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IID Tool - RPM fluctuates, hard downshift?

Discussion in 'LR4' started by brushpicks11, Mar 19, 2020.

  1. brushpicks11

    brushpicks11 Member

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    I'm considering getting the IID tool for my 2011 LR4. It has 176k miles and has been serviced regularly for its 9 year existence.

    I have one major issue with the truck and is the only one I can't figure out (besides heated steering wheel going out indefinitely). The RPMs fluctuate even when keeping a constant speed (cruising). The truck also has a hard downshift when going to zero as if it holds around 25-30mph before shifting quickly to 10 mpg. It's so hard it's as if I was rear ended.

    Can the IID tool fix this? I read it can readjust the transmission so that it re-adapts to my driving habits, but would it potentially help the transmission stop this shifting and fluctuating rpm issue?

    I need to get my transmission fluid replaced (perhaps that's the issue). Also, I floored it to blow by some guy the other day and the truck held at 3000 rpms for at least 1.5 seconds even though I let off the gas. Another weird transmission thing.

    P.S. if anyone has fixed their heated steering wheel just pooping out on them via the IID tool let me know.

    Thanks!
     
  2. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

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    torque converter on the way out. Just had this last year.
     
  3. brushpicks11

    brushpicks11 Member

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    Do you know what costs might be?
     
  4. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

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    depends if there’s any damage to your transmission. I tried a fluid and filter change first and added some dr tranny which helped for a while. You might get away with another 6 mos to a year out of the TC. I put a new to me transmission (had 40k miles on it and came with a torque converter). The cost was $600 for the transmission and about 1200-1400 labor to have it put in.

    You could likely have them pull the transmission, service, and install a new torque converter for about the same cost as above.

    My thought was, if I’m paying the labor, I’d rather know the transmission I’m putting in is in good shape too. Getting a used transmission that had been tested and had a warranty seemed to be the best option. A rebuild of my old transmission was going to cost in excess of $3k. Used transmission off carpart.com was significantly less and has worked perfectly
     
  5. brushpicks11

    brushpicks11 Member

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    In case anyone ever comes across this. Take it to a transmission shop. My local guy whom I trust did a full inspection of the issue, reset some codes (abs code was one of the main culprits apparently) and bam! Issue fixed. No more hard down kicks, no more fluctuating, no more crazy pull acceleration from a stop. It's cleared for now. I can bring it back if they come back for further diagnosis. For now, I'll just hope for the best. He said trans is in great shape. *Knock on wood.
     
    cperez and scott schmerge like this.
  6. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

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    that’s fantastic news!!! I did all I could think of and had a transmission shop who works on zf trans take a look and still ended up with replacement. I didn’t have any abs faults though...which would make a definite difference. I’m guessing the abs faults caused the transmission lockup to disengage
     
  7. brushpicks11

    brushpicks11 Member

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    Thanks! That's probably true. Love the truck even with its weird electrical quirks.
     
  8. Tapps33

    Tapps33 Full Access Member

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    It agree it sounds like you’re having some trans issues. That said, the first thing I’d do before taking it in, is change the trans fluid, trans fluid filter (I recommend the upgraded pan with removable filter), and finally, and this is a BIG one, replace your mechatronic seals.

    A lot of your issues sound like you’re not getting proper fluid pressure into the different trans circuits internally. There are both apply and release circuits, and fluid shortages or low pressure in any of them can cause the issues you’re describing. FYI, I have a 2010 LR4 with 165K on it, and I just completed this maintenance. My truck went from behaving similar to yours to shifting like a brand new LR4. The improvement was truly astounding!

    The mechatronic seals are known issues with the ZF transmissions. (There are 6; 4 tube seals, one “double box” seal, and the cable connector seal) Just make sure you purchase new ZF brand seals and not some aftermarket stuff. While it may not make a difference, I wouldn’t take ANY chances.

    Truthfully, it only took me about 4 or 5 hours to complete the fluid and seal swap. There are a few “tricks” to getting it done, but just google it real quick and Atlantic British has a nice video on it. Between the pan, fluid and seals, I want to say it was around $300-$400 to get all the parts (don’t quote me on that # as it’s been a couple of months)....the fluid costing me the most. While not cheap, as far as LR’s go, it’s not too bad!

    Before I pay someone else to mess with my transmission....try this and you may just save yourself a lot of money and heartache! Plus, the new pan and seals are pretty much a requirement at this age of your truck anyway....if this doesn’t fix the problem, all you’re really losing is the fluid.

    Just my two cents....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  9. brushpicks11

    brushpicks11 Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. I plan on doing a full trans flush in June. Hopefully that keeps the truck going for thousands more miles. Don't ever wanna get rid of the truck if I had to I'd get another LR4
     
  10. Jimmy Brooks

    Jimmy Brooks Full Access Member

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    Agreed sounds very much like valve seals, especially when going from 35-0. The only weird thing that that I don’t believe valve seals affecting the disengagement and engagement of the E clutch. Like the person said above change the fluid do the filter and pan, i’d recommend The valve body service as well as the replacement of the bridge seals and valve seals/sleeve seals.
     

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