DIY water pump and crossover pipe Video.

[kennyao3001]

Figured I would post this up in its own thread.

Hope this helps at least one of you DIY your own water pump.

I posted all the part numbers in the video description, most parts were sourced from amazon or eBay.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ktm525]

well done

 

[djkaosone]

Nicely done! I would also recommend taking off the fan clutch first to give you a lot more room.

 

[Azoo]

The video we've all been waiting for, Thanks for taking the time to do this video.

 

[BBLR3]

Thanks for the video. I just did the water pump, crossover pipe replacement. For anyone doing it and not removing the fan, order of operations should be: drain coolant, remove top of fan shroud, lift the intake (front elevated), remove crossover pipe, then you have easy access to the water pump/oil cooler pipe. Assembly in reverse order installing hoses as you go. Dont break the bleeder pipe 90' fitting that goes in the water pump or you get to go buy more parts from the dealer and cuss a bunch.

 

[JARentDTOM]

Nice video. It will be on the watchlist right before and likely during the water pump replacement for mine. Thanks for taking the time.

 

[scott schmerge]

Has anyone done the back crossover pipe? Mine is leaking. Thought initially it was my repair to the front...checked today and the repair is dry as a bone but antifreeze still running off the back of my engine.

If anyone has done it, can you direct me to how you did it? I can’t even find a picture of the back crossover pipe.

 

[Rberkel]

Recently did that. Sorry no pics.

Most tricky part was to move the wiring loom and its plastic bracket (back of the engine) far enough away to take out the old pipe and put in the new one. I removed the bracket and it's support. I didn't move the inlet or any other components, not needed.

I "unhooked" it from the mentioned bracket because it is passing through it. Clips from the bracket were a pain in the $%& to open.
You can then move everything just far enough out of the way to unscrew the pipe and take it out (Torx screws).

I didn't drain any coolant, only a little bit escaped from the pipe when I took of the hose clips. Don't forget to unclip the connector on the sensor on the pipe and make sure you clean all the mating faces on the engine where the pipe goes.

Cleaned of the engine with plenty of water after doing the repair. Coolant is nasty stuff and this way you can also see if there is any leakage.
Took me a few h to do it due to the difficulty of the wiring loom.

Pic from back of engine where you can see the pipe and it's hoses and the mentioned connector at the bottom.

 

[Huy Tran]

I just did mine a couple days ago. It was a bit of a challenge for me to reach back there to do the work.
The rear had a small crack at the top that leaked coolant down the back of the engine and transmission.
Picked up the part at the dealership for $115 (Heater manifold LR109402 for V8 and LR109401 for V6).

Seemed fairly straight forward after studying pictures of the engine.
Here's a quick sketch.

I removed the intake manifold as I was going to replace the front crossover pipe as well.
-Disconnect the small coolant hose at the top that connects to the intake.
-Unscrew the 4 screw. Some are visible. Others you'll have to do it by feeling around.
-Unplug the sensor and remove the two wire loom ties/holder. I had to break them off as I was not able pry off.
-Remove heater hose connector. I struggled for a while to unclip it from the back, then realized that it was easier to unclip further up the hose (past the bleeder screw).

That's it! Just reassemble and zip tie the wires back in place.

As a side note. My new front crossover pipe did not come with a bleeder cap (LR011038 green on image).

When i tried removing the old one, it just fell apart. Need to make another run to the dealership...

 

[timc930]

A bit off topic, but looking at the design of the 126 vs the 133, I am hoping this procedure (rear cross pipe) is easier on the 126 since the heads (as they appear in drawings) appear to sit on the forward 3 cylinders, leaving more space between the ends of the heads and the Firewall. I guess I am looking for any benefit of owning the AJ126...and eventually working on it down the road....