LR4 v8 5.0l Spark Plug DIY

[kennyao3001]

Just thought I would throw this out there. Put together this short video showing how to change your spark plugs in your 2010-2012 LR4.

Pretty easy job to DIY with basic tools.

Parts needed:
NGK ILKAR7C10 - this is the OE Part (same as dealer)

Tools needed:
T30 torx bit
Ratchet set
9/16 Spark Plug socket
Socket extensions

 

[ktm525]

Good write up, everyone has their own technique. I found it easier to remove the airboxes. (they just pull out with no tools). Also didn't fuss with the battery box. Perhaps the 2010s are different. Was able to remove the coils without disconnecting from wiring loom on drivers side. Passenger side required me to unplug each coil from the harness. Not a fun job but at least it is a topside one.

 

[avslash]

I just did this on my 2012 with 85K miles.

I did not need to disconnect any individual coil.

I did not remove the airboxes or battery tray.

I would add that on the passenger side, I unclipped the entire coil wiring harness that runs along the top edge of the coils (4 clips, no tool required) and dropped it down in order to allow access to the T30 torx securing each coil.

On the driver's side (North American) I found that a tiny ratchet handle that holds driver bits directly in a pass through configuration(think the kind you might find in a precision tool kit) worked better than any kind of an extension/swivel set-up for the rear most coil.

The pain in this job is getting those coil screws out. Once those were out, the plugs were easy.

I did contribute one socket and 3 random clips to black hole of the LR4 engine bay. Maybe I will see them the next time I drop the skid plates. Not sure what the clips were holding, I just heard them ****** down as I was manipulating the heat shield on the passenger side.

I would call it a 4.5 beer job to account for the frustration in getting the coil screws out.

 

[ryanjl]

Can anyone confirm what the actual spark plug gap is supposed to be?

Trying to search online, I've seen 1.0mm, and I've seen .4mm.

 

[ktm525]

NGK says 1.0mm.
Denso says 1.0mm for the iridium's and 1.1mm for the iridium long life.

Based on these two I would say 1mm is safe and is definitely not .4mm.

 

[ktm525]

Also if using NGK note that stock from the factory these came with 6C10 which have been superseded by the 7C10.

 

[ryanjl]

NGK says 1.0mm.
Denso says 1.0mm for the iridium's and 1.1mm for the iridium long life.

Based on these two I would say 1mm is safe and is definitely not .4mm.

Thanks.

 

[djkaosone]

Great video! Everyone has their own techniques and I do agree that it's easier to get to them if you pull out the battery sidings. What I don't agree is that this is an easy job. It takes more than an hour, even if you're super efficient. With that said, throw some Denso Long Life Iridiums in there and you'll be set for a few years.

I like Densos over NGKs, but thats a personal preference.

 

[ryanjl]

NGK says 1.0mm.
Denso says 1.0mm for the iridium's and 1.1mm for the iridium long life.

Based on these two I would say 1mm is safe and is definitely not .4mm.

So I realized the confusion online appears to be that 1 mm is roughly equivalent to .04 inches.

 

[ktm525]

So I realized the confusion online appears to be that 1 mm is roughly equivalent to .04 inches.

The US needs to join the rest of the world.