Downshift catching... a bit harsh... Just a bit.

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quirozson

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My 2011 LR4 is new to me. I've noticed a slight downshift "bump" as I come to a stop. It is very slight "engine pressure? braking", but not "normal" to me. I'm new to Land Rovers and ZF trannys, so maybe it is normal. I see the RPM rise from 900-1250... It seems to happen the last two shifts before complete stop. More noticeable stopping on an incline.

As the car is new to me, I did a transmission drain and fill with ZF lifeguard 6 (did not replace the pan/filter). It seems to have made no difference at all (needed to do it regardless for peace of mind).

Thought I'd do a Transmission Adaptions Reset if folks thought it would help. Do you think it would help? Other troubleshooting ideas? (no faults; otherwise shifts great)

Anyone in the Denver area have the tool to do this? I have a icarsoft LR V2 and it seems to NOT have this capability.

Thanks in advance for the communities expertise.

Regards!
 

avslash

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Careful.

There have been reports of transmissions being killed by resetting the adaptions and the trans being unable to re-learn due to worn solenoids or leaking bridge seals.

In fairness, some have reporting resetting them without issue.

If I were you, I would drop the trans pan and replace the filter. While in there drop the mechatronic unit and replace the bridge seal and tubes, and honestly, If I already felt there was an issue, I would replace the solenoids as well.

Probably $550 or so total in parts for the pan/filter, fluid, bridge, tubes and solenoids if you do the work yourself. Other than being messy, it is not a technically intensive job.

Instructions for this can be found here. http://www.thectsc.com/tree-faq

The linked site also sells the solenoids and seals. Pan/filter/fluid can come from Atlantic British.

Only after doing all of the above, would I personally reset the adaptions.
 

ryanjl

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My 2011 LR4 is new to me. I've noticed a slight downshift "bump" as I come to a stop. It is very slight "engine pressure? braking", but not "normal" to me. I'm new to Land Rovers and ZF trannys, so maybe it is normal. I see the RPM rise from 900-1250... It seems to happen the last two shifts before complete stop. More noticeable stopping on an incline.

As the car is new to me, I did a transmission drain and fill with ZF lifeguard 6 (did not replace the pan/filter). It seems to have made no difference at all (needed to do it regardless for peace of mind).

Thought I'd do a Transmission Adaptions Reset if folks thought it would help. Do you think it would help? Other troubleshooting ideas? (no faults; otherwise shifts great)

Anyone in the Denver area have the tool to do this? I have a icarsoft LR V2 and it seems to NOT have this capability.

Thanks in advance for the communities expertise.

Regards!

You probably should have replaced the mechatronix sleeves and seal when you had the transmission pan off. You can google and youtube search a lot of issues on these transmissions as they were also used in other cars, like BMWs.
 

quirozson

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Thanks for the replies. Like I said, the engine pressure slowdown is light but distinct. Compared to my Volvo it is obvious. That being said, absent engine transmission fault codes, I am not ready to take apart my transmission. Absent any other recommendations, I am going to live with it for a while as I don't see it as harmful. I used to drive a manual and would downshift much harder than what I'm experiencing from time to time.

Any other feedback on clear/reset of transmission adaptions?

One other observation... My LR4 didn't have a transmission pan heat shield between the pan and the catalytic pipes. Did some come off the assembly line without? There was a heat shield above the pan, but not below.
 
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scott schmerge

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Thanks for the replies. Like I said, the engine pressure slowdown is light but distinct. Compared to my Volvo it is obvious. That being said, absent engine transmission fault codes, I am not ready to take apart my transmission. Absent any other recommendations, I am going to live with it for a while as I don't see it as harmful. I used to drive an automatic and would downshift much harder than what I'm experiencing from time to time.

Any other feedback on clear/reset of transmission adaptions?

One other observation... My LR4 didn't have a transmission pan heat shield between the pan and the catalytic pipes. Did some come off the assembly line without? There was a heat shield above the pan, but not below.

The sleeves and bridge themselves are not in the transmission. If you drop the pan, the mechatronic unit is right there (it’s 13 extra screws). The sleeves bridge to the transmission. It’s actually an easy job. Every clunk is wear, and if those seals are going bad, this repair is really an ounce of prevention...

Mine has no heat shield. I don’t believe the lr4 has one on manufacture.

I reset my adaptations, but had replaced seals and bridge along with solenoids. Transmission finally feels like it should after some time and attention. I have heard horror stories of adaptations reset causing issue, but my experience was fine.
 

quirozson

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Based on everyone's recommendations I will not reset the adaptations at this point. My understanding is the solenoids tend to go fast and furious and set off fault codes. Gonna keep a close eye on whether it's getting worse or not. Right now it fairly intermittent. I question if I would be able to reproduce if I brought into a shop.
 

avslash

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The sleeves and bridge themselves are not in the transmission. If you drop the pan, the mechatronic unit is right there (it’s 13 extra screws). The sleeves bridge to the transmission. It’s actually an easy job. Every clunk is wear, and if those seals are going bad, this repair is really an ounce of prevention...

Mine has no heat shield. I don’t believe the lr4 has one on manufacture.

I reset my adaptations, but had replaced seals and bridge along with solenoids. Transmission finally feels like it should after some time and attention. I have heard horror stories of adaptations reset causing issue, but my experience was fine.


My only addition to this, and I don't think it is mentioned in the instructions I posted is that if you do this, you must remove the connector sleeve from the trans, then drop the mechatronic unit, then replace the mechatronic unit, and then replace the connector sleeve.

Ask me how I learned this order....
 

scott schmerge

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My only addition to this, and I don't think it is mentioned in the instructions I posted is that if you do this, you must remove the connector sleeve from the trans, then drop the mechatronic unit, then replace the mechatronic unit, and then replace the connector sleeve.

Ask me how I learned this order....

Yes, agreed, must remove mechatronic sleeve to drop mechatronic unit.
 

quirozson

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Quick update: I went and test drove a 2011 LR4 and it had a similar downshift feel at the same deceleration speeds:rolleyes:. My car's feedback is more pronounced, but I'd image still within acceptable limits. I guess I'm overly sensitive/concerned about getting burned on a used vehicle.

Can anyone share Transmission Adaptations Reset driving instructions? I know some of the BMW threads have very specific instructions on ATF temp when adaptions are reset and specific driving/shifting steps after a adaptions reset. Regards
 
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doitallLR00

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Quick update: I went and test drove a 2011 LR4 and it had a similar downshift feel at the same deceleration speeds:rolleyes:. My car's feedback is more pronounced, but I'd image still within acceptable limits. I guess I'm overly sensitive/concerned about getting burned on a used vehicle.

Can anyone share Transmission Adaptations Reset driving instructions? I know some of the BMW threads have very specific instructions on ATF temp when adaptions are reset and specific driving/shifting steps after a adaptions reset. Regards
Hey quirozson, did you ever figure out what solved the problem with the tranny?
 

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