Help Requested with Suspension Issues with 2006 SC L322

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

aphorton

New Member
Joined
May 25, 2019
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Florida, USA
Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a 2006 Supercharged L322, with 148,000 miles on it. It seemed in decent shape overall, and a solid buy, but came without any service history. In any event, she's mine now
nMeiqRAA9H_bpUZRwuwgldYoMKX2NRekDDVRJzbHTR_SDqC0L_6gPPPLo7M3SLQ96p_TPmE6aeif3Vk4lTP2aoXrfvBQRFeOxZ4-qLtVRdiTpg=s0-d-e1-ft


Now, please be advised this is my first post here and I will be the first to admit, although I have done some reading I have not yet read all previous posts related to the diagnostic codes and symptoms I am experiencing. I am posting this in the hopes that someone may be able to offer some assistance for further diagnosis based on what I know so far. I do intend to continue reading the historical posts here, and in turn, document my DIY efforts so that other members may benefit from them in time.

Here's what I know so far:

At first the suspension appeared be operating fine. Normal right height appeared level and adjusted properly at each height from the manual control in the cockpit.

In time, with the car parked overnight I noticed that it appeared to be lower on the passenger (right) side, especially in the front. This condition quickly cleared itself when the car started and did not appear to be present every morning, so I did not think too much of it.

I was driving the car a short distance home recently, and the "vehicle lifting slowly" notification appeared on the dash, which was followed by the "suspension fault" and the "max speed 30 miles per hour" notifications. I'm not entirely certain of the exact phrasing of the next notification, but it said something to the effect of "lifting will resume when cooled".

I parked the car to let it cool and when I came back to it, it appeared to be sitting very low indeed.
NHcDuIHLQyKWt2ViLWqf0A.jpg
NHcDuIHLQyKWt2ViLWqf0A.jpg


I got into the car, started it and walked around the outside. At the passenger (right) side of the vehicle I could hear a loud hissing sound, but as the car was on the drive, I couldn't determine much more about the source of the sound. I have since learned that there is an air supply line distribution block located in this general area in addition to the air spring assembly for the strut.

When driven (very short distances for testing), the car does seem to be able to adjust off the bump stops, but cycles through the same notifications on the dash I detailed above.

I removed the cover to check the compressor and it is being activated (coming on) at start up as one would expect. It basically runs until the "suspension fault" notification appears on the dash. Interestingly, the compressor is not the Hitachi model I anticipated. It is instead the AMK version.


One thing that struck me as unusual is there seems to be a white, powdery residue where (what I assume to be) the dryer connects to its mount. Any idea what this substance might be and whether it indicates a problem?


As I mentioned, the compressor does come on and runs until the "suspension fault" notification is displayed on the dash.

I have since purchased an IIDTool BT and have the following codes related to the suspension:

RLM-Suspension
  • C1A36-01 (2E) Exhaust valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
    ( on 25-05-2019 14:12:51 at 238918 km )
  • C1A18-64 (2E) Pressure increases too rapid when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
    ( on 25-05-2019 14:11:18 at 238917 km )
  • C1130-7A (2E) Air spring air supply - Mechanical failure - fluid leak or seal failure
    ( on 25-05-2019 14:12:41 at 238918 km )

I have just started working with the IIDTool but I did see that the firmware was still set to the Hitachi firmware and not the AMK firmware.

That's pretty much where I am at this point. I imagine I am going to have to spend a fair amount of money to address this problem, and I know there are some people that would immediately go the coil over replacement route. While i'm not intending to do much in the way of off roading, it is more appealing to me to keep the vehicle as designed with the air suspension system intact, even if that means having to purchase remanufactured components, or if I have to rebuild existing components myself.

