High Output Alternator for LR3

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Needing to replace the 200k mile now-howling alternator on the 2008 LR3 v8. Looking at options for higher output than the stock model. Will be adding more and more electronics, charging stations, lights, *****, etc over time and feel like the stock alt and battery setup barely takes care of the factory load. Dual battery setup coming soon and Thinking an overland trailer will likely happen next year. Will likely have solar assistance on the trailer but want to make sure I’m planning ahead so the truck has some power available to send back there if needed.

Any experience with this upgrade? Recommendations?

Looking at this one, but not sold just yet. https://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=146372&navsid1=1445&navsid2=146371
 

BendRover123

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I installed one from quality power:

Item #: 11206-240A

So far so good, you do have to swap the pulley from the OEM original with the one they give you with the quality power alternator that won't fit.


Needing to replace the 200k mile now-howling alternator on the 2008 LR3 v8. Looking at options for higher output than the stock model. Will be adding more and more electronics, charging stations, lights, *****, etc over time and feel like the stock alt and battery setup barely takes care of the factory load. Dual battery setup coming soon and Thinking an overland trailer will likely happen next year. Will likely have solar assistance on the trailer but want to make sure I’m planning ahead so the truck has some power available to send back there if needed.

Any experience with this upgrade? Recommendations?

Looking at this one, but not sold just yet. https://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=146372&navsid1=1445&navsid2=146371
 
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You just got 200,000 miles out of the OEM alternator. Let that sink in...

yes, I’m sold out on these rovers. If you take care of them and do preventative and preemptive service and repairs, the quality of the build really starts to show. I’m grateful to drive vehicles that have character, personality, and even The eccentric quirkinesses Our rovers have! And to really get to know the incredible design and thought that went into these beasts. I’m rarely one to replace OEM with aftermarket alternatives without a ton of research and understanding. There’s a reason LR does EVERYTHING they do.
 
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So to update everyone, yesterday I received my new alternator from Power Bastards, and installed it last night. The process went seamlessly well and the new part was a perfect fit. Drove it last night to test it, and ran errands today and it’s doing great so far. Similar to when you replace a battery in these LR3’s, and everything works better with the new battery, I found the same with the new alternator.

I was hoping my TPMS signal issue was going to magically go away, but as of yet it’s still there... guess I need to look into that more now.

I’ll update in a week or so to let y’all know how the Alternator is doing.
 

gsxr

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Keep in mind that alternators have TWO ratings. One is peak output at a specified RPM. The other is the output at idle RPM. This will vary somewhat depending on the pulley size. Often, "high output" alternators sacrifice idle output, in exchange for peak output.

If you need more current while driving down the road, or while holding the engine up at ~2000 RPM, fine. But if you want the higher current at idle, the "high output" unit might actually be worse.

In the photo below of a Bosch 150A, the rating shown means 90A at idle, 150A peak. Adjusted for pulley size this very roughly translates into peak output around 2000rpm or so. Spinning the alternator faster than peak rated output does nothing.

EDIT: I see the 250A unit you link to claims to have excellent idle output, which is great. Now you need to decide if you really need that much....

upload_2020-9-21_7-54-22.png
 

BendRover123

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Ditto that I killed my Odyssey $250 AGM 950CCM battery in less than a year I believe was partially the fault of the high output alternator I installed from Quality Power.

The stock alternator on idle generates 14V (Denso) you need the voltage to drive battery charging. On idle 500-1000 the Quality Power High Amp alternator I installed (250AMP) drops to 13.1 Volt and that would take forever to charge any large battery with (for that you rather want say 14.5 Volts for some healthy charging). Everything above 12.9 Volt will charge a battery but it will take forever and when your in a hot climate or say on a hot day with the engine running the voltage needs are even higher for das acids batteries.

So what you have to discuss is not only Amps but also Voltage! So I changed my battery to a regular flooded one which take last about ~0.5 Volt lower charging Voltage than AGM and might be more digestible with my after market alternator. If I **** that battery say in 1-2 Years I'll install the OEM Denso type alternator.

My recommendation is if you don't need the extra AMPs don't install a high output alternator. I installed mine because I have a winch that can draw up to 500AMPs so figured a good alternator would help support the battery and stop it from completely draining.

Keep in mind that alternators have TWO ratings. One is peak output at a specified RPM. The other is the output at idle RPM. This will vary somewhat depending on the pulley size. Often, "high output" alternators sacrifice idle output, in exchange for peak output.

If you need more current while driving down the road, or while holding the engine up at ~2000 RPM, fine. But if you want the higher current at idle, the "high output" unit might actually be worse.

In the photo below of a Bosch 150A, the rating shown means 90A at idle, 150A peak. Adjusted for pulley size this very roughly translates into peak output around 2000rpm or so. Spinning the alternator faster than peak rated output does nothing.

EDIT: I see the 250A unit you link to claims to have excellent idle output, which is great. Now you need to decide if you really need that much....

View attachment 11625
 
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