gsxr
Full Access Member
I recently did this job on our LR4, and I couldn't find any existing "How To" threads with detailed instructions on what's needed to do this job, or details about the pump itself. Figured I'd write it up before I forget how I did it. The original pump had 160kmi on it, details of the failure are in this thread.
The factory service manual (FSM) fuel tank section begins on page # 4235 (of 7422) in the PDF file. Make sure to read the FSM procedures before starting the job. The info below is supplemental to the FSM.
TLDR: Drop the tank, remove the flange (update to the new style if not yet upgraded), replace pump.
See post #4 and #5 below for details on the FDM (Fuel Delivery Module, aka "fuel pump") including part numbers, pricing, and brand names.
I'll skip troubleshooting steps and assume you know the pump needs replacement. The first, and most difficult, part of the job is to drop the tank. There's already a detailed thread on fuel tank removal - click here. The rest of the notes below assume you have the tank out of the truck with easy access / visibility to everything. Take photos during removal so you'll know where the various pipes/clips/brackets belong.
With the tank out, the next step is to clean the entire top of the tank. You don't want debris of any kind dropping inside the tank. I used a shop vacuum along with various brushes and scrapers to remove all dirt / dust. Then I wiped the area around the tank flange with rags & solvent. It should be close to spotless when you are done - see photos below. Next, disconnect all the plastic pipes. Separating the pipes can be a bit of a pain if any of the quick-connect fittings have accumulated debris around the locking ring - this will prevent them from releasing. You'll want all the pipes out of the way. Cover open holes on pipes/fittings to prevent debris from falling inside.
Now you should be looking at a bare flange. There's a special tool to remove the locking ring, JLR tool # 310-123. There are aftermarket copies available for $15-$20 or so. I bought this one on Amazon for ~$15, but was NOT impressed with it, and found it to be nearly useless. It requires so much force to turn the lock ring that you have trouble keeping the whole tank from moving. And, the tool didn't fit snugly, it popped out of place under load more than once. Instead, use a hammer and punch to gently tap the lock ring loose. Move around the ring, it will loosen a small amount at a time. When it's free, remove the lock ring. You'll find more dirt/debris under the lock ring, clean this before proceeding.
Next, remove the upper flange. There are 2 hose connections underneath. The large pipe is a vent, the small one is the pressurized fuel supply from the pump. Disconnect both of these, and also disconnect the large electrical connector with wires from the pump. The original style flange has an integrated, non-replaceable filter. The updated flange has no filter.
If you have the original flange: Rotate the fuel pump assembly CCW to release it from the tabs at the bottom of the tank. Release the pipe connected to the top of the pump. Be careful not to damage the level sensor & float which is attached to the side of the pump. From memory, I believe the sensor/float must be removed from the pump first, before the pump will come out of the tank. Pry gently to release the locking tab and the sensor will slide upward out of the pump body.
If you have the updated style flange: You must remove the separate fuel filter + bracket first, as this will block access to the pump. The bracket snaps forward into the tank internals. There's a locking tang you'll need to reach forward and press while pulling the bracket backwards. You can't see the locking tang. Remove the filter+bracket together (requires disconnecting sensor wires). Now the pump can be removed as described above.
Installation is reverse of removal. The old green O-ring can probably be re-used, the new red O-ring is p/n LR117476, about $15 MSRP from the LR dealer. I opted for a new O-ring. Verify the sealing surfaces are completely clean. No lubricant should be necessary on the O-ring since it is compressed, without the flange turning against it. The lock ring rubs against the flange surface, not the O-ring surface. The lock ring will be TIGHT when installing. I tried the tool noted above and it would not work at all, the tank just rotated despite bracing it with my legs. Use the same method of hammer + drift to seat the lock ring. Reattach the pipes, install tank into truck.
I've posted a separate thread about the TSB for the updated tank flange, click here for details. If your truck has the old/original flange/filter assembly, don't buy new ones of the old style! Buy the new, updated flange/filter/bracket and upgrade everything.
NOTE: There is yet another TSB (LTB00566NAS4, October 2014), "Fuel Gauge Operation Inaccurate". This TSB specifies cutting off all the 2-pin electrical connectors at the sensors, filter, and pump. The connectors are replaced with inline crimp splices for a better electrical connection. I considered performing this upgrade, but decided not to, despite my fuel gauge often reading inaccurately (most noticeable near full or empty). The wires from the pump are SO short, there is very, very little wiring to work with. Once you crimp the wires together, the pump + sender + filter assembly are all locked together and cannot be separated without cutting the wires. And if you have to cut them apart, there may not be enough wire left to splice again.
