LR3 with 134,000...long trip?

Discussion in 'LR3' started by rs7trout, Apr 8, 2018.

  1. rs7trout

    rs7trout Member

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    So--I have an LR3 approx. 134,000 mi.--thinking of doing a long trip 5-6,000 miles in the US....and like a few others on the forum looking for opinions!!

    I've taken good care of the Rover--at 120-130,000 new radiator, alternator, starter, belts, air suspension compressor, ... tires -- brakes all fairly new!

    I realize many other things can happen but ... do you think it's a bit unwise to take a long distance trip with that many miles or do you think ..go for it!!

    And any other suggestions for part replacement??

    Thanks
    Ron
     
  2. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    WUT? !

    134k miles is no big deal on the modern lr3. Hell, at 134k my D1 was still giving me 30,000/yr and never needed a flat bed ride.

    This question is a little funny if you think about it. Wear n tear is more about cycles which are less / mile when on big road trips. It's a bit like if you commute 40 miles to work, you drive 2x / day. On a road trip, especially when making time and just going night to night with only gas stops, it's kind of nothing to just roll all day vs stop n go traffic, etc.

    Just don't be a douche riding 500 mile highway days in higher suspension height making the compressor overwork all the time.
     
  3. maxx4wd

    maxx4wd Well-Known Member

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    should be fine...I have the same mileage and take ours towing with the camper...keep a couple extra things with you just in case but nothing out of the ordinary for a trip like that. wouldn't even think twice about it unless you're experiencing any weird issues.
     
  4. Rubber Cow

    Rubber Cow Full Access Member

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    Buy a decent code reader, an ARB flat repair kit and a few spare partst:
    -Serpentine belt
    -Brake light switch
    -the stupid T-shape coolant coupler/vent part that cracks and breaks
    -spare headlight bulbs

    I've done many 4K+ mile trips in my 07 that now has 165k miles on it.
    The code reader is great to have....and so is windshield coverage on your insurance.
     
  5. rs7trout

    rs7trout Member

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    Thanks for your comments!! Guess my reluctance is the result of previously owning a 99 range rover--don't even want to begin to talk about its problems!! but the LR3 has been a totally different animal!!!
     
  6. Rubber Cow

    Rubber Cow Full Access Member

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    Yeah, a lot changed at LR between 1999 and when the LR3 was designed and built.
    Take spares, be prepared and have fun!
     
  7. bbyer

    bbyer Full Access Member

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    Regarding the cooling system tee and a few other plastic parts in the cooling system, now is the time to change them out, while you are at home - new thermostat housing etc.

    Once done, you can forget about the cooling system and enjoy the trip. My 3 is more reliable now with 200,000 miles on it than when new. I like to think all the weak parts have been replaced.

    If you have never done an oil and filter change to the tranny, do so now and it will just run better. Also removing the pan will show if there is much metal on the magnets - there will be some, but more of a paste which is normal but there should be no lumps.

    Below is a link to a number of files related to our ZF 6HP26. You get an independent to do the oil change; the dealers do not know how. It is a lot easier now to find someone who knows how as Ford installs a license built version in their pickups etc.

    https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5059
     
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  8. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    Also note that there are now redesigned kits allowing much easier trans filter changing without the hassles created by the factory filter design. Atlantic British and other suppliers have the kits in various degrees with or without the transmission electrical sleeve, fluid, etc.

    In my experience the only hard to access bolts are the two rear heat shield that are obstructed by the center frame cross member. I plan to replace these 4 bolts with standard hex head bolt because that's easier to deal with than any inset such as torx or female hex/allen key style. I have very low profile of all versions and a basic bolt head is far simpler. It's probably a basic M5 or 6.

    For the filter pan, I actually prefer the torx head. If anyone is needing to undo the propeller shafts, you'll need an external torx socket set that includes E11. E11 is actually rare but Grey pneumatic has it in their sets 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drives. I've also tracked down a UK company "Laser tools" who have box end spanners in including the E11.

    VIM has great super stubby sockets for hex and torx but even those were too big for the stupidly designed heat shield bolts under the trans pan.
     
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  9. rs7trout

    rs7trout Member

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    Thanks Again for comments! Actually replaced the radiator and hoses, thermostat and coolant reservoir about 10,000 miles ago--and had the tranny filter replaced as well!! Like I mentioned before the experience with the 99 RR is always in the back of my mind--maybe a good thing as I'm more attentive to smaller issues in the LR3!!
     
  10. tex_jag

    tex_jag New Member

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    You should be fine with the mileage you have, at least based my experience. My LR3 is passing 190K miles and we take it on long trips (1K+ miles) frequently. I would recommend you check your battery, and maybe out it on a charger before you start, mine had an issue where it completely died on me one day on the road, without warning, because the Alternator was not charging and it decide to short to ground !.

    Also take a good after market socket, breaker bar, and maybe an extra lug nut with you, for any unforeseen tire changes, I had one messed up lug nut, I guess the tire shop messed it up during the rotations.
     
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