While trying to find the source of a rattling/squeaking noise, I lifted the rear end and took the rear wheel off and noticed this. Did I do this by jacking on the frame in front of the rear wheel and missing some special procedure for jacking an LR? Is the airbag shot or is that just a dust cover?
Did I tear my air suspension by jacking up the rear end?
- Thread starter Nelz99
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Houm_WA
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a.) no special procedure and your jacking point sounds good.
b.) I think that's just the boot or "gaitor" and if it's the actual bag you'll know!
b.) I think that's just the boot or "gaitor" and if it's the actual bag you'll know!
remember5
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I agree with Houm on both counts however I noticed that whenever I get my LR3 back from Goodyear it's always set in high mode and read somewhere that if you lift it on a lift you should extend the suspension. I've just never taken the time to check that out. Attached are the manual sections on jacking and lifting if you want to research. __ After I posted this I opened the lifting section and it does say to position in off road height, so I guess Goodyear knows what they're doing.
That ripped rubber is just the gaiter that protects the rubber of the airbag from whatever.
Whenever you purchase new air shocks, you have to separately specify that you also want the gaiter as it does not come included.
Re jacking to remove a wheel, I use two jacks on the rear and on the front maybe just one.
For the rear I have an old 3 ton Jet trolley jack (probably rated 6 ton now) with an adapter I made up that inserts into the hole in the frame re each wheel.
The second jack is a small bottle jack that I then set under the respective wheel A frame. There is no good location for this jack re the rear, but the front A frame as a dimple perfectly located for the piston of the hydraulic jack.
In theory, I jack on the trolley until the rubber is almost off the ground and then jack on the bottle jack to lift the rubber free. I mostly just leave the suspension level at normal as I find that jacking causes air to release or not; seems to depend on the mood of the 3, and this is with a door open or not. I usually have all the doors closed but the drivers window open and the keys out.
Re the front, if I am just changing a wheel and am on solid ground, I will just use the bottle jack to lift the A arm. It is really fast and does not actually jack the body, just compresses the air spring.
Whenever you purchase new air shocks, you have to separately specify that you also want the gaiter as it does not come included.
Re jacking to remove a wheel, I use two jacks on the rear and on the front maybe just one.
For the rear I have an old 3 ton Jet trolley jack (probably rated 6 ton now) with an adapter I made up that inserts into the hole in the frame re each wheel.
The second jack is a small bottle jack that I then set under the respective wheel A frame. There is no good location for this jack re the rear, but the front A frame as a dimple perfectly located for the piston of the hydraulic jack.
In theory, I jack on the trolley until the rubber is almost off the ground and then jack on the bottle jack to lift the rubber free. I mostly just leave the suspension level at normal as I find that jacking causes air to release or not; seems to depend on the mood of the 3, and this is with a door open or not. I usually have all the doors closed but the drivers window open and the keys out.
Re the front, if I am just changing a wheel and am on solid ground, I will just use the bottle jack to lift the A arm. It is really fast and does not actually jack the body, just compresses the air spring.
Bowman
Member
BByer that’s a clever adapter you made! How did you make that?
I got the dimensions for the pointy end from the attached jpg below and then sized the trolley jack end to my Jet trolley.
I then made up a dimensioned sketch of such for a machine shop plus a picture of something similar and they turned it out on a lathe for me.
I could have used a generic flat pad but with the pointy part going up thru the hole in the frame, as the 3 lifts it drags the trolley with it so there is no side load on the trolley.
The real key however is the 2 ton bottle jack to lift the A arm after one has the weight of the 3 carried by the trolley.
Bowman
Member
Awesome! Thanks for that great idea. I’ll use your diagram to get one made.
I suggest you confirm the dimensions of the top portion with reference to the OD of the hole in the frame but the 16 mm number seems a bit small - well might be correct?
Re the lower portion, size that for the trolley jack you have.
I am going to measure mine and see what it actually is and will report back.
Just measured my adapter and the upper dimensions are as shown on the drawing but the diameter of the end that fits into the trolley is a bit less - approx 28 mm.
The OD of the surround is 30 mm and the thickness, 20 mm. The lower end is 40 mm long so it secures a bit better in the trolley.
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