Tapps33
Full Access Member
Let me start this post by saying, if I knew then what I know now, I NEVER would have started this project!! It would literally be cheaper and easier to buy a used 2012/13 with a blown engine life the body, roll my 2010 driveline underneath and go on my merry way!!!!!
A little bit of background, I was thinking of doing an SCV8 swap into my wife's 2010 LR4. Because I wanted to make it even sexier, I thought I would update the Infotainment system to the aftermarket tablet one. (Maybe the AC controls too). However, at the time, swapping the tablet into the 2010/11 LR4's meant you lost any OEM system interaction capability. Aka, I couldn't access 4x4 controls or do menial things like set the clock.
And so it began....I had to pull the headliner for what I thought was a roof drain line issue. (Turns out, that was coming in from other areas.). But I thought to myself, I wonder if I could, "just swap a few modules and get it to work?" As I researched how the systems worked, and how they were wired, it because readily apparent this would not be an easy task. The dash harnesses are different, the ICE Link harness is different, ALL of the modules are different, heck, even the AM/FM radio antennas are located on different windows!
I tried to take lots of pictures, but here's the breakdown of everything I ran into/swapped out:
- 2016 touchscreen module
- 2016 Audio Unit (CD Player)
- 2013 CD slot/AC controls (yes, it's different between 2010/11 and 2012+)
- 2013 BCM
- 2013 Instrument Cluster
- 2014 KVM module
- 2014 Satelite radio module
- 2012 Dash wiring harness
- 2016 body wiring harness that I scavenged the amplifier wiring harness out of (of note, I wanted a 2012 harness because I could just swap everything out, no re-pinning connectors required...but I couldn't find one, so I had to re-pin a lot of the kick panel connectors)
- 2012+ ICE Link harness
- 2012+ FM/AM amplifier modules, complete with the "buttons" needed to connect them to the window glass
- SDD tool to program everything so it works
- 2016 Meridian Amp (actually ended up in my 2012, but will get swapped back in...yes, my 2012 HK amp is in this vehicle)
- 2012+ premium speakers (I wanted to run really nice aftermarket ones, but I can't quite afford them yet, so, stockers it is!)
- 2012+ Factory amplifier bracket
I think that's the list of parts necessary for the swap...but it should be noted, there are instances where I have like 2 or 3 of these, cause you know, I bricked one or something. Like I said, if I knew what I was getting into...
The process:
I started by stripping the inside of the vehicle all the way down:
I basically went all the way down, but didn't disconnect the heater core or AC evaporator.
Next, I swapped in the 2012 dash harness, and then set about deciphering the wiring discrepancies between the 2010/11 and 2012+ models. it turns out, there's A LOT of them!!!! Thank goodness I had the 2016 body harness to use as a reference, and I had my 2012 LR4 to tear apart and trace things. Between the wiring diagrams, the old harness and the 2012, I was able to get everything where it was supposed to go. Again, if I could have found a 2012/13 body harness fully in tact, that would have been easier. FYI, I did have to move the CANBUS wires as they feed from opposite sides of the dash harness on a 2012+, and this meant I had to solder new connections in place. Time will tell how good a job I did at sealing them up. The CANBUS is VERY susceptible to corrosion caused resistance issues.
Then I ran the new style ICE Link harness, which feeds all the way into the shark fin antenna on top of the roof. it also connects to a module in the top center brake light. I got really lucky and didn't prep the surface enough when I swapped out my 3rd light lens so it came off easily and I was able to run the wires all the way to their respective connectors/modules. Of note, the 2010/11 runs one of its antennas/amplifiers to the upper rear tailgate door, the other is on the passenger rear window glass. I removed the door amplifier, and de-soldered the buttons from the rear glass and transferred them (as well as a new button I got with the new amplifier module to the driver's side rear glass.
Before:
After:
I'm gonna have to finish this a little later, it looks like my cable modem just died and I need to get to the store to swap it out!
More to follow when I have time to keep writing!
A little bit of background, I was thinking of doing an SCV8 swap into my wife's 2010 LR4. Because I wanted to make it even sexier, I thought I would update the Infotainment system to the aftermarket tablet one. (Maybe the AC controls too). However, at the time, swapping the tablet into the 2010/11 LR4's meant you lost any OEM system interaction capability. Aka, I couldn't access 4x4 controls or do menial things like set the clock.
And so it began....I had to pull the headliner for what I thought was a roof drain line issue. (Turns out, that was coming in from other areas.). But I thought to myself, I wonder if I could, "just swap a few modules and get it to work?" As I researched how the systems worked, and how they were wired, it because readily apparent this would not be an easy task. The dash harnesses are different, the ICE Link harness is different, ALL of the modules are different, heck, even the AM/FM radio antennas are located on different windows!
I tried to take lots of pictures, but here's the breakdown of everything I ran into/swapped out:
- 2016 touchscreen module
- 2016 Audio Unit (CD Player)
- 2013 CD slot/AC controls (yes, it's different between 2010/11 and 2012+)
- 2013 BCM
- 2013 Instrument Cluster
- 2014 KVM module
- 2014 Satelite radio module
- 2012 Dash wiring harness
- 2016 body wiring harness that I scavenged the amplifier wiring harness out of (of note, I wanted a 2012 harness because I could just swap everything out, no re-pinning connectors required...but I couldn't find one, so I had to re-pin a lot of the kick panel connectors)
- 2012+ ICE Link harness
- 2012+ FM/AM amplifier modules, complete with the "buttons" needed to connect them to the window glass
- SDD tool to program everything so it works
- 2016 Meridian Amp (actually ended up in my 2012, but will get swapped back in...yes, my 2012 HK amp is in this vehicle)
- 2012+ premium speakers (I wanted to run really nice aftermarket ones, but I can't quite afford them yet, so, stockers it is!)
- 2012+ Factory amplifier bracket
I think that's the list of parts necessary for the swap...but it should be noted, there are instances where I have like 2 or 3 of these, cause you know, I bricked one or something. Like I said, if I knew what I was getting into...
The process:
I started by stripping the inside of the vehicle all the way down:
I basically went all the way down, but didn't disconnect the heater core or AC evaporator.
Next, I swapped in the 2012 dash harness, and then set about deciphering the wiring discrepancies between the 2010/11 and 2012+ models. it turns out, there's A LOT of them!!!! Thank goodness I had the 2016 body harness to use as a reference, and I had my 2012 LR4 to tear apart and trace things. Between the wiring diagrams, the old harness and the 2012, I was able to get everything where it was supposed to go. Again, if I could have found a 2012/13 body harness fully in tact, that would have been easier. FYI, I did have to move the CANBUS wires as they feed from opposite sides of the dash harness on a 2012+, and this meant I had to solder new connections in place. Time will tell how good a job I did at sealing them up. The CANBUS is VERY susceptible to corrosion caused resistance issues.
Then I ran the new style ICE Link harness, which feeds all the way into the shark fin antenna on top of the roof. it also connects to a module in the top center brake light. I got really lucky and didn't prep the surface enough when I swapped out my 3rd light lens so it came off easily and I was able to run the wires all the way to their respective connectors/modules. Of note, the 2010/11 runs one of its antennas/amplifiers to the upper rear tailgate door, the other is on the passenger rear window glass. I removed the door amplifier, and de-soldered the buttons from the rear glass and transferred them (as well as a new button I got with the new amplifier module to the driver's side rear glass.
Before:
After:
I'm gonna have to finish this a little later, it looks like my cable modem just died and I need to get to the store to swap it out!
More to follow when I have time to keep writing!
