Finally finished, Bosch for Denso Infotainment Swap

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Tapps33

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Let me start this post by saying, if I knew then what I know now, I NEVER would have started this project!! It would literally be cheaper and easier to buy a used 2012/13 with a blown engine life the body, roll my 2010 driveline underneath and go on my merry way!!!!!

A little bit of background, I was thinking of doing an SCV8 swap into my wife's 2010 LR4. Because I wanted to make it even sexier, I thought I would update the Infotainment system to the aftermarket tablet one. (Maybe the AC controls too). However, at the time, swapping the tablet into the 2010/11 LR4's meant you lost any OEM system interaction capability. Aka, I couldn't access 4x4 controls or do menial things like set the clock.

And so it began....I had to pull the headliner for what I thought was a roof drain line issue. (Turns out, that was coming in from other areas.). But I thought to myself, I wonder if I could, "just swap a few modules and get it to work?" As I researched how the systems worked, and how they were wired, it because readily apparent this would not be an easy task. The dash harnesses are different, the ICE Link harness is different, ALL of the modules are different, heck, even the AM/FM radio antennas are located on different windows!

I tried to take lots of pictures, but here's the breakdown of everything I ran into/swapped out:

- 2016 touchscreen module
- 2016 Audio Unit (CD Player)
- 2013 CD slot/AC controls (yes, it's different between 2010/11 and 2012+)
- 2013 BCM
- 2013 Instrument Cluster
- 2014 KVM module
- 2014 Satelite radio module
- 2012 Dash wiring harness
- 2016 body wiring harness that I scavenged the amplifier wiring harness out of (of note, I wanted a 2012 harness because I could just swap everything out, no re-pinning connectors required...but I couldn't find one, so I had to re-pin a lot of the kick panel connectors)
- 2012+ ICE Link harness
- 2012+ FM/AM amplifier modules, complete with the "buttons" needed to connect them to the window glass
- SDD tool to program everything so it works
- 2016 Meridian Amp (actually ended up in my 2012, but will get swapped back in...yes, my 2012 HK amp is in this vehicle)
- 2012+ premium speakers (I wanted to run really nice aftermarket ones, but I can't quite afford them yet, so, stockers it is!)
- 2012+ Factory amplifier bracket

I think that's the list of parts necessary for the swap...but it should be noted, there are instances where I have like 2 or 3 of these, cause you know, I bricked one or something. Like I said, if I knew what I was getting into...

The process:

I started by stripping the inside of the vehicle all the way down:

IMG_1063.jpeg


I basically went all the way down, but didn't disconnect the heater core or AC evaporator.

Next, I swapped in the 2012 dash harness, and then set about deciphering the wiring discrepancies between the 2010/11 and 2012+ models. it turns out, there's A LOT of them!!!! Thank goodness I had the 2016 body harness to use as a reference, and I had my 2012 LR4 to tear apart and trace things. Between the wiring diagrams, the old harness and the 2012, I was able to get everything where it was supposed to go. Again, if I could have found a 2012/13 body harness fully in tact, that would have been easier. FYI, I did have to move the CANBUS wires as they feed from opposite sides of the dash harness on a 2012+, and this meant I had to solder new connections in place. Time will tell how good a job I did at sealing them up. The CANBUS is VERY susceptible to corrosion caused resistance issues.

Then I ran the new style ICE Link harness, which feeds all the way into the shark fin antenna on top of the roof. it also connects to a module in the top center brake light. I got really lucky and didn't prep the surface enough when I swapped out my 3rd light lens so it came off easily and I was able to run the wires all the way to their respective connectors/modules. Of note, the 2010/11 runs one of its antennas/amplifiers to the upper rear tailgate door, the other is on the passenger rear window glass. I removed the door amplifier, and de-soldered the buttons from the rear glass and transferred them (as well as a new button I got with the new amplifier module to the driver's side rear glass.

Before:
IMG_0579.jpeg


After:

IMG_0580.jpeg


I'm gonna have to finish this a little later, it looks like my cable modem just died and I need to get to the store to swap it out!
More to follow when I have time to keep writing!
 

Tapps33

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Sorry, the cable modem was fine, power was just out. (Switched to my hotspot to get the last post up, but then had to deal with the outage then travel.).

Ok, where was I...

So, now I have the new ICE LINk harness run, I've transplanted the amplifier wiring harness out of the 2016 cabin harness and into my 2010. I've mounted the new amp on the bracket in the passenger rear quarter panel. FYI, I think that was one of the hardest parts to source....no one has one, and they look at you like you're crazy if you ask for it. Anyway, I fitted the new SDARS satellite radio module in place, it too bolts up to the amplifier bracket. I moved my KVM module as the amp bracket also holds that module. The 2010 KVM has its own bracket so that had to be removed, but it's just a couple bolts, no biggie. Here's a couple of pics:

Here's the original 2010 setup:

IMG_0528.jpeg


And, the 2012+ setup:

IMG_0534.jpeg


Here's the difference in the Satellite modules:

IMG_0574.jpeg


FYI, that's the KVM module in the picture. The Sat radio module mounts right above it, and then the amp, just to the right on the bracket.

