LR3 Suspension Compressor

Chris Rucci

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Just bought (my first) LR3.
It needs some love and will be a fun project.
The suspension is on the bump stops and I dont think the compressor is working.
I'm going to replace the compressor and the relay, but I have a question:
Everything I see references a compressor replacement as a $1,000USD exercise.
But, I'm see both the Hitachi and the AMK version listed in several places for less than $300.
Am I missing something?

Thanks
 

douglastic

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DIY vs dealer/indie installs?
Have you factored in a diagnostic tool (IIDtool)?

You will definitely need one if yours needs love - the sooner you get it, the quicker it pays itself off.
 

douglastic

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Dealers also probably charge more for the compressor itself

R&R is pretty straightforward - it won't take you 5-6hrs - unless something breaks
Usually the little captive nuts, but hopefully your compressor came with them (RYH500170)

Just make sure you have no leaks at the hose connections . . . or elsewhere in the system (soap/water check)

I would also refresh your f/r valve blocks a few weeks after your swap
There will likely be powdered desiccant in them, a common cause of sagging

Good luck!
 

Chris Rucci

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Awesome!
Thanks for the guidance.
I'm hopeful it goes smoothly.

I have had several older BMWs in my driveway (the most expensive German car is a cheap German car) over the years, so I'm no stranger to getting my hands dirty...but I am in no way a mechanic.
 

denochs

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Hello all, new here on the forum. Just bought a 2007 Range Rover HSE w/160k miles from a dealer that took it on trade. I'm having an issue with the Yellow/Red light suspension fault. Vehicle airs up & I can lower/raise it while in the driveway with no codes. Once it gets up to speed the yellow light illuminates. It seems as I let off the accelerator or come to a stop after reaching 50 mph the red light comes on with warning "do not exceed 30 mph". Took it out on I 95 and ran it up to 90/100 mph with the light switching back & forth between yellow & red. I had the display in 4x4 to observe the ride height & looks normal. I have a 1500 mile trip next week. Is it too dangerous to drive it that far with this code on?

I like to keep all my vehicles maintained myself. Don't know which dealers are trustworthy. From what I've read on here the GAP scanner is a must to own one of these things, especially older ones. But which scanner do I need? I see several on their web site.

Thanks in advance for advice & help,
Dave
 

Houm_WA

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Get the Bluetooth version for the LR3. Then do a calibration of your EAS. That should get you going down the right path.
 

denochs

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Update for comments & advice. Performed a hard reset removing battery cables, etc. Noticed corrosion on the positive post & cable. Cleaned & charged the battery (noted battery replaced 8/17). Restarted & took for a 28 mile test drive the same as in my post above. The amber warning for suspension fault came back on right away. So, I left the a/c & other accessories off for the 1st have of the drive. No red warning light. On the return portion I added the a/c & accessories. Still no red warning light. Amber light stayed on the entire 28 mile drive. Got back in the driveway & cycled the key off then back on, restarted, & noticed the amber suspension light did not come back on. Cycled the suspension up & down, even in the extended mode, & no amber or red warning light. Took it for a 3rd test drive of 28 miles, mostly interstate and NO malfunctions or codes.

Should I take that as an indication the battery is getting old and not strong enough to stand up to this Florida heat & humidity? Do you folks all think I can take this (new to me) vehicle on a long trip?

Thanks,
Dave
 

Houm_WA

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You can test the battery easily enough with a voltmeter. I'd still strongly recommend a GAP tool.
 

denochs

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Longer test drive today & amber/red suspension code came back. Had the display in 4x4 mode. Didn't see any uneven tires.

Tested the battery after charging. 12.6v. Is that where it should be to eliminate it?

Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet for the GAP code reader.
 

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