Inner/Outer Tie rod ends replacement

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I had a question regarding Tie Rod ends both inner/outer -

I have a 2007 LR3 with 68k and have replaced both the inner/outer tie rod ends not too long ago and now after my 68k service inspection, the mechanic is saying I need to replace. I understand that there is additional wear when running larger tires (275/65R18s) but only after say 4k miles, seems odd.
Does anyone sell heavier duty beefed up Tie Rods and Ends? just looking for some input or if this is normal. I mostly due around town driving with some light to moderate wheeling. I bought it in September 19' and have put about 10k miles on it to date. I replaced the upper/lower control arms when purchased and back in January the tie rod ends.

Cross posted-
 

Houm_WA

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I kind of wonder if there wasn't some poor quality tie rods in the supply chain for a while. I went through a similar situation a few years ago. I managed to get 18k on a set of tie rods! I also run that size tire but not full-time. Half the year I run stock sized.
 

bbyer

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Replacing front end parts seems to be part of the deal.

I have gotten used to replacing tie rod ends and front lower control arms (never an upper, or any rear).

A few years back, I stopped having the LR dealer do the work using official LR parts and switched to a local independent. For my 3, he orders from some Germany based parts manufacturer and the bits are apparently actually made in Germany - the cost is the same of more than LR OEM.

The LR OEM generally lasted maybe 18 to 24 months, long enough that any LR inferred parts warranty was over.

The parts my independent uses last closer to three years before replacement is required.

He can also get far east sourced suspension parts a lot cheaper than the EU manufactured parts, but for the most part, those parts only last a few months.

About all I am certain of is that our 3's are for certain, not Ford or Chev pickups when it comes to front ends. I think maybe our 3's are just plain heavy, plus the front axles setup is farther forward relative to pickups and that has something to do with loading; same with the rear axle - further rearward so there must be some loading differences relative to the axles being more centred.

I run stock tyre sizes all around, all the time.
 
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DiscoNels

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My 2006 LR3 V8 eats tie rod ends like M&M's. I do off-road so there's that, but still, I can't even go anywhere without needing replacements. Last year I started replacing them myself and bought a set of "heavy duty" (don't get excited) tie rod ends from Lucky8 LLC. So far they're fairing better than the old stock; I'm still on that first Lucky8 set.
 

Ruper

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Just did Upper and lower Ball Joints and both inner and outer tie rod ends. Parts from Rockauto, so cheap ones. Guess I'll see how it goes. The upper BJ's were a *****, especially since I had one day to do it and couldn't find a ball joint remover tool set at any parts store to borrow.
Made my own out of a 2" galv. coupler, 2" x 1-1/2" Reducer coupling, 1" piece of bar stock, 7/8" Deep Well socket and with a little help from a C-clamp.
When trying to push the upper BJ out, I didn't notice that although the ball joint top fit nicely into the coupler mouth, it was hitting the threads as it tried to move up into the coupler (i.e. get the right tools).

The way you guys sound I might buy a tool set for the next time. I did get them done and lessons learned from Driver's side helped me on the passenger side. Like remove the C-clip under upper BJ so it will actually move, yeah I did that.
I took on this due to shaky steering wheel when braking, and it did partially help the issue all though it did not go away. Found that the cheap axle nut I got last time, (and unfortunately bought the same part from RA) had gotten loose on the passenger axle although it is a "staked" nut.
I think the issue was that the axle nut end was so thin that when I staked the nut it actually cut the nut end rather than bending it.
Ordering some legit axle nuts for next time, and a bigger better torque wrench as mine only got up to 200 Nm. (230Nm req'd on axle nuts)
I assume the nut let loose the hub and probably warped the also cheap hubs bought off RA. I don't mean to bag on Rock Auto as I usually have great success with their parts, although this was my first foray into suspension parts with them and on a 15 yo land rover.
Now how to tell the wife I need to buy the same parts again? So plan is to tell her something else is aligning my land rover. This would not be a far fetched statement, and she doesn't know much about cars so I think it will pass the smell test.

If you plan the upper BJ's make sure you have a torch (heat) ready to apply, and place the new BJ's in the freezer for a couple days to "shrink" the diameter of the new ones, it didn't help much but in my mind it was the key to my success.
OSMWR: (Oh Sheet moment when doing the repair) When upper ball joint was half way pushed up and would not move for two hours, also due to not having the right tool set
Difficulty BJ's without proper tools (upper: 9.9 out of 10, lowers 7.5 out of 10), tie rods: 2 out of 10.

Worst part on the Tie rods was getting the dust covers off the old TR for the new TR.

Tip #2, check that YOU do not bend your brake disc dust cover on the hub, by rotating the hub after you put it back together. Ran 500 miles with mine scrapping the hub, now I have custom see thru the bottom brake dust cover on the Drivers.
Now to go see the alignment guys, were I get to educate them on Land Rover Air Suspensions.

Next Up new control arm bushings...do I dare?
 

bbyer

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A bit late now for me to mention it, but when I need ball joints, I replace the whole control arm. If you have to pay for labour, the cost works out about the same and one gets all new everything.

Sometimes, I even purchase new bolts as well.

I am just lazy I guess.
 

Ruper

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If I could have afforded the time to do so I would have went full arm also, cause now I will have to repeat alot if I do the bushings. I just knew I wouldn't have been able to pull all of the control arms off in a day, or I would really get something screwed up. And I didn't have time to get her aligned until later, so I went with that option.
 

m_lars

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I'm just ordering parts for tie rod ends and rear upper control arms.

FCPEuro has competitive pricing on OE or OEM parts AND lifetime warranty on all their parts (including engine oil and filters). If a part fails you buy a replacement, send in the failed parts and they refund you for the replacement order. I guess your "deductible" is the cost of return shipping, but still not a bad deal. Definitely worth considering for those often replaced parts.
 

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