LR4 Electric Parking Brake (EPB) Services and Replacement

[Land Rover Joe]

Tribe,

I couldn't find a specific thread on this subject, so figured I would begin one.

While I didn't have any problems with my EPB on my 2010 LR4, but since I am tearing everything down...I figured we might as well do this job as well [since this job sucks so bad (and it does!)].

Here are a few related threads :

www.landroverworld.org/threads/2016-lr4-parking-brake-fault-light-when-epb-not-engaged.45254/

LR4 Parking brake manual release

Here is how to release the parking brake manually, in case anybody got it stuck. I've been asked this a lot so here I post some pics and a detailed description. http://landroverhelp.blogspot.com/2015/01/electronic-parking-brake-epb-manual.html

www.landroverworld.org

-> see the instructions for the "Electronic parking brake (EPB) Manual release" available at https://landroverhelp.blogspot.com/2015/01/electronic-parking-brake-epb-manual.html

Disco 4 (LR4) - Electronic parking brake

So my other issue is the EPB needs replacing. I know the emergency release has been pulled prior to me buying the car. My question is where to get the module etc? Landrover want £715.20+vat for the module and that is on back order with no ETA. What are my other options? I’ve seen a module...

www.landyzone.co.uk

​

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Also for reference - See Videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbyBUjCt3Uc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0ZyyPhXAR0

 

[Land Rover Joe]

This job essentially involves two components - 1) the parking brake actuator (i.e. electric motor with cables) and 2) the brake shoe assembly.

I replaced both items, for good measure, and now I have a back-up brake actuator and cable assembly. The brake shoes are not salvageable and are the item that normally causes people problems (thus the wear item).

The brake actuator is real PITA to get to...it is all the way in the center rear of the truck. My understanding is that if you do not mistreat these motors, then they should last. The problem people have had is wear in the plastic gears as part of the motor. You can buy replacement parts for that assembly, but I understand that those plastic gears are very poorly made and last 6 months (yikes!) I don't know that from experience but is what I have read and heard from suppliers - so I am keeping the original motor and assembly on hand (and do not plan on rebuilding it, as I rebuilt the AMK suspension air compressor).

The brake shoes, like all drum brake systems, I consider awful to work on (since I have no idea what I am doing). Fortunately, my gang has a ton of experience with drum brakes and it was relatively routine (but still tedious) for them to replace. I find drum brakes a nightmarish design (with all these little springs and cables and things) and I have heard that if you screw up the re-assembly...then it will cause a lot of problems or simply fail.

 

[Land Rover Joe]

In my case, I sourced through Atlantic British and went OEM (for fear of having some other issue down the road):

Parking Brake And Rear Brake Backing Plate Rebuild Kit, Includes Parking Brake Shoes, Replacement Hardware, And Split Rear Brake Backing Plates, For Land Rover LR3, LR4 And Range Rover Sport​

https://www.roverparts.com/brakes/kits/PARKBRAKIT02/

Genuine Parking Brake Actuator With Cables And E-Clips, LR072318 For Land Rover LR4 And Range Rover Sport​

https://www.roverparts.com/electrical/switches-actuators-solenoids/LR072318GK/

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Given all the considerations, the job went relatively smooth but we did not finish until we completed the rear hub installation and brake rebuild (because you have to take all that EPB stuff off in order to get at the rest of the rear end). So this took us a long time to complete but seems like all went well.

There are lots of little details about this job which are hard to capture here (and the videos attest): little shims that have to be replaced and put on (which I almost lost), setting the tension on the brake shoes, etc. Fortunately, in my case, I had some pros with drum brakes work on this so they knew what to do (unlike me, who is still terrified of these things). I don't think I would risk trying to do this particular job on my own - but I certainly would welcome folks thoughts and experiences!

One thing I have not yet done is the ECU and EPB "bed-down procedure".

This will be one of the many re calibrations or resets I need to do, but as it stands right now I am getting this DTC (amongst many, many, others)-

U0128-00 (28). Lost communication with Parking Brake Module.

I assume once I complete the "bed-down" / re-calibration, this DTC will go away.

In the meantime, everything seems to be functioning as normal (EPB does work).

 

[Mozambique]

Yikes!
Timely post. My EPB crapped out 3yrs ago. I bought the replacement gears but have never summoned the courage to tackle it....... yet

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Yikes!
Timely post. My EPB crapped out 3yrs ago. I bought the replacement gears but have never summoned the courage to tackle it....... yet

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Update -

The EPB has been fully installed and everything at this point is buttoned up.

Photographs below of the old actuator unit with the integrated cables to pull the EPB brake shoes.

Getting that part out is really challenge. Furthermore, getting all the EPB components off the wheels basically requires one to tear down the whole wheel assembly (hub, metal backing plate, all the sensor wires like ABS/Wheel Speed and pad wear sensor).

 

[Land Rover Joe]

A remaining element to this is the EPB recalibration, the so-called "Bed-in" procedure.

I have not yet done this and I think that is what is causing a relatively new fault: "C0062-54 Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor - Missing calibration".

They were kind enough to forward me the wiring schematic for the Parking Brake system - attached here for reference.

The gang at the GAP Tool told me to "Check the electrical connections to the sensor. Calibrate the sensor using the manufacturers approved diagnostic system." I am unsure what all that involves but I think basically we need to go back to the EPB unit and that sensor, check to ensure everything is tight, and then run the calibration protocols through the GAP Tool.

I think.

 

[powershift]

The SDD probably has a program to run after installing a new EBP. The R&R sounds painful and expensive. I try not to use my EPB but when I think there would be too much load on the holding pin then I use it. I don't want that pin to get stuck then I'd be in a heap of trouble trying to leave and get out of park. Maybe it doesn't matter how much force is on the pin, but being a manual guy I think I need the ebrake.