Photos below show the tank & pipes all connected to the flange.
The factory service manual (FSM) fuel tank section begins on page # 4235 (of 7422) in the PDF file. Make sure to read the FSM procedures before starting the job. The info below is supplemental to the FSM.
TLDR: Drop the tank, remove the flange (update to the new style if not yet upgraded), replace pump.
See post #4 and #5 below for details on the FDM (Fuel Delivery Module, aka "fuel pump") including part numbers, pricing, and brand names.
I'll skip troubleshooting steps and assume you know the pump needs replacement. The first, and most difficult, part of the job is to drop the tank. There's already a detailed thread on fuel tank removal - click here. The rest of the notes below assume you have the tank out of the truck with easy access / visibility to everything. Take photos during removal so you'll know where the various pipes/clips/brackets belong.
With the tank out, the next step is to clean the entire top of the tank. You don't want debris of any kind dropping inside the tank. I used a shop vacuum along with various brushes and scrapers to remove all dirt / dust. Then I wiped the area around the tank flange with rags & solvent. It should be close to spotless when you are done - see photos below. Next, disconnect all the plastic pipes. Separating the pipes can be a bit of a pain if any of the quick-connect fittings have accumulated debris around the locking ring - this will prevent them from releasing. You'll want all the pipes out of the way. Cover open holes on pipes/fittings to prevent debris from falling inside.
Now you should be looking at a bare flange. There's a special tool to remove the locking ring, JLR tool # 310-123. There are aftermarket copies available for $15-$20 or so. I bought this one on Amazon for ~$15, but was NOT impressed with it, and found it to be nearly useless. It requires so much force to turn the lock ring that you have trouble keeping the whole tank from moving. And, the tool didn't fit snugly, it popped out of place under load more than once. Instead, use a hammer and punch to gently tap the lock ring loose. Move around the ring, it will loosen a small amount at a time. When it's free, remove the lock ring. You'll find more dirt/debris under the lock ring, clean this before proceeding.
Next, remove the upper flange. There are 2 hose connections underneath. The large pipe is a vent, the small one is the pressurized fuel supply from the pump. Disconnect both of these, and also disconnect the large electrical connector with wires from the pump. The original style flange has an integrated, non-replaceable filter. The updated flange has no filter.
If you have the original flange: Rotate the fuel pump assembly CCW to release it from the tabs at the bottom of the tank. Release the pipe connected to the top of the pump. Be careful not to damage the level sensor & float which is attached to the side of the pump. From memory, I believe the sensor/float must be removed from the pump first, before the pump will come out of the tank. Pry gently to release the locking tab and the sensor will slide upward out of the pump body.
If you have the updated style flange: You must remove the separate fuel filter + bracket first, as this will block access to the pump. The bracket snaps forward into the tank internals. There's a locking tang you'll need to reach forward and press while pulling the bracket backwards. You can't see the locking tang. Remove the filter+bracket together (requires disconnecting sensor wires). Now the pump can be removed as described above.
Installation is reverse of removal. The old green O-ring can probably be re-used, the new red O-ring is p/n LR117476, about $15 MSRP from the LR dealer. I opted for a new O-ring. Verify the sealing surfaces are completely clean. No lubricant should be necessary on the O-ring since it is compressed, without the flange turning against it. The lock ring rubs against the flange surface, not the O-ring surface. The lock ring will be TIGHT when installing. I tried the tool noted above and it would not work at all, the tank just rotated despite bracing it with my legs. Use the same method of hammer + drift to seat the lock ring. Reattach the pipes, install tank into truck.
I've posted a separate thread about the TSB for the updated tank flange, click here for details. If your truck has the old/original flange/filter assembly, don't buy new ones of the old style! Buy the new, updated flange/filter/bracket and upgrade everything.
NOTE: There is yet another TSB (LTB00566NAS4, October 2014), "Fuel Gauge Operation Inaccurate". This TSB specifies cutting off all the 2-pin electrical connectors at the sensors, filter, and pump. The connectors are replaced with inline crimp splices for a better electrical connection. I considered performing this upgrade, but decided not to, despite my fuel gauge often reading inaccurately (most noticeable near full or empty). The wires from the pump are SO short, there is very, very little wiring to work with. Once you crimp the wires together, the pump + sender + filter assembly are all locked together and cannot be separated without cutting the wires. And if you have to cut them apart, there may not be enough wire left to splice again.
Photos below show the tank & pipes all connected to the flange.
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