Made an appointment for timing chain fix

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powershift

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That's a lot of money to remove the intake manifold. Comes off in less that 10 minutes.
But, the manifold can be lifted up at the front to access the Y pipe.
Agreed, it is a lot and a bit suspect. I've done the intake before so it seemed excessive and enough money to motivate me to get out there and DIY. Since I don't actually need to remove the intake I won't need to disconnect those wires in back it sounds like.

I got the revised quote and the grand total is huge but they are doing a lot of work and I'm hopeful they will do a good job. I'd like to get input on it though if anyone has any thoughts or sees anything else a bit suspect. I called the shop that did my a-arms for a 2nd quote on the trans filter and fluid and it was $100 more. The brake fluid flush seems high by $100, I think I paid $75 on my vettes but it isn't too high to where I want to buy a vacuum pump and DIY. I won't be changing it again probably for 100k miles.

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powershift

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why do they need 3 quarts of front axle fluid? Same with transfer etc?
That is a great question. If it were me doing the work I'd just drain what is there and refill. But the labor says they are doing a flush so I'm guessing either to pad their pockets or they would be using the extra fluid to flush out contaminants or clutch pack material? Is it even possible to flush the diffs and transfer case? I haven't been in there but I do know the diffs are advanced and do partial and full locking so if that mechanism gets material caked in there and it is physically possible to flush then it might be worthy of flushing.

But if it is suspect I'll bring it up since I already paid the deposit. I'm pretty sure they would correct it if its a problem.
 

powershift

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There are 2 power steering flushing kits too. I should ask about why there would be 2 kits needed. I have a slight power steering moan that happens and he thought changing the fluid would correct it. But that might be a trick and I might be paying for a flush and then later a power steering rack lol. Any thoughts on that?
 

f1racer328

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There are 2 power steering flushing kits too. I should ask about why there would be 2 kits needed. I have a slight power steering moan that happens and he thought changing the fluid would correct it. But that might be a trick and I might be paying for a flush and then later a power steering rack lol. Any thoughts on that?
I actually had a whine/slight groan from my power steering and a fluid exchange did indeed fix it. I believe I made a post about my experience with that.
 

itsaguything

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True enough however, I’m a “fix it all at once” guy. Time is money and precious.
Perhaps a position of negotiation on the additional work is in order, as opposed to just a complaint??
 
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Agreed, it is a lot and a bit suspect. I've done the intake before so it seemed excessive and enough money to motivate me to get out there and DIY. Since I don't actually need to remove the intake I won't need to disconnect those wires in back it sounds like.

I got the revised quote and the grand total is huge but they are doing a lot of work and I'm hopeful they will do a good job. I'd like to get input on it though if anyone has any thoughts or sees anything else a bit suspect. I called the shop that did my a-arms for a 2nd quote on the trans filter and fluid and it was $100 more. The brake fluid flush seems high by $100, I think I paid $75 on my vettes but it isn't too high to where I want to buy a vacuum pump and DIY. I won't be changing it again probably for 100k miles.

View attachment 24102
Hey there Powershift. You've got me questioning my life's choices. Took my 2011 LR4 in for its 150K check up last month. Went to an independent Rover only shop. Asked about the timing chain issue. Fortunately they said they don't hear it in my engine -yet-. I've already had several of the items on your total list done over the years. How much was just the timing chain and related repair cost?
I track my maintenance on CarFax. On my vehicle page they give a trade-in value of just $3000! Did a search on Auto Trader of 2010-2012 LR4s for sale within 500 miles of Seattle. Only 6 came up with a listing price range of $9K (private party) to $16K (dealer). Average about $12K.
Would I be willing to spend $12k for maintenance on a 13 yo vehicle? Or even maybe just $4k for the timing chain replacement? Granted its an excellent machine. But if I got T ***** and totaled after the repairs, what would my insurance recovery be?
Oiy. Win the lottery. That's my plan! lol.
 

itsaguything

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Did I read the earlier message right?
No way, I never reuse gaskets… as I want to avoid touching the component again over something as simple as a leak, that could have been avoided in the first place.
 

powershift

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Hey there Powershift. You've got me questioning my life's choices. Took my 2011 LR4 in for its 150K check up last month. Went to an independent Rover only shop. Asked about the timing chain issue. Fortunately they said they don't hear it in my engine -yet-. I've already had several of the items on your total list done over the years. How much was just the timing chain and related repair cost?
I track my maintenance on CarFax. On my vehicle page they give a trade-in value of just $3000! Did a search on Auto Trader of 2010-2012 LR4s for sale within 500 miles of Seattle. Only 6 came up with a listing price range of $9K (private party) to $16K (dealer). Average about $12K.
Would I be willing to spend $12k for maintenance on a 13 yo vehicle? Or even maybe just $4k for the timing chain replacement? Granted its an excellent machine. But if I got T ***** and totaled after the repairs, what would my insurance recovery be?
Oiy. Win the lottery. That's my plan! lol.
They quoted $8k for the timing chain work. But they also required changing the cam actuators (the parts that connect to the cam to change timing) because they too wear out from long oil change intervals. Normal quotes around here were $7k and nobody else mentioned the actuators. One Land Rover indy said he wouldn't do the chain because the engine could still fail later. I don't think he knew about the actuators going out.
For the actual value of the LR4, yeah it isn't worth spending the money for and that is why people dump them for cheap and how I got mine. I bought mine for $15k, its MSRP was $60k in 2012 and according to KBB I overpaid.

But the way I look at it is I'll need to spend $60k+ for a new 4X4 and even at that price I didn't find a V8 4X4 that I would want to overland in where the seats lay down flat in the back, all leather, luxurious, body-on-frame design, locker, looks 1/2 way decent and a rig that I could drive in a metro area and fit into compact parking garages. Even the new defenders aren't that great because they are unibody! And a V8 Defender was waayy over my budget. I didn't want a car loan. I looked and looked. Even after I bought the LR4 and started questioning spending that coin I couldn't find anything.

The runner up was the Hummer H2, but it was much more expensive to find a decent one ($40k+) that still needed a lot of work having high miles. Its also much bigger and wouldn't fit into parking garages and would also be bigger in width and length on the trails. On the flip side, it could haul more cargo by design. I also thought about pickup trucks but they are too big and the cargo area would need a camper of some sort and I didn't want that.

So while it isn't worth the money I'm spending from an investment perspective, it is worth the money to get a vehicle that meets my needs.

Did I read the earlier message right?
No way, I never reuse gaskets… as I want to avoid touching the component again over something as simple as a leak, that could have been avoided in the first place.
Re-using the intake gaskets? I had to remove the intake manifold a second time right after I installed it, I didn't buy new gaskets and it didn't leak. They are rubber and didn't get hard, cracked or deformed. Its been about 2 months so maybe I should get new intake gaskets.
 

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