And that's where I am am looking for a little help. Given what I have outlined above, what course of action should I now take to further troubleshoot the problem ahead of ordering replacement parts? Ideally, I want to be back on the road by next weekend.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Andy
 

aphorton

New Member
Joined
May 25, 2019
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Florida, USA
My apologies for the double posted images. I tried to remove one, but the system didn't like that :/ . I'll do better next time, I promise :)
 

joey

Custom Rover Accessories
Staff member
Joined
Jun 28, 2004
Posts
10,471
Reaction score
181
First the issue is more than likely a bad air bag, probably time to replace all four. Do not drive it till you replace them, unless you also want to replace the compressor.
 
Joined
May 28, 2019
Posts
6
Reaction score
1
Location
USA
I'm new as well, but I've done quite a lot of reading on the L322's, since that's what I'm looking for right now. If you're going to stay with the air suspension, which would be my preference as well, you're going to be replacing at least the bags every few years, the material just cracks and leaks over time. It's a recurring wear item. With the mileage and age of your truck they've been replaced at least once, probably twice. It looks like your compressor was replaced sometime after 2014. So I'm guessing it was replaced because a previous owner didn't replace leaky bags, and burned the last one up.

The right side tends to go first, but as recommended by Joey, you need to go ahead and replace at least the front two. Because if the left isn't leaking already, it'll soon follow the right. The rears tend to last a bit longer, then fronts. At least that's what I've read. But you probably need to go ahead and plan on replacing them as well. And I wouldn't use the vehicle until you've done this, or you will be replacing your 5 year old compressor as well.

The operation is fairly simple and straightforward, a person with modest mechanical skills should be able to handle it fairly easy. Of course you can go OEM, but I personally would look at alternatives. Do your homework.

These videos will give you some idea of what's involved.


 

kevclizzle

New Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Posts
4
Reaction score
0
APHORTON,

Before you change those airbags, I’d go over he “airlines” and connections throughout our L322.

I have a 2005 L322 and I went through the roller coaster ride of expensive parts, thieving dealerships etc,.

Recently I was having the same issues.

Wake up every morning and L322 is sitting low in front drivers side.

Everyone said change the airbag!!!

I too had a high temperatures compressor. That was due to it over working.

Let me just get to the point; there was a small hole in he airline that had a slow leak. I don’t have the pictures here but if you have Instagram you can see the photo of the airline on el_three_two_two.

Check everything before spending on new airbags.
 

CarBazaarFL

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2019
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Palm Bay FL
Spray the front right air spring portion of the strut with a solution of soap and water - then look for bubbles. 9 out of 10 times it is the air spring. They are rubber and eventually will dry rot just like your belts, hoses and tires. You should spray all of the struts and around the air lines just to make sure you don't have other "about to fail" springs since they tend to go out at almost the same time. Test and Fix this quickly with a new air spring (you don't need the entire strut unless it has high miles) or you will have to replace the air $uspension compre$$or al$o.
 

brad carlton

Member
Joined
May 28, 2019
Posts
11
Reaction score
4
Location
Florida USA
Also, the suspension valve solenoid can sometimes fail. It should hold air and not allow it to back flow out of pump. A slow leak will refill upon start up but will wear out pump and cost you for a replacement at some point. Spray the top of air strut with soapy water and see if its leaking. Also spray the strut itself and see if you hear a hiss. If that fails consider the solenoid valve leaking on that leg of system. If its not apparent, it will be a little frustrating sorting the leak. Its likely the air bag in the strut. There is a rebuilder in South Florida, RMT Suspension Parts, but Arnott are probably the best out there. Did my Jag, rides really nice.
 
Last edited:

Andy66

New Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2019
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Northern Illinois
I just replaced the front right side strut (2007 HSE) and now the transmission is struggling. I’m getting a mix of a short grinding noise shifting into park and reverse and drive will sporadically work and not work. I worry I disconnected or misaligned the half shaft while heating out the lower bolts on the strut. I tilted the top of the hub outward so I could get the torch on the hub around the bolt. Is it possible to disconnect the drive shaft by pulling on the hub?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,223
Posts
217,600
Members
30,474
Latest member
sawcut
Top