How to: Supercharger Removal, Rear Crossover, and Passenger Valve Cover

[Michael Gain]

I thought I would start a thread to document my shena****ns over the last week. Hopefully, it can help someone else as they wrench on their pride and joy. As a disclaimer, I did not take pics of everything, and I will ask questions of the group to better understand what is going on.

Supercharger removal:

1) remove engine appearance cover and intake
- this picture was taken while I was replacing the driver side injectors. You will notice that the battery box is take apart to gain access for the tool. The manual will tell you to remove the A.C. lines to remove the injectors, but I found that unnecessary. You will also see that the hard fuel line across the front of the intercooler is removed and the electrical connectors have been removed.

2) remove the hard lines for the pcv valve to throttle body and the oil separator to intake baffle and remove the fuel purge solenoid from the driver side of the engine. It connects to the throttle body and to the vacuum line on the driver side top of engine

3) remove the intercooler water lines. Push into the intercooler and then press the release tabs. I needed a small flat head to then leverage them off. You need to remove the union on passenger side front, and the y union quick release on the driver side. If you trace the lines, youll see what i mean. Also remove the top crossover pipe.

4) remove the intercooler from the supercharger. It's about 16 bolts. T40 hex along the outside and 10mm for the 4 bolts on top. There are two longer bolts on the front of the engine. Also, there are two 5/16 bolts holding the engine appearance cover bracket. Gentle force will allow it to pop off

5) remove the six bolts from the intake manifolds. On the back, there are two T30 bolts holding the engine harness bracket to the bracket on the back of the supercharger. Remove these and, on the passenger side, pry the electrical harness' tree fittings out of the black bracket. On the driver side, remove the vacuum fitting and the harness from the MAP sensor.
This is also a good time to remove the throttle body. Four T30 bolts and two coolant lines. The passenger side coolant line traces under the supercharger. It is actually attached to the supercharger and terminates at the rear crossover pipe.

6) remove the supercharger belt using a 3/8 socket or breaker bar.

7) there is a pry point behind the oil filter housing. I lined it up to leverage on top of the rear bolt head. The other pry point is behind the throttle body. Once loose, just keep wiggling it to free the supercharger from its press fittings. Don't forget to remove the throttle body coolant line from the bottom of the supercharger!

 

[Michael Gain]

Some questions for the group:

I noticed a lot of oil inside my supercharger. Anyone else see concern with this, or should I just jump on the oil catch can bandwagon and call it a day?

It also looks like someone removed the supercharger before. There are gouges on the number two cylinder intake face. It looks like it should still seal (there was no evidence of a leak prior to removal). Should I attempt to reface this?

I found this harness when I removed the supercharger. It looks like it is attached to a blank. Does anyone know what this goes to?

Finally, looking at the supercharger bypass valve adjustment, the pictures show the butterfly closed. But mine is obviously open. Is this the way this is supposed to be when the solenoid is discharged(open), or was the solenoid installed incorrectly? I am tracking that the butterfly is open at cruising speed and closes to build boost. I did not notice any issues with building boost before removal.

Thank you in advance for any and all help!

 

[jlglr4]

Nice write-up. With respect to your questions:

Oil in supercharger - mine looked exactly the same. I also have been thinking about a catch can, but haven’t done it yet. Despite the amount of oil, my valves were not too badly coked up. The valves closest to the firewall were the worst of the bunch, so I cleaned those with some carb cleaner and a dental pick. The others were darkened, but no gunk built up. That was at 52000 miles.

Gouges - just my 2 cents, I wouldn’t be refacing if it didn’t have a problem before. Not sure what could have caused those marks.

Harness - I also had the harness with the blanked out connection - had little plugs in the connection holes, so it was obvious that it was not in use.

Bypass valve - just checked photos of mine on the bench, and it also was in the open position when I pulled it. So, I’m assuming this is okay (I don’t have any issues). Make sure you don’t mess with the set screw (or get it back to the right position if you adjusted it). Someone on the forum had a major problem when an indy left that set screw in the wrong position.

 

[Michael Gain]

Nice write-up. With respect to your questions:

Bypass valve - just checked photos of mine on the bench, and it also was in the open position when I pulled it. So, I’m assuming this is okay (I don’t have any issues). Make sure you don’t mess with the set screw (or get it back to the right position if you adjusted it). Someone on the forum had a major problem when an indy left that set screw in the wrong position.

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly! I have the adjustment procedure (0.04in gap if I remember right) I'll check it just to make sure.

