Ian Walker 62
New Member
Hi, my keyfob seems to have stopped charging as working fine for months then did about 300 round trip came home went out next day to find I had to use the key to get in. Any ideas ?
Cheers Ian
Cheers Ian
Disco 3 keyfob dead
- Thread starter Ian Walker 62
- Start date
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douglastic
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maybe need to replace the battery ($10ish), find some DIY on the you tubes
Did you try leaving in the ignition for a bit to see if it comes back to life at all?
Did you try leaving in the ignition for a bit to see if it comes back to life at all?
remember5
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I ordered a replacemnt fob from ebay or amazon, don't remember, and programmed it to my LR3 and swapped the generic key part with my key part. It doesn't snap open quite as well but it works. I tried soldering in a new battery and fried the circuit board on the original one. I don't have an electronic soldering gun and went too hot...
Went through this many times and the most recent time was a bit different because I could not find replacement housings that fit the original metal key part.
Option 1: Replace the battery (~$10): If you can open the key fob housing up without damage then it is possible to solder in a new battery. I've done this numerous times and I needed a soldering iron, some de-soldering ribbon, and some solder. Open the housing, de-solder 2 pins that hold the battery in place, remove old battery, fit new battery, then resolder the new battery pins. The original housing and most replacements are glued, so it's possible you can damage the case and will need to buy a new one (option 2).
Option 2: New FOB housing + battery ($20). All the new key fob housings I could find this last time required modification to fit the original metal key. I broke the old one opening it up and had to replace it. Read reviews on all amazon listings I could find. Didn't used to be this way, the replacement housings used to be made so they would work with the OEM metal key. Great pics on amazon under the products. Once the housing is open, solder on the new battery, move the circuit board into the new housing, use a dremel to shave down the opening for the OEM metal key, and close the housing up. Mine works but doesn't click open cleanly so I plan on massaging it again. By keeping the OEM metal key, I didn't have to spend $50 to get it re-cut. By keeping the original circuit board, I didn't have to get the key reprogrammed (no idea how much this costs, but I'd wager at least $100). Everything is working great with the new battery!
Option 3: Housing with circuit board + reprogramming + cutting ($50-200). If you want an entirely new key (~$20), these can be found on amazon/ebay too now. You need to take the new and old keys to a locksmith to have the new one cut. I had to call around for a shop with the right cutting machine. When I found it, they charged me $50. Since the circuit board is new, you will need to have your car programmed to accept the key. The dealership does (I'd guess $100 plus) this and I have also done it with a code reader tool like the GAP IID tool.
Option 1: Replace the battery (~$10): If you can open the key fob housing up without damage then it is possible to solder in a new battery. I've done this numerous times and I needed a soldering iron, some de-soldering ribbon, and some solder. Open the housing, de-solder 2 pins that hold the battery in place, remove old battery, fit new battery, then resolder the new battery pins. The original housing and most replacements are glued, so it's possible you can damage the case and will need to buy a new one (option 2).
Option 2: New FOB housing + battery ($20). All the new key fob housings I could find this last time required modification to fit the original metal key. I broke the old one opening it up and had to replace it. Read reviews on all amazon listings I could find. Didn't used to be this way, the replacement housings used to be made so they would work with the OEM metal key. Great pics on amazon under the products. Once the housing is open, solder on the new battery, move the circuit board into the new housing, use a dremel to shave down the opening for the OEM metal key, and close the housing up. Mine works but doesn't click open cleanly so I plan on massaging it again. By keeping the OEM metal key, I didn't have to spend $50 to get it re-cut. By keeping the original circuit board, I didn't have to get the key reprogrammed (no idea how much this costs, but I'd wager at least $100). Everything is working great with the new battery!
Option 3: Housing with circuit board + reprogramming + cutting ($50-200). If you want an entirely new key (~$20), these can be found on amazon/ebay too now. You need to take the new and old keys to a locksmith to have the new one cut. I had to call around for a shop with the right cutting machine. When I found it, they charged me $50. Since the circuit board is new, you will need to have your car programmed to accept the key. The dealership does (I'd guess $100 plus) this and I have also done it with a code reader tool like the GAP IID tool.
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