Howto: DIY LR4 Alternator replacement

Discussion in 'LR4' started by mbw, Dec 14, 2016.

  1. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    About a week ago, I jump started someones vehicle. I know I did it correctly, but I still must have managed to burn something out in my alternator.

    I had/have about 50,600 miles on my 2013 LR4, so no luck with warranty. Land Rover Madison Wisconsin had a pretty piss poor customer service when I called. Dude even had a pretty strong british accent. He must feel pretty special working at a land rover dealership in the midwest.

    Anyway, talked to parts department just to get a part number (LR065246) and see what they wanted for the part... $909.27 ... I'll just let that sink in.

    So a friend of mine here in Dubuque owns a nice little euro/import car dealership, was able to find me a new Denso DAN1103 aka LR023421 (the box says RRS 5.0L, but same thing) It's an older part number, but from what I can tell the exact same manufacturer part. 150amp, etc. Got a new one, no core charge for $380 (with taxes and credit card fee).

    First the symptoms. On startup I would notice the voltage would kick up to 14v or so for a few seconds, but after that I could only get 13v+ by coasting downhill at a good pace. The rest of the time the voltage was ~12.3 or whatever the batteries could muster together. It shouldn't really be below 13v ever when running. The batteries where discharging at a good rate though. I would have had problems a lot sooner had I not had the dual AGM batteries and the traxide kit. I went a good week of town driving before I noticed the batteries where really getting lower than they should. The weather has been crazy cold and with all the heated seats, windshield, washer jets, steering wheel, and massive audio amps of christmas music through the 17 speakers.. i figured a little low might be normal.

    So, to do this yourself is not that bad of a job. If you can change brakes you can do this. A few tight spots but otherwise not horrible.

    Tools: You need 13mm socket, small extention, 10mm socket. I used a small torque wrench for the tensioner, you might be tempted to use a longer one or a long breaker bar, but the transmission lines are in the way near the bottom, so I used something a little shorter. I had a 1/2" wrench for my aux battery terminals. The OEM neg battery can be undone with a 10mm socket.

    The hammer is for putting the plastic clips back in. need nose pliers for getting them out. Voltmeter can be used to test if the alternator puts out 14v+ when its charging.. mine wasn't even putting out 13+.
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    1. Remove negative battery cable(s) from batteries. (you are disconnecting a positive cable off the alternator and you don't want to short that out to a negative/ground on the chassis.)
    2. Raise the vehicle a bit. I used the front cross member and put jack stands on both sides.
    3. Take the center front engine shield off, so you can see the front of the engine (From under) The big bolts are 13mm @ 45 ft/lb. The little ones are 10mm, not sure of torque, but not 45, just hand tight.
    4. Take the passenger side plastic panel off so you can get access to the alternator. It has 5 of those pain in the ass plastic rivets. You have to pull the center out (or all the way out) and then the base will come out. I could only get 3 out intact, so to ebay for more! http://www.ebay.com/itm/261961115575
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    5. Now you need to take the tension off the serpentine belt to get it off the alternator pulley. Once you do, it will most likely come out of place on the other pulleys also, but just be aware of that and make sure they all get put back into place when you put it back on. It isn't very difficult to check that.

    6. Next you can undo the red electrical cable (~9ft/lb) and the 3 other bolts. All are 13 mm. The alternator bolts are 35 ft/lb.

    7. When you get that loose you have to take the electrical connector (the pulse width modulation "PWM" signal cable). It just has a largish flat side which you push in and it should come out. Be careful with the weight of the alternator as you do this.. that signal line is one little gauge cable. you don't want to bust it.

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    Last edited: Dec 14, 2016
  2. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    All better!

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    A note about fuses! wow... so F20 is labeled as "ALT" ... alternator.. even in the factory service manual... but F20 (5amp) is MISSING!. NO FUSE. verified with @Finlayforprez also.. his 2013 has it missing. (between the two green 30's on the right)
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    Last edited: Dec 14, 2016
    ryanjl likes this.
  3. catman

    catman Full Access Member

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    Nice write-up! And thanks for the easy link to the plastic clips! I broke 2 the other week taking off the wheel trim on my LR3 and have been too lazy to look up the part and find them somewhere. One click and done just now - I appreciate it!
     
  4. Finlayforprez

    Finlayforprez Full Access Member

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    This was awesome! Thanks so much for sharing... I was happy to have helped (even if it was just sending you a photo of my fuses).
     
  5. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    So, something is still weird. My 5 minute test drive, the gauge was in the green the whole time (14v+ charging), but then i plugged in my charger and later tonight drove a couple hours to a nearby city and back, had dinner there, never saw anything north of 12.4v .... WTF. Odd thing is though that the batteries never really drained, they just stayed at that voltage.. but not even 13v!... SO what did I break here? ECU?!?! Im a bit frustrated.
     
  6. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    I suspect the battery at this point. I think having dual batteries is complicating this.

    Full charged aux and main battery, unhooked, each on its own. (Using my CTEK Multi 7002 8 step charger)

    aux holds 13.2+ volts for many hours (haven't put a load on it at all. yet)

    main batt, fully charged, then went for test drive with only it hooked up. Alternator was kicking out minimum 13v, and was putting out 14+ any time i was on throttle (it wasn't doing that yesterday, but i think i reset something by having the car totally unplugged all night)

    as soon as I got done with a test drive, the main battery was at 12.5-12.6v

    after being fully charged.. that seems low right? I ordered another Exide Edge FP-AGML5/49 Flat Plate AGM to replace this one. I am hoping its just a battery issue, but I can't be sure yet. Worst case I exchange my current main exide with this one, warranty it, and use the replacement in my boat or something.

    I also wanted to include this graphic as it shows all the things involved in this mess.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    [​IMG]

    thats last night, engine running, idle.. but it was the same voltage on the throttle.

    This morning, seems to be working normal.. would never see anything much under 13.0v, and anytime you touch the throttle you get 14.2v or higher.

    edit: and again just now... working fine.. connected the aux battery up again via the traxide SC-80 and still seems fine. Both batteries where above 13v after resting with the engine off for awhile.. i think they are healthy. (they better be, the practically live on that CTEK charger)
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2016
  8. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    It still isn't charging most of the time. Car turns on, it goes to 14v+, then to 13.7 or so, then down to 12.2 or 12v... super low.

    12.0v and the car thinks it has 83% charge state... WTF

    Also, notice the amps. If you blip the throttle and let off, the current draw is huge, like 18amps, but then I assume the alternator kicks in and gets the amps back up to just under an 1amp draw. You can see it kicked out ~6amps once, but not for long, and the voltage never goes up much. It acts like its trying to drain the battery and not charge because it thinks it has 84% charge.

    Yesterday it was 14.3v all day long, after I fully charged the battery on its own. is my BMS totally confused? Or failing?

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    EDIT: Just to add.. if you reset the car by taking the batt terminals off... I can make it act normal for a few short drives... This is what I was experiencing every time I reset the computers. This looks 'normal' to me.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2016
  9. Quijote

    Quijote Full Access Member

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    Sorry about your ongoing charging issue. Unfortunately I cannot provide any helpful hints as to what it could be.

    Thanks for the alternator write up, though. That's great stuff!
     
  10. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

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    I was just going to ask if you had seen the thread that someone started a while back on ExPo, but saw that you had just posted in it.
     

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