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LR4 brakes soft/hard

Discussion in 'LR4' started by sceh, Apr 28, 2021.

  1. sceh

    sceh Well-Known Member

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    I have posted about this before:

    The brakes are usually pretty sharp (only 35K miles) but sometimes when maneuvering, the pedal will be soft and pumping does not help. Take the foot off and try a couple of times and it is OK. On the road so far there has been no sign of anything amiss but at very slow speeds I can stop sharp and then the next press is soft - halfway down and little braking.

    Today I drove into my garage and the brakes were suddenly quite hard but did not stop the car well at all. A few weeks ago I had very hard brakes and the car would not start until I had both feet on the pedal.

    Today after the garage debacle, I felt the discs - the rear were stone cold and the front quite warm.

    ANY ideas? If the rears were not working surely the car would indicate this?
    When I tried to stop in my garage, the pedal was very soft and then pumped up hard and then is OK.

    I am stumped
     
  2. Quijote

    Quijote Full Access Member

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    You need to start by giving the brakes a good brake fluid flush. Very important. In the process, inspect or have the lines inspected.

    Start there.
     
    Izzyandsue and gsxr like this.
  3. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

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    Disc temp front to rear is normal. 80%+ is handled by the fronts. x2 on the fluid and make sure they use the correct low viscosity brake fluid (ceck manual).
     
  4. sceh

    sceh Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered 5 liters of DOT4 so will get to work in a couple of days and report back. No faults indicated by the IID tool though
     
  5. jlglr4

    jlglr4 Full Access Member

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    Maybe check your brake vacuum pump and lines too. And, at the risk of stating the obvious, check the calipers to make sure they’re not binding up, especially in the rear since you noted the cold pads.

    I’m not aware of any sensors on the car that will detect a problem with the mechanical components of the brakes themselves other than low fluid or pad wear. If a caliper seizes, nothing is going to tell you that to my knowledge.
     
  6. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

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    5L?
     
  7. sceh

    sceh Well-Known Member

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    I have another car that needs a flush..
     
  8. sceh

    sceh Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for advice so far.
    Every time I have bled brakes in the past I have done the two man method where I undo the bleed nozzle, they depress and then I tighten again. I have never done the single man lethod where you dip the outflow pipe into a bottle of fluid and simply pump and keep the master cylinder full.
    How come fluid is not sucked back out of the bottle when the brake pedal is released? No valve needed? Seems too easy to be true!
     
  9. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

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    I have gravity bled (hours and hours), two man, positive pressure (built simple pressure device out of a garden sprayer for master cylinder) and used the mity vac on the bleed nipples (suction) but never one man pumping o_O while bleeders kept open. Does that work?

    In my experience the mity vac was the best. You do get air bubbles in the line from bleeder to the mity vac but that is just air coming around the threads of the bleeder screw itself. There is no air "introduced" into the brake system unless you let the master cylinder run dry. Pro tip: First use mity vac to drain most of the master cylinder. refill with fresh and them go attack each wheel. This reduces the amount of dirty brake fluid you are pulling through the system.





    .
     
  10. sceh

    sceh Well-Known Member

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    try this:



    I will give it a go but it seems too simple to be true
     

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