Heater core swap

[tvanstee]

Hi all,

My 2011 LR4 has been giving some grief in terms of cabin heat. It blows real nice and hot when above 1200 rpm but below that, specifically at idle, it blows ambient temp. I've tried the flushing method with setting up a circulation pump and pushing clr and hot water back and forth through the core, but it didn't do solve it. The drivers side is the main trouble area as well as the rear heat.

Any guidance on how to access the front heater core? I am having trouble pulling that trim piece on the middle console where it hides behind. Also, will swapping this core out help the rear heat as well?

Located in western Canada so low heat is a real no go, although the heated seats go a long way.

Thanks

 

[Rover Range]

Sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system.

With the engine running and operating temperature.
Check the coolant hoses going into the heater core. Should be almost the same temperature. If one side is cooler, would indicate a restriction in the heater core.

 

[tvanstee]

Yeah I thought the same, I checked the hoses right next to the glove box and one in piping hot while the other is about room temp.

 

[Tapps33]

Unfortunately, to access the front heater core, the entire....and I mean entire dash comes out. Which also means you have to disconnect your AC evaporator lines as well.

From the sound of things, I would agree it sounds like a sir pocket, or some sort of blockage. Have you looked inside the coolant reservoir? Is there any junk in it? Have you recently swapped coolant or something?

Full disclosure, I never manually bleed this system, I always vacuum fill it and have never had an air bubble. (If you don't have one, I highly recommend you buy a kit, or even just put one together with parts from Harbor Freight...seriously, a friend of mine did it and it worked great.).
If you don't have a vacuum filler, if memory serves, I believe there's a bleeder valve in the return hose...right near the battery...ish? (Sorry, it's been a hot minute since I've looked at it, and both of my LR4's are not here right now.)

 

[Longtrail]

You're correct; there's a bleeder as indicated here:

I have the vacuum fill process in my not so distant future but have never done it yet... Still need to figure this out along with 43,000,000 other things!

 

[Tapps33]

You're correct; there's a bleeder as indicated here:

View attachment 25378

I have the vacuum fill process in my not so distant future but have never done it yet... Still need to figure this out along with 43,000,000 other things!

Ha! So I'm not going crazy!

As for the vacuum fill process, it's REALLY easy. Full disclosure, I bought the AIR LIFT kit off FCP Euro...wasn't the cheapest, but it's very effective! Plus I used parts and a few extras I bought to switch it from vacuum to pressure so I can pressure check as well). Anyway, you simply fit the little rubber grommet and gauge into the reservoir tighten the collar to expand the rubber grommet for a good seal, then hook up you air hose and open the valve. It should pull roughly -27ish psi (or was it inches Hg) anyway, then just let it sit for 30-60 minutes to make sure you've got a good seal in the system, then swap the vacuum tube for the "fill tube" and then open the valve and it'll suck the coolant into every crevice the system!

 

[Longtrail]

Thank you for the help, I bough this Airlift kit on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They look somewhat similar; I need to go read the manual!

 

[Tapps33]

Thank you for the help, I bough this Airlift kit on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They look somewhat similar; I need to go read the manual!

I think it’s the same kit I bought…and yeah, I think I paid like $150 or $200 for mine. It’s not cheap, but it makes life SOOOO much easier!!

 

[djkaosone]

I have this kit (hyperlinked) and it's been good to me.

 

[timc930]

Just pulled the complete dash in 2015 to replace the Evaporator down to the firewall. Not a bad job, just take your time. I followed the manual and it was pretty straight forward. I only disconnected the wiring harness from the Dr side, laid it over on the pass side, and lifted the metal dash frame thru the part of the harness that I left connected on Pass side. Two people make this easier so one can watch all the wiring on the pass side while it's lifted out.

I did remove the seats just to allow for plenty of room, I've seen YT videos of leaving the seats in place.

any questions just email me....