difference between front and rear valve blocks?

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ftillier

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My front valve block might be on its way out - the front end is sagging again as of a few nights ago (when temperatures dropped quite a bit). Looking at various sites, it appears the front is backordered. Any idea what the difference is between the front and rear blocks? I'm surprised LR wouldn't use the same parts for both.
 

Rover Range

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While they are physically the same. even the electrical connector is the same, they are wired up differently.

Rather than shot gunning a valve block, spray the valve block with soapy water and look for air leaks.
 

ftillier

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I did that a few months ago and it fixed things until two nights ago. I plan on checking it again, but am trying to prepare myself for replacement.
 

cannondale900

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Call around to a few places. Some of these parts are VIN locked and they won't release one to you unless you provide your VIN......resulting in the part appearing online as back ordered.

I have a front, middle, and rear valve block in parts cabinet. They can absorb moisture in the air so they have a "use by" date.

Try calling FCP Euro, Land Rover Lake Bluff, and Atlantic British.
 

HuskerBred

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I just replaced my front valve block on my 2011 with one I ordered from amazon. Nothing fancy, came with new vox fittings, works like it's supposed to work. $50ish.
 

ryanjl

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I "rebuilt" my valve blocks, which really just involved me taking them apart and cleaning out some desiccant that had blown down the air tubes from the compressor dryer. Could be some of that desiccant has interfered with some of the valves inside the block, keeping them from closing all the way.

You can buy rebuild kits that have new rubber seals, but I found they didn't really fit right on mine. I just cleaned up what I had and put them back together.
 

ftillier

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I got a rebuild kit from Amazon and ended up sending it back - the o-rings were close, but not right. I did take it apart and cleaned the little bit of desiccant powder that was there, and it eliminated all sagging since August. I'll try to spray it down with soapy water and with any luck, it's just the Voss fittings that need snugging down. I looked at the wiring diagram for the plugs, and they seem pretty much identical between the front and rear, only possibly reversing the left/right, but that could be accommodated at the air line fittings. If I get a chance, I'll measure impedance with my multimeter and see if I can discover the difference.
 

ftillier

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I dug in, and didn't have a leak at the front valve block. I do think there might have been some desiccant powder keeping the valve from closing fully, which coupled with a slight leak at the compressor hose meant the front sagged. Moving the suspension up/down seems to have sorted it for now. I still wonder what the difference is between the front and rear blocks, though. Someday I'll check, just not yet. I had checked the lrdirect site, and agree their pricing is quite good, thanks for the vote of confidence in them.
 

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