Tapps33
Full Access Member
Hello Rover Universe!
I’m not sure if everyone’s been following the thread on the search for a new crossover tube, but as I’m on the cusp of some system repairs/upgrades/modifications, I need your help as I’m struggling with one piece of the puzzle.
Long story even longer, I’ve been planning on modifying the cooling system for quite some time as I’m already on my 3rd water pump and 2nd crossover tube. My plan is to replace the water pump with a Davies Craig in line electric pump, remove the thermostat (which requires some slight modification to the cooling tube junctions) and replace the mechanical fan with one (or more) electric fans. Once that is done, I’m going to try and Re-route the crossover tube...somehow...possibly straight out the front of the block...if I can make it work...won’t know till I get in there and the mechanical water pump is out of the way.
Quick disclaimer!!! Before we get off track and start dieting whether it’ll work, or have the capacity, I made the switch on my 5.9L diesel truck and have pulled heavy with it with no problems! So, I know the “e” conversion will work to support the 5.0 gas engine just fine!
With that in mind, I’m still narrowing down which controller I want to use, as the Davies Clark controller is 100% variable for the water pump side of things, but not the fans, they’ve simply got a high and low output speed. Derale have a 100% variable fan controller, but isn’t designed for water pumps...eh, I’m still trying to decide there. (I ran separate controllers on my truck, but want them combined on the LR4)
So here’s the million dollar question, has anyone ever made the e-fan swap before? If so, how did you fool the system into thinking the OEM fan was still there? Does anyone know if it’s just a resistance based system or is there some sort of PWM based interface? Or, knowing Land Rover, is there any type of controller module built into the viscous fluid fan clutch?
It was fairly simple with my truck, a connector cut off a scrapped fan and some properly sized resistors and voila! The truck thought the stock fan was still there and all was well with the world...the rover is A LOT more advanced than that, and I have my doubts this trick will work in this application....plus, I’d have to figure the pin outs and resistance values as well
Before I take my wife’s DD off the road to make the swap/repairs, I need your help!!!!
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I’m not sure if everyone’s been following the thread on the search for a new crossover tube, but as I’m on the cusp of some system repairs/upgrades/modifications, I need your help as I’m struggling with one piece of the puzzle.
Long story even longer, I’ve been planning on modifying the cooling system for quite some time as I’m already on my 3rd water pump and 2nd crossover tube. My plan is to replace the water pump with a Davies Craig in line electric pump, remove the thermostat (which requires some slight modification to the cooling tube junctions) and replace the mechanical fan with one (or more) electric fans. Once that is done, I’m going to try and Re-route the crossover tube...somehow...possibly straight out the front of the block...if I can make it work...won’t know till I get in there and the mechanical water pump is out of the way.
Quick disclaimer!!! Before we get off track and start dieting whether it’ll work, or have the capacity, I made the switch on my 5.9L diesel truck and have pulled heavy with it with no problems! So, I know the “e” conversion will work to support the 5.0 gas engine just fine!
With that in mind, I’m still narrowing down which controller I want to use, as the Davies Clark controller is 100% variable for the water pump side of things, but not the fans, they’ve simply got a high and low output speed. Derale have a 100% variable fan controller, but isn’t designed for water pumps...eh, I’m still trying to decide there. (I ran separate controllers on my truck, but want them combined on the LR4)
So here’s the million dollar question, has anyone ever made the e-fan swap before? If so, how did you fool the system into thinking the OEM fan was still there? Does anyone know if it’s just a resistance based system or is there some sort of PWM based interface? Or, knowing Land Rover, is there any type of controller module built into the viscous fluid fan clutch?
It was fairly simple with my truck, a connector cut off a scrapped fan and some properly sized resistors and voila! The truck thought the stock fan was still there and all was well with the world...the rover is A LOT more advanced than that, and I have my doubts this trick will work in this application....plus, I’d have to figure the pin outs and resistance values as well
Before I take my wife’s DD off the road to make the swap/repairs, I need your help!!!!
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro