Looking to buy this LR4, but rattle at cold start. Goes away when warm...

Aboshi

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I’m not home at the moment but I’ll will post many links to all the issues later. Here’s just one of the links for now:
 

equalizer

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Anyone has a recording of what a "good" SCV6 engine sounds like?
I'd like to make some audio spectrum analyzer comparison of the frequencies that should and should not be there (with Audiocity or any other equivalent)
 

Davidinseattle

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Hello everyone,

I've been looking to purchase a LR4 for years. I live in Canada, and finally found a 2016 LUX with HD package. Approx 65k miles. It's been very well maintained and taken care of, however I had a PBI done today. The shop recommends a passenger side valve cover seal replacement (very mild leak), a new water pump assembly, a new vacuum pump (mild leak), and an updated factory maintenance service (oil change, transfer gearbox fluid change, rear diff fluid change, brake fluid change). The current owner is willing to take care of all of this before the sale. However, my biggest concern is the rattle that is apparent at cold start up. I have attached video. Indy JLR shop thinks either supercharger isolator, water pump (which is going to be changed anyway), or timing chains, but they will need to investigate to determine cause ($149 CND/hr). Any thoughts based on the video? I really would like to purchase this vehicle as a 2016 LUX with HD is an extreme rarity up here, and I really need a new vehicle (I know, the worst time to buy used). Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


Rattle noise link:

View attachment 21368View attachment 21369
OT: holy crap. Does the road commission come out and put salt directly on your undercarriage in Canada. Our 15' has 50+k miles on it and with a little spit shine would show as close to new. we live in WA state.
 

LR4 2011

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This sounds reasonable price for all of the work. I was quoted $9k just for the chain guide job in Richmond Va. Another shop thru a forum member gave me a shop and they wants $7k. I have purchased all of the parts, special tools and will be doing the job myself, minus replacing the VVT. Hopefully all of the videos and down loaded documents will help me. I am a trained mechanic so should not have any issues. I have already done some work on my vehicle, rear brake plates, bearings etc.
 

LR4 2011

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Oh yeah, you might want to have them check the rear steel brake lines for rusting out at the frame mounting point. I recently replaced the 2 front calipers due to a sticking issue which caused the car to pull heavily to the left above speeds of 65 mph only during raining condition, weird. But after replacing the calipers(issue above fixed), I also replaced all of the rubber brake lines as per recommendation and that is when I sprung a leak on the left rear steel line. It collects road salt at this plastic mounting clip on the frame and JLR posted a repair procedure, a short brake line that you splice into on the main line running along the frame. It took a while to get the line and the tools to work on the brake line in frame, but it worked. I am thankful because the shop near me wanted $$$ to lift the body just to replace the complete lines from the rear axle up to the master cylinder area.
 

t3s1a

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The price is just way too high IMO. 44k cad + tax will get you close to a 50k cad for a 6yo vehicle and it is not even a range rover.
I bought my 2012 hse lux (not hd) in summer 2020 for half of that. It really is hard to find a decent LR4 in Toronto area, but 44k… Honestly, I’d put it as a downpayment for a new Defender.

But maybe I’m just cheap
 

t3s1a

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OT: holy crap. Does the road commission come out and put salt directly on your undercarriage in Canada. Our 15' has 50+k miles on it and with a little spit shine would show as close to new. we live in WA state.
Basically, roads are made out of salt here in the winter, lol
 

jlglr4

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Anyone has a recording of what a "good" SCV6 engine sounds like?
I'd like to make some audio spectrum analyzer comparison of the frequencies that should and should not be there (with Audiocity or any other equivalent)
@equalizer: see post 11. Its my engine, and though I can’t say for certain how “good” it is, I haven’t had any problems with it so far. About 65K miles, oil reports look good, SC coupler and water pump has been changed out. You’ll probably need a few samples of sounds from different scv6 engines to do this kind of analysis, but I’d be interested in your findings.
 

Alchern

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OT: holy crap. Does the road commission come out and put salt directly on your undercarriage in Canada. Our 15' has 50+k miles on it and with a little spit shine would show as close to new. we live in WA state
Oh yes the salt use here is out of control. More salt than I put on my steak!
If I buy this one, I’ll definitely be taking for rust protection treatment to see what can be prevented. Hopefully not too late.
 
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