For those that offroad their LR4...a few questions before I pull the trigger

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Rkymtnman

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New here...been reading all I can consume for the past several weeks. I am reasonably sure I have the answers I am looking for but figured it can't hurt to ask a few questions. Yesterday I finally managed to find what I have been looking for...a 2013 LR4 with the HD package without a pile of miles on it and a verifiable service history.

I am buying this thing to off road it though it will be my daily. I am close to Moab and the trails of western Colorado and 8 trips (at least) a year are what we typically do. Top of the world, Poison Spider, fins, engineer pass, Imogene, black bear, etc. Coming off an armored 3rd gen 4runner with a 3" lift, rear locker and 33's that we built from the ground up. That will be my Son's ride now. I need more comfort (I'm old), power (3rd gen is a DOG) and a civilized ride over the highway.

I have no intention of putting it in places it has no business going but i do intend to use it to its abilities. For those of you who use these rigs in a similar fashion, tell me the best things you have done to yours to increase you off road enjoyment. Thinking rods, tires (alignment) and we'll fab up a set of sliders first, then skid plates and eventually bumpers.

Also interested in what trail spares are recommended since I have never dealt with air suspensions in the past. Looking forward to building this up and enjoying the ride. TIA
 

avslash

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Engineer, Imogene, Black Bear, Poughkeepsie Gulch, Cinnamon, Pearl Pass, Devil's Punchbowl, etc... mine has been through all of those places.

Sliders and skid plates. A must. The compressor is fairly low under the truck and must be protected. Height is the limiting factor in offroading these trucks. A very typical strategy on many obstacles is to just get a front tire up on the obstacle and then drag the rest of the truck over it where you know you have armor to deal with it.

Wheels/Tires. The factory wheels and tires on these are an absolute mall-crawling joke. With proper mods you can run up to about a 33.5" tire on 18" wheels. The requisite mods are well documented here if you search.

Strategy to deal with an air suspension failure. Mine is muli-faceted. I have a IID Tool, a GOE emergency air kit installed, an on-board compressor. the Proud Rhino strut spacers installed and I still carry a spare front and rear air strut and extra air tubing and fittings in my spares kit.

Locker. At least the rear, if not the front and rear.

I'm a bit pressed for time now (daughters dance recital day), but if you are interested, I will try and list out all of the mods I have done to mine later.

Here is mine from several years ago crawling up "the wall" at Poughkeepsie gulch. Pardon my buddy's gooberish commentary.


As she sits now...

Rover 1.jpg


Rover 2.jpg


Rover 3.jpg
 

Rkymtnman

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outstanding. Thank you for the reply....supremely helpful. Rear locker will be on the '13 as part of the hd package so that should be covered. I will absolutely add some on board air - if for no other reason than to re-inflate at the end of the trail. Figured that could be leveraged in case of failure.

the sliders I will fab myself. Did have my eye on the tactical front bumper initially - eventually I'll add the rear. I would be interested in how to fit 33-1/2's. Only real "good information" I have come across is the johnson rod approach so definitely need more research in to that. What I saw from them claimed a 31.5" is all you could fit with their product - assumed that might be without other tweaks and remaining conservative. I find 33's to be sufficient for the majority of what I will be running so had that in mind as a goal. Used to have a triple locked FJ80 with 35's...it was a blast but I have definitely slowed and aged since then...

Really looking forward to starting this project in the coming weeks. Guess that tells me what I need and I'll try to make a deal on this '13 I found tomorrow.

thanks again
 

avslash

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Tires are the biggest hassle to deal with on these trucks. If you do a quick search, you will see pages and pages and pages of discussion on this forum and the other major ones.

To distill it down, to save you hours of reading, I think I can state the following without anyone vociferously disagreeing with me.

18 inch wheels. You can choose from Compomotive PD1881, Possibly the new Dakar Corse (no one has seen these mounted yet) the factory LR3 18 inch wheels with a 1.25 inch spacer or various steel alternatives (also with a spacer). Note that some caliper grinding is also a possible necessity with some of these choices.

Frame Horns. Look at the rear of the front wheel wells, and you will see some protrusions from the frame rail. If you wish to go above 265/65R18, these will need to be cut off and patched over.

Suspension wiring harness in drivers front wheel well. Pull out the factory connectors and zip tie this thing up out of the wheel travel arc.

Body flanges in both rear wheel wells. When the suspension compresses the rear wheels move forward as well as up. Under each of the rear fender liners on the front side of the well, you will see a body flange mating surface that looks a bit like a shark fin. Take an angle grinder and cut these off. Finish it up with some spray paint of your choice.

