LR4 V8 smog help - catalytic monitor won't get to ready state

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djkaosone

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I haven't been able to find readiness monitors in IID tool... Where do you look for those?
One of the very few things that the iid tool doesn't have. You'll need a "regular" Land Rover compatible odb2 scanner to view it. I have an iCarsoft i930 (backup) that reads it.
 

Al Pizzica

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Update: still no luck. Tried the high RPM thing to get the cats hot, no dice.
I don't have an IID tool, just a basic $25 scan tool that can tell readiness or read trouble codes.

From some YouTube research it is most likely not all of my items that are "not ready" have an issue. Apparently some older BMWs have this issue too so there is some decent content but it doesn't tell you how to fix it, just how hard it is when you have no codes but it still won't get ready. Does give some directions to head.

Apparently it checks for readiness sequentially and then stops trying after the first issue is "not ready".
Trouble is, I can't find anything online about what order the LR checks things to give me a clue as to what isn't ready first.
Scan tool says: Evap, fuel, Cats, 02 and EGR not ready.
I tried a new fuel cap for S&G and that didn't help.
I took apart the air intake to check where they did the MAP sensor replacement and looked for anything loose or a possible broken vacuum line and everything looks OK.

I guess I will try a new MAP sensor since they aren't too expensive. Then I guess I will go after the O2 sensors, which at 101k maybe are getting to the end anyway?
That looks like a major PITA job, guess I will look around on here for advice.

Any help or thoughts appreciated. Now 3 months out of inspection and the thing runs and drives great so its a shame to keep it off the road.
 

jlglr4

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You mention they replaced the MAP sensor, but I believe you have a MAF sensor (possibly in addition to the MAP). On the v6, we have two MAP sensors and two MAF sensors. Not sure what you have on the V8.

MAPs are in the intake manifold and measure the intake pressure, MAFs are in the intake plenum, usually not far from the air filter box someplace, and measure intake air flow. It’s usually the MAFs, not the MAPs, that cause problems. If they replaced the MAP, but not the MAFs, you can try replacing or cleaning the MAFs to see if that helps.

The other thing you might check is engine coolant temp sensors. If you can see actual engine temp on your generic scan tool, check that first with the engine fully warmed up. I believe the v8 should be around 190-200 F if I remember correctly.

Then I think o2 sensors would be next on my list.

The other thing that might help is resetting engine adaptations, though I’m not sure how you do it without a GAP tool.

Another thought - could be exhaust manifold leak.

In the end, you might spend more money chasing this down by replacing parts than just taking it to an LR shop for diagnosis first. This is especially true without a scan tool because you really should reset adaptations (or drive a long distance) after replacing each part - sometimes the effect is not immediate otherwise because of stored past data.
 

Al Pizzica

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Thanks, that's exactly the math balance I was trying to do in my head but both LR dealers around here have incredible dense service departments with techs that really don't know much of anything related to anything more complex than an oil change. I might be able to try and get a senior technician on the case but I had the LR4 at a very competent indy shop and they couldn't figure it out, they just said to drive it until they set but 1100 miles later that just isn't happening.
V8 has one MAP, under the plenum, which they replaced, and two MAF's on either side. They specified it was the MAP.

That's a good lead on engine temp. My non LR indy guy said certain Chevys had bad thermostats that wouldn't get the car up to temp and had the same thing happen to them.
 

Al Pizzica

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Update, I printed out two pages of different LR/Jag drive cycles and following those that I can do in traffic around here has set the CAT readiness after 80 miles but the O2's are still out. It's crazy how much conflicting info there is out there online for LR4 drive cycles.
 

Al Pizzica

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Just to tie a bow for anyone else with this issue.
2,000 miles and many months later I got them to set.
I went out late at night and did the parts of the drive cycle where you drive at 60mph for several minutes and then let the vehicle drift to a complete stop without the brakes. This is difficult to do around here because of traffic and because the LR4 is so heavy it just doesn't want to come to a complete stop so I used the emergency brake. Whatever I did it finally set the O2 sensors. Crazy!
 

MellonRover

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Took me 300 mi, including two highway trips of 2r and 3hour trips with some mixed driving in between to get the remaining I/M monitors set.
( Note...dont do lowers steering column the week before inspection)
 

MellonRover

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No, but FSM instructions said to disconnect negative terminal prior to removing all the plastic, and moving the transfer case computer.
 

ftillier

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Oh, interesting, my FSM just says to disconnect the battery, but I didn't - I wasn't messing with anything electrical. I just removed the access cover in the driver's wheel well, used a long extension on the socket wrench to reach the upper clamp bolt (from above), but didn't need to remove any plastic pieces (other than the splash shield) or computers.
 

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