Fuel Gauge Stuck on Empty

[fawcett_chad]

I have found a handful of other threads on this, but nothing too current, so I thought I'd start a new one.

The family and I were taking the LR3 east across Colorado headed to Kansas to visit family. The LR3 was not happy about heading east and away from the mountains I guess, and suddenly out of the blue the fuel gauge dropped from 3/4ths of the way full to right above empty and then over the course of a minute it dropped down all the way and showed 0 miles of range. Throttle response is normal, and it still is giving me the MPG average, which has been normal.

From what I've been reading it seems as though one (or both) of the fuel level sensors may need replaced.

Has anyone else had this happen and found another fix besides dropping the fuel tank and seeing if I can replace the sensors?

I saw someone mentioned in an old forum that the R8 fuse was for the fuel pump. If that was bad I'd have trouble with getting fuel to the engine right?

I've done a little work on this beast already (replaced starter 5 months back), but I'm a little nervous about this job. Any advice? Any recommendations for independent shops in Northern Colorado/Greeley area that might do the work for a reasonable rate?

Thanks!

 

[jwest]

Any advice? Any recommendations for independent shops in Northern Colorado/Greeley area that might do the work for a reasonable rate?

Thanks!

I've never heard of this issue but you might also try disco web forum. not as much lr3 traffic there but some very knowledgeable people who DIY.

If nothing else, also ask on expedition portal for shop names in your area.

 

[Trynian]

If you are not really good at these things, best to just take it in. It does sound like a sensor failure but can also be a grounding short. I have had both. Sensor failure is most likely. Rear sensor is easy to change, front sensor is tough but can be done if you are tall and lean like me. Hardest part is getting all the fuel out of the tank.

 

[Codename Duchess]

The most fun is getting all the fuel out

In all seriousness though, something similar happened to me, essentially the gauge would not drop past 3/4. It was like this for a few weeks.

One day I parked on a steep incline nose down, and magically it repaired itself.

Never had a problem since.

 

[proslambanomenos]

i had this very same problem. i hopped in and my gauge read empty, light on. i was angry because i thought someone had siphoned my gas. little did i know that would've been the cheaper problem.

turns out the front sending unit went bad. my local dealer had just closed down and the nearest is now a ways away--very inconvenient to get to, so i had this harebrained idea to let a well-regarded local independent do the work. he fixed that problem, surely enough, but introduced a few more tank problems that are more problematic--including that my needle is always wrong--registers 3/4 of a tank when i'm almost empty, among others. anyway, another story for another day.

good luck, and let us know what you find out!

 

[fawcett_chad]

As a long overdue update: A few months ago I pulled the tank off of the LR3, not too hard of a task, but it always seems like there's one more bolt that you missed. Once I got it loose and was able to drop it, I encountered the wiring and the cap on top. I was a little nervous about the job as it was, and decided I didn't want to risk screwing anything up, so after jiggling the wires a little bit and verifying that all the external connectors were secure, I just put the tank back in place. I powered up the beast hoping that just jostling things around a bit would have fixed the problem, but nope, still stuck on empty.

Fast forward to today. After months of estimating how much gas I've got in the tank (haven't ran out yet) I finally contacted the Flatirons Land Rover service center and he responded saying it probably is the sending unit, and that the connectors inside the tank also tend to corrode and they usually replace those as well. He said worst case scenario (not sure what that means exactly, or what the best case scenario is...) cost will be $975. I was kind of surprised to get a number without them actually looking at it. I probably will bite the bullet and let the professionals handle this one.

 

[toddjb122]

Thanks for the update, Chad, and sorry to hear about this one.

I have also heard that repairs inside the tank are a pain in the butt. When mine was new there was some recall related to a pump or something in the tank (I forget what) and the service techs were complaining what a pain it is to work inside this tank.

 

[Trynian]

Reading the fault codes will tell you if it is a sending unit. It will say either unit 1 or 2. If it is a grounding failure the gauge will not say empty but give all sorts of funky readings accompanied by random check brake pad warnings.

A complete new fuel tank with the front sensor installed runs about $800 and a couple hours labor to install.

 

[fawcett_chad]

Thanks for that info Trynian. Sitting at LR Flatirons right now, waiting on oil change. Was gonna have them look at the gas gauge issue but decided not too when they said it would cost $100 (just for the analysis). I'm too cheap. I guess the thing is that it is driving fine and it's simple math to figure out the range based off of the MPG and miles driven, so I don't want to put money into an issue that isn't that big of a problem. I might just take the gamble and buy the sending units and get back into the tank again and see if I can fix it myself. As was said on this forum as well as others, the front unit can be changed if you are anatomically suited to it, so hopefully I can avoid replacing the entire tank.

 

[Trynian]

Thanks for that info Trynian. Sitting at LR Flatirons right now, waiting on oil change. Was gonna have them look at the gas gauge issue but decided not too when they said it would cost $100 (just for the analysis). I'm too cheap. I guess the thing is that it is driving fine and it's simple math to figure out the range based off of the MPG and miles driven, so I don't want to put money into an issue that isn't that big of a problem. I might just take the gamble and buy the sending units and get back into the tank again and see if I can fix it myself. As was said on this forum as well as others, the front unit can be changed if you are anatomically suited to it, so hopefully I can avoid replacing the entire tank.

More then likely it is one of the sensors, like I mentioned in other posts I am 6'2" and a lean build so I can change out the front sensor in the tank.

If you are lucky and it is a rear sensor that would be an easy fix.