Rear heater hoses in passenger rear wheel well. You will see these when you address the body flange. These need to be cut and rerouted so that they are not abraded by the rear passenger tire when the suspension is compressed. The factory lines are aluminum, and require a tubing cutter. There is plenty of space to re-route 5/8 heater hose where it will not be in the way.

Heat gunning. Take a heat gun and re-shape the factory wheel liners where necessary.

With the above mods you can run 275/65R18 (32.1) without issue. I can verify this first hand, after running them for years, at this point. There are guys who are running 275/70R18 (33.2). These will be my next set, but I am relaying anecdotal experience here, not my own experience. 265/70R18 and 265/60R18 should not give you any issues either. I would be cautious going above a 275 width on an 18 inch wheel on these trucks. I also would not consider anything less than an E rated tire. These things are heavy, especially once you start modding them.
 

ryanjl

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@avslash, that Poughkeepsie Gulch video of yours is one of the things that made me decide to get a LR4.

To the OP, I've run a lot of the trails in the San Juans with my 19" wheels and Cooper Zeon tires. But 18" wheels are in my future, as is better protection for my compressor and air tank.

The lift rods aren't really needed unless you go full ham with off-road modifications, which would include the Proud Rhino strut spacers that AVSlash runs.

Regardless, welcome to the forum. It's good to see more users who aspire to use these things to their full capabilities.
 

Nechaken

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Tires are the biggest hassle to deal with on these trucks. If you do a quick search, you will see pages and pages and pages of discussion on this forum and the other major ones.

To distill it down, to save you hours of reading, I think I can state the following without anyone vociferously disagreeing with me.

18 inch wheels. You can choose from Compomotive PD1881, Possibly the new Dakar Corse (no one has seen these mounted yet) the factory LR3 18 inch wheels with a 1.25 inch spacer or various steel alternatives (also with a spacer). Note that some caliper grinding is also a possible necessity with some of these choices.

Frame Horns. Look at the rear of the front wheel wells, and you will see some protrusions from the frame rail. If you wish to go above 265/65R18, these will need to be cut off and patched over.



I believe the Tuffant wheels can work without a spacer installed... supposed to be the same offset as the Compos.

As for frame horns -- any thoughts on if removing those will affect the crashworthiness of the vehicle ? They look as if they would deflect the tire outward in the event of a frontal collision.


 

mbw

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I just want to go on record and say.. read what avslash said again and remember that 'rods' of any kind (especially the lying johnson rods guy) will NOT fix fitment issues. They change the at-rest position of the air struts but don't change the maximum down or up travel of the strut... therefore DO NOT have anything to do with tire fitment.

I also worry about busting CV's and having the truck jacked up with rods isn't going to help CV angles. I wonder if anyone here has thoughts on the CV strength? I'd consider carrying spare CV before air bags.. i really don't worry about those much. Air line leaks, at the distribution blocks or compressor/tank.. sure, but has anyone seen a burst bag on the trail?

Also, as far as skids.. The Tactical 4x4 stuff is super stought... probably overkill.. but great for sliders, gas tank skid and transfer case. I just put the ASFIR rear diff (And exhaust pipe) guard on and I like it. Good fitment (although I did have to cut the T44 gas tank skid a bit because it shares a bolt with the asfir). Its pretty light weight also. I kinda wish all my skids were that light.

Those damn exhaust pipes stick down below the suspension arms in the rear...

IMG_20190518_141537-X3.jpg
 

mbw

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And for the front bar. The Tactical 4x4 is going to have better approach angles, its tighter to the grill... however I think the ARB is designed to a much higher standard and I think it looks better. For actually protecting against an animal strike I also vote ARB. My rear bumper is the T44 with dual swings. its great.. but heavy. It doesn't even replace the heavy steel factory bumper.. just goes over it... ugh.

IMG_20190409_165611-X3.jpg
 

ryanjl

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Is anyone using anything under the transmission?

I looked at Tactical's stuff, but didn't see anything that really addresses the under-transmission part specifically, but maybe one of the other skids they have also goes under the transmission. I haven't seen a picture of anything, at least.

The transmission is up so high relative to everything else, it's unlikely to really need a "skid," but probably maybe more likely something to protect it from a rock flying up and hitting it.
 

mbw

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The T44 transfer case skid does cover the transmission, it just protrudes back past the cross member and also protects the transfer case.

It goes from the factory skid all the way back past the transfer case.

I can get better photos if you need, just let me know.

IMG_20180303_151150-XL.jpg
 

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