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cracking noise on left front wheel lr3

Discussion in 'LR3' started by salim, Jan 23, 2018.

Car Parts
  1. salim

    salim New Member

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    Hi,
    I have a cracking sound on my lr3 yr 2006 v6 4.0 lt petrol . the noise is can be heard coming from front left wheel . As the inner cv shaft was leaking grease a lot ,so i decided to put a new cv drive shaft. After putting the new cv drive shaft and went for a drive ,the cracking noise still there . i have check if there is any play or noise in the wheel bearing by turning the wheel clockwise and anti clockwise , move it wheel horinzontally and vertically , can't find any fault to say the wheel bearing is faulty.
    Has anyone got the same fault before , you rhelp would be highly appreciated.
    Cheers
     
  2. Globetrotter

    Globetrotter Full Access Member

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    Have you checked the uni's on the front drive shaft (the one going to the diff)
     
  3. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    Just for ha, ha's, swap wheels front to rear on the side making "cracking noise" eliminating a cracked rim spoke as the cause.
    Under vehicle routine inspections of the CV boots for rips and tears due to age or road object impact catching a problem before damaging a CV joint.
    A lot cheaper replacing a damaged boot before it gets contaminated with water and grit in the joint then repacking CV with grease vs half shaft replacement.
    Have seen damaged boots with CV joints now shot and packed with grit, water and dirt several times a year looking under vehicles at a friends muffler shop I hung out at.
    Show the customers damaged boots including the now worn out CV joint, see the surprised look on their faces not knowing.
    Not knowing a thing about LR3's suspensions, (own a 95 D1), have you checked the front shock strut (failing internally) as well it's mounting brackets for any hairline fractures showing a rust line that's "talking to you"?
    Checked suspension pivot mounting points to body, (frame)?
    Simulate body action movement with the help of friends creating that "cracking noise" while stationary while someone investigates the suspension.
    Non greasable and now dry ball joint or tie rod end talking to you?
    Carl.....~~=o&o>.....
     
  4. maxx4wd

    maxx4wd Full Access Member

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    I would go through every joint...start with checking lower control arm bushings and ball joints (common issue) ... tie-rods if the noise occurs when turning...also check the sway bar links (I know mine are bad right now and can hear it occasionally) just find a rough road and see if you hear the same noise...lastly re-check the cv and wheel bearings. I've found it helpful to stick a gopro under the car and drive around...helps pin point the sounds as sometimes the sound filters funny through the cabs..
     
  5. Houm_WA

    Houm_WA Full Access Member

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    ...if it sounds like an old creaky rocking chair, then it's likely just dried out bushings/joints. You can lube them up and it will go away.
     
  6. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    "Lifetime" tie rod ends and ball joints from the factory are just that, they fail at end of their lifetime. Short lived more like it
    Non zerk fitting ball, tie rod ends plus anti roll bar links flat suck.
    Aftermarket replacements usually come with zerk fittings (not all) allowing joints to be lubed as well to flush out water and dirt for those that play submarine with their LR's.
    Even non greaseable (lifetime) joints if you added zerks to them they will outlast OEM non greaseable joints several time over.
    One tip, reconfigure a four finger welder's tubing Vice Grip then compress tie rod ends or ball joints slightly allowing grease to pass by the ball and its seat refilling the grease sack.
    Lifetime joints do not have a ground in groove allowing grease to pass by the ball and seat filling the sack..
    Replacement ball and tie rod ends with zerks have a ground in grease channel allowing grease to pass by the joint ball and its seat.
    At 142K miles, original joints that are still stiff like new.
    I added zerks to every LR lifetime ball and tie rod end joint.
    Polyurethane bushing replacements on all radius arm as well panhard rod end bushings greatly improving the steering precision vs OEM rubber.
    Any rubber lubricant to rubber bushings will only attract dust and dirt as well a temporary quick fix silencing a squeak. Good to locate the offending joint that's about all.
    .....~~=o&o>.....
     
  7. Ruper

    Ruper Full Access Member

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    BeemerNut, when you did your poly bushings, did you have access to a hydraulic press or just a bushing replacement tool set like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27pc-Uni...989383?hash=item2ed9b4a1c7:g:DoAAAOSwD0lUata9

    Contemplating bushing replacement over new control arms with bushings in place. Also was there a noticeable ride difference IYO from the poly bushings? Not doing much technical 4 wheeling these days its a DD so looking to keep the soccer mom ride quality as I have a weekly 5 hour road trip, well 10 hours if you figure return trip and a back needing a bushing replacement as well, LOL.
     
  8. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    Ruper, in the LR3 & 4 world of vehicles I have an antique POS 95 D1 vs "High Tech" ownership.
    Far as ride difference I did not detect a difference and if so it was very slight. I have HD springs (factory height) all around plus way stiffer anti-roll bars.

    Smart move vs the "quick and expensive easy purchasing complete control arms when only the joint requires replacing. Take note and mark all the eccentric bolts and return them to the same position on assembly. You'll be surprised how close you'll be allowing driving to get a four wheel alignment check afterwards. Below explains my DIY alignments.
    I switched over to Poly when there was nothing wrong with the rubber OEM suspension. I like the cleaner crispy steering and handling upgrade Poly has vs the mushy OEM rubber. I enjoy driving twisty mountain roads at speed.
    I'm a DIY person, nobody touches my vehicles including stearlerships the past 20 years four months of D1 ownership.
    I have a small 12 ton press, a bearing removal and install kit; https://www.ebay.com/p/16011010347?...MI8-rOvZGO6QIVIxvnCh20tgwlEAQYAyABEgLDtvD_BwE
    With several pullers, a lathe and Bridgeport mill I can make the required tools to work on my vehicles. Being an old LR with solid axles they have been 100% trouble free just the Poly install, wheel bearing service plus swivel bearing preload being checked now at 143K miles. Hell 100% original tie rod and ball joints modified with zerks added all still snug and tight. Needing an odd spacer to remove or install a bearing or bushing is only a quick lathe project away.
    Sorry no clue or interest in what LR3's & 4's have in way of suspension joints and control arms or what's required in labor and parts replacements. I did get involved in replacing heads on a LR4 once. Told myself to never work on again.

    I do own a Hunter G111 4 wheel alignment machine for my DIY alignments and vehicles.

    Sorry, my focus is on 94 & 95 D1's w/5 speeds for a reason with 4.6 installs, OB1 smog plus push rod engines with distributors allowing initial as well advance curves I can alter. .....~~=o&o>......
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2020
  9. Ruper

    Ruper Full Access Member

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    Sounds like the two scout internationals I own. I can fix anything on them and did a sting and level alignment and she drove straight as an arrow. I try to do all, and have so far of my own work as well even though I don not have the depth of tools you have. But those scouts don't do so well on 5 hour trips up and down NC, I would be paralyzed if I did. But the little 800 will go thru anything and since there is no and I mean zero electronics even a ECM wouldn't stop it. Its cool knowing you don't need a laptop to work on these old ones huh?
    Thanks for the info.
     
  10. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    Ruper, I must apologize not answering your question. DIY installed Poly bushings first 18 then the rest two years later and 100% Poly. I consider them as an upgrade in handling and sharpness of steering even better than when brand new. Also replaced the rag joint rear driveshaft to diff joint once and for all, no more vibration issues plus replacements as my engine ripped a couple apart. New Range Rover SWB shaft install with real "U" jpoints. The Poly (Blue) suspension has been untouched and silent with no noise issues including those for the anti-roll bars (oversize plus HD springs stock heigth), I like to corner.
    Installed Poly with the thick silicone grease (nast to get off hands later), cleaned off excess pushed out not to attract dirt and crap.
    I had five reasons why the 95 D1 purchase. One as the family was growing hence more back seat space vs the backup vehicle a 84 Mitsubishi Monterto Sport a 5 spd with manual locking hubs. I miss that trouble free vehicle. Out went the 2.6 litre four, in a 89 Mitsubishi V6 with 5 spd tranny. Being narrow, more power, it went anywhere except playing submarine being my choice respecting machinery.
    Second the D1's old 215 Olds engine and I go back to the late 60's wrenching on them with dad and friends racing them, I believe in that aluminum engine. Even installed a Rover 3.5 litre into a 62 P1800 Volvo a vast inprovement also made a fun to drive coupe. D1's Solid axles no suspension linkage wearing out or alignment issues from bumping a curb with bad tyre wear issues. Reminds me of the 68 F250 Pickup with solid twin "I" beam front suspension that I can climb curbs without going out of alignment and falling apart. Holding at over a million miles still under testing the twin "I" beam's durability. Properly aligned no worries 30 years later perfect alignment. I own a Hunter G111 alignment machine.
    Third it's a 5 speed that can be bump started when the Lucas POS starter decides to fail vs the boring slush box allowing stirring the stick as well should it be "wounded" it will talk to me thousands of miles vs a slush box failing you far away from home or civilization.
    Fourth being a OB1 vehicle, read the fault code, change out the part then clear the readout a 30 second task. Only issue I have had (stupid on my part) is a cold start with the AC left on then the cold idle falls below 550 rpm's then the 048 "STEPPER MOTOR" fault code pops up. Modified cold start only allowing 825 rpm's vs 2,300 to 2,500 rpm's instantly at cold startup, a EPA BS to heat the Cats up quicker. No thanks not on my engines.
    Last model year sporting a distributor, vacuum advance from Austrailia allowing more degrees advance vs US and a second step less for Kalif. as well centrifugal advance allowed altering to when and how many degrees to what the engine can handle, call it fine tuning with nice rewards. Best part passes Kaifornia's NAZI smog checks, they have no clue what's under the hood period. The 4.6 w/3.9 plenum top fools them.
    Last item the body style of my choice being different and not a big ugly box which also includes the longer bodied next Disco's with the added rear body overhang after the rear diff. Add their ugly tail lights looking more like a Disco that landed on it's roof from a distance at night.
    Being my extra vehicle nobody drives it and did get a chance to drive a 3 door Disco vs the 5 doorm D1. Its growing on me but not to be found stateside in LHD.

    The 58 LR diesel, what a hoot that was as long as you went anywhere below 50 mph. S.F. bay area to L.A. and back felt like we drove across Austrailia and back twice taking three months. We rolled it at the ranch a slow motion soft roll. Kicked it back on its wheels it drove away, talk about basic transportation. Want heat, carry an extra blanket.
    Basic engine, one belt, a generator you can bump start it even with a dead battery and not a bunch of computers and sensors and parts to fool with when they failed.
    The 95 D1 already has plenty of computer crap like the ABS that doesn't work, remove the fuse and drive it like a normal vehicle. I can also live without 17 cup holders newer LR's have.
    IH Scouts, my tenant had three of them, recall they used parts off several manufactures in them, a "peoples vehicle" the tenant called it. Back to basics for a reason with the satisfaction of being a DIY person, look at the money you saved vs the dealerships getting rich off you. Only plastic in a IH Scouts had is the possibly the seat covers......~~=o&o>......
     

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