. Still, you have it apart, so you might just pull it out and check the holes - make sure there’s nothing in there, then push those pipes in as far as they’ll go.
 

Justin Mann

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Should I replace the oil cooler gasket too while I there? Don't know if I have to remove that also when replacing the oil cooler inlet tube. Guess I'll be looking up a forum post on replacing the water pump now.
 

ktm525

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I had a replacement pump last just 5k kms. It sucks but it happens. Defective new part.
 

jlglr4

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Should I replace the oil cooler gasket too while I there? Don't know if I have to remove that also when replacing the oil cooler inlet tube. Guess I'll be looking up a forum post on replacing the water pump now.
No, the oil cooler gasket is under the oil cooler. You don’t need to remove the oil cooler to deal with the little coolant inlet tube that connects the front of the oil cooler to the waterpump. That little tube just pulls out when you remove the water pump.

If you think the waterpump was replaced recently, don’t replace it. The coolant tube and o-rings are separate parts. In fact, the tube is probably fine, it might just need a new o-ring or two - they’re sold separately. Its possible they changed the pump and didn’t put the o-ring back, or re-used the old o-ring and now it’s leaking.
 

Justin Mann

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Ok i put in a new water pump, thermostat, oil cooler seals and installed an aluminum version of the oil cooler pipe. I've got everything back on and now I'm back to the front crossover pipe. It's not OEM , its a part Atlantic British sells (all makes 4x4 china) who I've bought from in the past. This *@%$ thing wont push in to where it's flush. Should I just put the torx screws in and try and crank it down to where the o rings compress enough for it to "pop" in. I'm contemplating just trashing it and buying OEM.
 

LB Bill

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Not an expert..not even close, but given what you've been through so far, and where you are headed, I vote for OEM on this part.
This topic keeps me up at night and mine only has 15K.
 

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