Engine goes into reduced power mode

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ftillier

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The cost ceiling for an automatic repair should be discussed though. I think the concern here isn't the cost itself, but that the repair wasn't authorized. That authorization could have come at drop off by saying "if the repair costs less than $1000 we'll just get it done, otherwise we'll call."
 

powershift

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The shop fixed the reduced power problem. They said it was a connection issue and re-seated the cam sensor plug, but they also swapped cam sensors to see if the code follows the sensor. I'm pretty confident the issue would have reproduced by now. Or it could be the problem behavior changed and now its not doing it and it may do it again in the future. Either way I'm not worrying about it since now I'm confident to drive 95 MPH again and it still has plenty left in it. They used a 1/2 tank of gas trying to hit the problem.
 

powershift

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With the fuel you’re burning at 95, why are you worrying about the fuel used by the shop?
It isn't a complaint. To me using a 1/2 tank of gas shows effort. Why does gas usage sound like a complaint to you?

Aside from that, it started running like crap this morning. I didn't notice it running rough until sitting at the light at the off-ramp. No check engine light and it didn't set reduced power mode.
 

powershift

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I had my LR4 towed to the shop since it was clear and obvious there was a problem. It would miss, shake the drivers seat, check engine light was on and it would go into reduced power mode. I finally got a callback yesterday.

They said there is an oilier type device (I forget the exact term, CPS solenoids?) that controls the cam actuator that failed which in-turn caused miss-fires. The cam sensor was correct and did its job. It was a waste of money to swap sensors. I wouldn't have agreed to the labor had they asked me for permission since I prefer to run it until there is an easily reproducible problem, but the front-end service guy that did my timing chain work is back now and he is a straight shooter. It seems risky to leave the other functional CPS solenoid and then want reliability for the next 100k so I asked to replace both of them, there is one on each head.
 

jlglr4

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Maybe VVT solenoids? Not an oiler device, but seems to fit the description. They adjust timing of the camshafts.
 

powershift

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This is the broken part pictured below. Its a ford part. He wasn't being very clear about its name, but to me it look like #2, but mine doesn't have a second tube on the flange like the service manual image shows. That image is for a 2011 and I have a 2012.

HojpFhR.jpg

PYbgRxy.jpg


valvetrain.png
 

Rover Range

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Those are the cam profile solenoids.
The "tube " is the retaining bolt.

Shop manual description:
The CPS solenoids control the supply of engine oil pressure to the locking pins in the switchable tappets, to switch the tappets between the two cam profiles. A CPS solenoid is installed on the rear of each cylinder block. Each CPS solenoid has a pintle installed in a sleeve, which incorporates oil inlet and outlet holes. The sleeve is installed at the junction of oil galleries in the cylinder head, with the oil inlet and outlet holes aligned with the galleries. Movement of the pintle in the sleeve controls a connection between the oil galleries. When the CPS solenoid is energized, the pintle connects an oil supply gallery to the gallery
along the outboard side of the switchable tappets. When the CPS solenoid is de-energized, the oil gallery along the outboard side of the switchable tappets is connected to drain.
 
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ftillier

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What's the ford part number, and what other models was it installed on? I could only make out the 60255 bit.
 

powershift

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It looks like PN 8W93-6D255-AA. Not sure what models it is installed on.
 

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