I this point, I have all the speakers swapped out for an eBay 2012+ set. Yes, the stock 2010 probably would have been fine, but the 2012+ amp is almost twice the power output, so I thought it best to swap the speakers out with an OE set. In truth, I really wanted to swap them all out for aftermarket, Audio Frog makes a great speaker that'll swap the center and rear quarter surrounds, and Focal make some great door component sets. Unfortunately, I priced them all out and wasn't willing to spend $2000 on speakers.

And here's where everything started to get REALLY crazy. As if all the repining of wires to ensure everything went where it's supposed to, then I ran into some module and software issues.

The 2010/11 BCM and the 2012+ BCM ARE NOT the same. I thought I could cheat and simply use a jumper to bypass the audio system relay in the 2010 BCM, but that didn't work. So, I tried to install a brand new 2013 BCM in the hopes that I could get my 2010's VIN burned into it so everything would match.....yeah, no, that TOTALLY didn't work. It did however, brick the brand new BCM. thankfully I only paid $450 for it, and then another $350 in an attempt to get it fixed. So, back to the drawing board. I then decided I needed to update to a 2013 BCM and then smooth the rest of the system out. I had already swapped my Instrument cluster for a 2013 model as the instrument cluster is the CNABUS gateway that talks to the MOST bus....of which the touchscreen is the gateway for the CANBUS to MOST bus communication. The IPC was easy to swap with a simple EEPROM reader/writer. It allowed me to copy the exact security, VIN and mileage. So, I then swapped the used 2013 BCM into the vehicle and was able to get it programmed to the car. Here's the catch, the BCM is pretty much what drives the "identity" of the car. So, now my LR4 thinks it's a 2013 LR4, and electronically has a brand new VIN. (I told you it got weird). Anyway, I recoded the instrument cluster to match the BCM, only to find out that the 2010 KVM isn't 100% compatible with the 2013 BCM....so, I bought a used KVM, flashed it into the system and all works well....except now I have a ton of ABS, suspension and transmission faults. Which is because....the 2010 ABS module and the 2013 BCM are not compatible at all. (At least the 2010 KVM worked and let the car start). Soooo, I ordered a used, but "reconditioned" 2013 ABS module and flashed that to the system and voila!!! My suspension works, the ABS faults had all gone away and all was well!

The only faults left in my system are VIN mismatch faults for the ABS module, driver's seat module, HVAC module and a headlight module. (not both, just one...I have no idea why).

So, the final issue I just recently solved was the fact that while all the functionality was there for the infotainment system, the buttons were invisible...but, you could see them when you adjusted the volume. Oh, they worked if you pushed them, you just had to know where they were. Anyway, I finally figured out my touchscreen had some sort of internal failure in it. (It was a used module so I'm not shocked by this fact!).

Here's what it looked like:

IMG_0180.jpeg


But here's what it looked like when you adjust the volume:

75580806189__7C34F38F-8F87-4BCD-85D2-5D7E6F6B3E81.jpeg



Wrapping this post up, cause it's crazy long, I have been successful in the transplant. HOWEVER!!!! this definitely falls into the category of not at all worth it. I definitely bricked 2 BCMs, 2 touchscreens, 1 audio unit, wrecked 2 wiring harnesses, and have TONS of extra parts. This is especially since it looks like they have released some new CarPlay modules that work with the 2010/11 system, totally erasing the main reason I started this project. Obviously there have been A LOT of lessons learned, but I can honestly say, if I knew what I was getting into, I never would have started. It would literally have been a lot cheaper and easier and faster to buy a 2012/13 with a blown engine, lift the body and drop it on my 2010 driveline. I started this project in November of 2023, and just last week solved the display issue. (In my defense I also rebuilt the SCV8 engine and transmission, packed my house and moved and sent my 2010 off to college with my kid...so life's been a little hectic.)

At the end of the day, it CAN be done....it just doesn't really need to be! Now, I can finally focus all my efforts on getting the SCV8 LR4 back together and on the road!! Cause I've got some fun plans for that one! (Just don't tell my wife how much I've spent, and am going to spend on it!!!....or this project for that matter!)

I'll let y'all know when I solve the reversed camera image issue.
 

Tapps33

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Quick update, and also as an FYI. I did some research on the whole "reversed image" thing, and it turns out there's a TSB out there from JLR for it. It sounds like at some point the camera failed internally...I'm sure it had something to do with all my crazy swaps and plug ins and what not, but such is life. Anyway, I've ordered a used replacement and will let y'all know how it goes when I get it installed.

Here's the TSB:


Screenshot 2025-01-16 at 12.46.13 PM.png
 

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