LR4 New Engine - Why Is The Restricted Performance Light On?

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KChapman

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I have a 2010 LR4 - because of the infamous timing chain issue I had to replace my engine. I used an independent mechanic who came highly recommended - he did an engine swap on my friend's Range Rover.

Once my mechanic was done with the swap, he mentioned the restricted performance light was on, and only a dealer would be able to reset it for me - he didn't have the ability. My friend had the same experience. He took his Range Rover to the dealership, they replaced the camshaft sensor, reset the codes and everything works great.

My experience with Landrover wasn't quite as simple. I took it to the same dealership, they're saying the code reads timing is off and that I "Might need to replace the timing chain." My mechanic is saying, "NO way, the timing, and the chain are perfect - just reset the code."

Who is correct? Should I tell Landrover to do a reset and be done with it? Do I need a new sensor? Or is it possible that something really is wrong with the timing - which Landrover is saying requires 6k and 5 weeks.

My mechanic is 100% confident in his work, but of course, I have no real way of verifying other than the good job he did for my friend and the fact that the car feels like it's running well.

Any advice or insight?
 

ktm525

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Why did you do a complete engine replacement when the timing chains needed to be done? Something doesn't smell right. Someone doing a complete engine replacement should be able to clear codes.
 

Nechaken

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Yeah, seems the mechanic should have the IID or SDD tool to be able to reset any codes...
 

jlglr4

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I think the dealer is probably wrong. At the very least, they should clear the code and see if it comes back.

If your timing is off enough to trigger restricted performance, you’d notice an issue of some sort with the way the engine is running, right? If you say the engine is running fine (no restricted performance), then it seems the light/code is in error. What is the code that’s causing the light anyway?

In any event, if the timing is incorrect on an engine the mechanic just put in, I don’t think that should be on you (maybe parts, but not labor). Either the engine is new or refurb (in which case the supplier should be verifying the TC is installed correctly), or the mechanic should be checking this if the engine is straight out of a wreck. You should be able to work something out with him.

@ktm525, I did recently learn from my wife‘s volvo that there are some “permanent” codes that can cannot be erased except by the dealer. Not sure if that’s really true or not, or if it applies to LR, but that’s what I read when I had a code I couldn’t erase from her car (relating to a misfire as I recall). However, once the underlying problem is fixed, the permanent codes will disappear after a few drive cycles (once the ecm determines that the problem is rectified).
 

KChapman

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I had bent valves and other issues so the best course was a total replacement. He doesn't have the tool - he works on engines for a major corporation and does replacements/rebuilds on the side. As I mentioned, the work he did for my friend was outstanding and about half the cost of what it would have been at the dealership. But he doesn't have the proper tool to reset the codes - hence the reason you have to take it Landrover and pay a couple of hundred bucks to get them to do it. And in the case of my friend buy a new sensor.

I ran into the same thing when I replaced my tires at Firestone. They couldn't reset the tire pressure light, I had to take it to the dealership and pay to have them do it.

What I'm wondering - has anyone had experience replacing an engine? Is it typical to see a warning light appear after that requires resetting?
 

Nechaken

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There's two good LR-specific shops in Denver, Roadside Werx and J.C. British. I might make an appointment to have one of them take a look.
 

KChapman

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I think the dealer is probably wrong. At the very least, they should clear the code and see if it comes back.

If your timing is off enough to trigger restricted performance, you’d notice an issue of some sort with the way the engine is running, right? If you say the engine is running fine (no restricted performance), then it seems the light/code is in error. What is the code that’s causing the light anyway?

In any event, if the timing is incorrect on an engine the mechanic just put in, I don’t think that should be on you (maybe parts, but not labor). Either the engine is new or refurb (in which case the supplier should be verifying the TC is installed correctly), or the mechanic should be checking this if the engine is straight out of a wreck. You should be able to work something out with him.

@ktm525, I did recently learn from my wife‘s volvo that there are some “permanent” codes that can cannot be erased except by the dealer. Not sure if that’s really true or not, or if it applies to LR, but that’s what I read when I had a code I couldn’t erase from her car (relating to a misfire as I recall). However, once the underlying problem is fixed, the permanent codes will disappear after a few drive cycles (once the ecm determines that the problem is rectified).
The code was that the timing is off - the dealer said they'd need to take the engine apart to figure everything out - which would be 6k. My mechanic is 100% confident the timing is perfect. But I have no way of checking - is there a way to know if the timing is really off, without taking the engine apart?
 

jlglr4

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I was wondering if you knew the exact code. There is really no single code that says definitely that “your timing is off”.

If the engine seems to be running fine, I would ask LR to clear the code so you can see if it comes back. You can explain that you think its a residual code since you just had the engine replaced and it seems to be running fine. Maybe they’ve already done that (cleared the code and it returned). If the code returns after you clear it, there there is still some problem that your independent mechanic should be willing to address since he installed the engine.

If timing is truly off, you should have other symptoms. Your car is not actually running in restricted performance is it? Has good power/acceleration, drives normally, no missing/hesitation, starts up quickly? I can’t understand why LR would want to start pulling your engine apart if its running okay.
 

greiswig

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You've had good advice in this thread already. Only thing I'd add is that buying a GAP tool is probably a good investment for you now, too. Clear the code yourself, read the code yourself, etc. And if it does end up having to go back to your engine installer, he has a way of reading real-time data about timing, I believe.
 

ryanjl

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Why isn't the conversation between your mechanic and the dealer instead of between your mechanic and you, and then you and the dealer?

It seems you paid for a job to be done and it's on your mechanic to ensure it's complete. Unless this was part of the agreement beforehand.

Regardless, the iiD tool is a musthave even if it doesn't help you out of this pickle.
 

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