You definitely have given me a lot of peace of mind. Thank you!

 

[timc930]

on the marks. they don't look significant, and don't run the complete width. If it were me, I'd still file/sand them smooth very carefully as well as putting something in the intake to keep the filings out, along with a vacuum/shopvac while I file. done this many times, just be careful, as you don't want any of the gouge edges sticking up past the surface.

 

[Michael Gain]

Ok, on to the rear water pipe.

This is where we left off.

The rear heater manifold / crossover is behind the main engine harness and connects to each cylinder head. It is connected by 6 x t-30 bolts, 4 x Christmas tree rivets for various electrical connectors, the lower throttle body hose, the electrical connect for the temp sensor, and a quick disconnect to the heater core.

Here you see two of the Christmas tree rivets popped out, and the grey, electrical terminal removed:

On this one, you can see the third tree rivet removed:

Here is a picture of the clamp for the throttle body hose, and, along the right side of the picture, you can see a long, thick electrical cable running vertically: the fourth tree rivet is located right below the white label

Finally, behind the engine harness, we see the quick disconnect fitting:

For removal:
1) remove two Christmas tree rivets from thr passenger side, one from the driver side, and one from the cross pipe.

2) remove the electrical connector for the temp sensor

3) remove the six, T30 bolts: 3 on each side with one on the bottom of each runner--i had to use a 1/4 in ratchet with wobbly extensions.

4) with the bolts removed, wiggle the pipe until it is free. Collect the escaping coolant with a catch can underneath and towels on the top--the rubber o-rings from the old pipe were fused to the cylinder heads. Gentle pressure allowed them to peel right off.

5) now that the pipe is loose, depress the green buttons on the quick disconnect and wiggle the crossover pipe free from that fitting (straight towards the driver side.

6) now that the pipe is free, remove the throttle body coolant hose using channel locks on the clip.

Install is the reverse. Do not forget to tuck the throttle body hose into the plastic channels on the top of the new pipe.

Fun fact: I have a loose breather hose behind the engine harness. I did not trace it, but zip tied it for added support.

 

[Michael Gain]

Sorry to say that is did not replace the passenger valve cover. The high pressure fuel line needs to be removed (see picture), but runs behind a bracket with a pulley on it (I think power steering pump). I did not want to mess with it, and my wife wanted her car back.

In the last three months, this round of maintenance included: new plugs, ignition coils, injectors, supercharger coupler and snout with performance pulley; intake, intercooler, and throttle body gaskets; supercharger oil change (3.4oz); and rear crossover pipe.

I also have an entire front suspension refresh in boxes waiting for install (upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar end links and poly sway bar bushings)

Fuel line blocking valve cover removal:

I also noticed Grease around the supercharger bearing when I removed the snout. Not sure if that is a good or bad thing:

 

[Wmpaand]

Hello Michael, getting up my courage to remove the supercharger on my -14 LR4 in order to replace the front crossover coolant tube as I've found a leak using a boroscope. A question; is it possible to remove the supercharger without first removing the intercooler on top? I have seen pictures with the entire supercharger lifted up giving access to the crossover tube and I want to remove as little as possible.
Br Patrick

 

[Michael Gain]

Hello Michael, getting up my courage to remove the supercharger on my -14 LR4 in order to replace the front crossover coolant tube as I've found a leak using a boroscope. A question; is it possible to remove the supercharger without first removing the intercooler on top? I have seen pictures with the entire supercharger lifted up giving access to the crossover tube and I want to remove as little as possible.
Br Patrick

Unfortunately, the bolts holding the intake manifolds to the cylinder heads are located underneath the intercooler.

Another option is to just remove the snout. However, you would also have to remove the water pump. The y pipe bolts are annoying to get to this way (especially the left).

Having done it both ways. I feel like complete removal is better to ensure seating of the y pipe. It also gives you the opportunity to inspect and replace the rear crossover pipe if necessary

 

[timc930]

Hello Michael, getting up my courage to remove the supercharger on my -14 LR4 in order to replace the front crossover coolant tube as I've found a leak using a boroscope. A question; is it possible to remove the supercharger without first removing the intercooler on top? I have seen pictures with the entire supercharger lifted up giving access to the crossover tube and I want to remove as little as possible.
Br Patrick

I did not realize you had to remove/lift the SC in order to replace this part. Can you post a picture of the coolant pipe you are talking about? I am getting ready to replace all the coolant (plastic) pipes on Wifes '15, and just want to make sure I know what has to come apart...

Tim