engine stalling

puckball55

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just replaced valve cover gaskets and maf senser. left the jag shop and my lr4 ran better than ever. just touch the gas get instant response. i was happy for about 5 min then engine stalled while driving. when engine stalled screen reverted to transmission screen. started back up ran for a few minutes and stalled again. i had it towed back to jag shop where they have had it for two days now and dont know whats wrong. any ideals?
 

Shaggy

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just replaced valve cover gaskets and maf senser. left the jag shop and my lr4 ran better than ever. just touch the gas get instant response. i was happy for about 5 min then engine stalled while driving. when engine stalled screen reverted to transmission screen. started back up ran for a few minutes and stalled again. i had it towed back to jag shop where they have had it for two days now and dont know whats wrong. any ideals?

You contact the jag shop yet, letting them know what happened?
 

Joeyrc76

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The electrical system on our trucks are very finicky so I am sure it is something going on there. Please keep us posted on what you hear back.
 

ryanjl

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Any codes?

I doubt it's gas if it runs for a little bit (unless it's an electrical connection to the fuel pump). That said, not sure if there is an engine procedure that drops fuel pressure after a little bit, which is when yours stalls out.

Not air.

Which leaves electric. Maybe something the ECU wants to do when the vehicle "warms" from start?

It's really hard to speculate. The shop probably needs to retrace all of its steps to make sure there isn't anything left unplugged or any wires that got frayed.
 

greiswig

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SWAG here, but why not?

Aren't there two plugs that are easily mixed up when you do the coolant crossover work? Is it possible that they had to also disconnect those to do the valve cover work, and plugged them back in to the wrong parts of the loom?
 

puckball55

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Any codes?

I doubt it's gas if it runs for a little bit (unless it's an electrical connection to the fuel pump). That said, not sure if there is an engine procedure that drops fuel pressure after a little bit, which is when yours stalls out.

Not air.

Which leaves electric. Maybe something the ECU wants to do when the vehicle "warms" from start?

It's really hard to speculate. The shop probably needs to retrace all of its steps to make sure there isn't anything left unplugged or any wires that got frayed.
they now think its the high pressure fuel pump and i was literally running out of gas. they told me middle of next week. this makes sense except car started right up and ran for a few minutes before stalling however it did stall while actually driving down the road
 

txfromwi

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Yes, the engine temperature plug on the heater manifold (rear crossover pipe) and the plug on the back of the intake manifold are interchangeable. I did the 2013 last month and due to wire lengths it was not possible to mess it up, but there are other strings here that state they have been accidentally swapped. As I seem to recall the description of the problem was similar.
 

jlglr4

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Seems like quite a coincidence that the hp fuel pump dies right after they are working on the valve cover, but maybe that’s it. Valve cover removal requires removal of the fuel rails and injectors. Wonder if an injector got damaged or is maybe leaking (they’re supposed to replace the seals when removing/reinstalling injectors) or possibly loose fuel line connection (though I think you’d smell fuel if a fuel line were leaking). Or maybe they bumped/jarred one of the electrical connections to the hp fuel pump or the fuel rail pressure regulator - not sure how that wiring runs through or how likely that is when removing the valve covers.
 

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