New 2012 LR4 owner with a few questions

Elohite

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Hello all, new owner in San Antonio, TX to a 2012 LR4 HSE Lux in Fuji White with 110k miles that I picked up the other month.

Since purchase I have done some research on various forums such as this to determine what common issues to address and be mindful of. Since acquiring the vehicle I have done a few preventative measures including new belt, water pump, thermostat, the front and rear cross over pipes, brakes, and the front valve block. I am a big DIYer when I can but did take the LR4 to a local indy shop to do the water pump and coolant cross over pipes. Other things such as the brakes and front valve block and a new sunroof drain line on passenger side, I did in my driveway. All parts were OEM/OES and ordered from FCP Euro to take advantage of the lifetime warranty. Also have done a few minor mods/fixes like replacing some bulbs, fog lights, lug nuts, fixing various interior trim pieces, adding a dashcam, sidesteps, crossbars and a universal roof rack.

I also ordered the BT GAP IID Tool. It has been extremely helpful in determining fault codes and diagnosing issues amongst other things like enabling some features such as the digital speedo. Let me know if there are other helpful features I can add!

Some questions I have:

About two weeks after I originally purchased the vehicle it threw a CEL for P0430: Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank2) and a P0133 : O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1). I ran two cans of BG Platinum 44K through the car over a two week period and I have not seen the codes return since, over a month plus now. Is this something I should I be concerned about as replacing the catalytic converter looks to be a bit an expense. I feel like the BG Platinum 44K fixed the issue but maybe someone has had their own experience to share.

Overnight or when the vehicle is parked for a period it sags evenly in the front end. Upon start up it airs up and rises immediately. I also have gotten an intermittent suspension fault that goes away upon restart. The Gap IID tool has provided the C1130-66 (AF) Code. Air spring supply - Algorithm based failure. I did the soapy water test on the front air springs and could not detect a leak, but perhaps I did it wrong as I replaced the front valve block (OEM Part) but even after the vehicle still sags in the front when parked. My next guess is it is the front air springs and I am needing to replace both it seems. Is there anything else I can check or another test I can try to help pinpoint that it is indeed the front air springs and not another component?

The vehicle has a intermittent squeak at low speeds over speedbumps that I am trying to pin point, not sure if it is from worn lower control arms, sway bar bushings, or a leak in the (front) air springs. I did spray some silicone grease on all the bushings and ball joints and it has since helped a lot, no squeaks since then but still want to address it properly as I feel the lubrication may just be a band aid to the real issue.

TPMS, I feel like the vehicle should / may have this being a HSE Lux but I have not seen a setting for it on the carputer info screen anywhere. Is there a easy way to determine if I have this installed or not? I did see some settings in the GAP IID tool but have not messed with those yet.

OEM wheel specs. I am not familiar with all the styles offered and was hoping someone could advise me of the width and offset of my stock wheels? As far as I know they are 20 inch and the 10 split spoke design. They are a great looking OEM wheel but I have a personal preference to minimize the gap to the fender line and am considering spacers, such as the 30mm Terrafirma set offered from Lucky8, so the wheels aren't so "tucked" and to provide a more aggressive stance. I know everyone has their own opinions on spacers but some help on my OEM wheels width and offset will help me determine the proper offset and width I need whether I keep these wheels or get some aftermarket ones down the road.

Lastly, for my mileage (110k) is there anything else I should be mindful of? Things that come to mind are spark plugs and maybe a transmission fluid flush but I do not want to anything that is not completely necessary. Sorry for the long post and thanks to anyone who has taken the time to read and respond.


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CRYA

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Hi and welcome. Great looking truck. I just got a ‘12 a month ago also. Sorry I don’t have the answers you seek. I’m sure others here will chime in on your issues.
 

ryanjl

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For the suspension, pull the suspension fuse and let it sit overnight. The suspension can do some auto-levelling stuff even when the vehicle is off, but when you pull the fuse it won't adjust and the leaking spring (if it is a leaking spring) will reveal itself. If it still sags evenly in the front and you've already replaced the front block, it could be the center block, which is right next to the air compressor.

All LR4s will have the TPMS.

At 110k miles, transmission fluid is probably your next thing. There is no flush on these, though. It's a drain, replace the filter, refill. Make sure you get the 2-piece filter replacement kit and not the 1-piece.
 

Fuji4

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plugs. and FYI O2 sensors don't last forever. i have two banks with issues and am replacing all 6 of them today.
 

ryanjl

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For the suspension, pull the suspension fuse and let it sit overnight. The suspension can do some auto-levelling stuff even when the vehicle is off, but when you pull the fuse it won't adjust and the leaking spring (if it is a leaking spring) will reveal itself. If it still sags evenly in the front and you've already replaced the front block, it could be the center block, which is right next to the air compressor.

All LR4s will have the TPMS.

At 110k miles, transmission fluid is probably your next thing. There is no flush on these, though. It's a drain, replace the filter, refill. Make sure you get the 2-piece filter replacement kit and not the 1-piece.

Forgot to add, when you pull the suspension fuse and let it sit overnight, put the suspension at off-road height first. That will help exacerbate the problem and make it easier to diagnose. Once you have it set and are ready to leave it, measure all 4 corners so you can compare the measurements after.
 

Al Pizzica

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Hello all, new owner in San Antonio, TX to a 2012 LR4 HSE Lux in Fuji White with 110k miles that I picked up the other month.

I feel like the BG Platinum 44K fixed the issue but maybe someone has had their own experience to share.

Is there anything else I can check or another test I can try to help pinpoint that it is indeed the front air springs and not another component?

no squeaks since then but still want to address it properly as I feel the lubrication may just be a band aid to the real issue.

TPMS, I feel like the vehicle should / may have this being a HSE Lux but I have not seen a setting for it on the carputer info screen anywhere. Is there a easy way to determine if I have this installed or not? I did see some settings in the GAP IID tool but have not messed with those yet.

OEM wheel specs. I am not familiar with all the styles offered and was hoping someone could advise me of the width and offset of my stock wheels? As far as I know they are 20 inch and the 10 split spoke design. They are a great looking OEM wheel but I have a personal preference to minimize the gap to the fender line and am considering spacers, such as the 30mm Terrafirma set offered from Lucky8, so the wheels aren't so "tucked" and to provide a more aggressive stance. I know everyone has their own opinions on spacers but some help on my OEM wheels width and offset will help me determine the proper offset and width I need whether I keep these wheels or get some aftermarket ones down the road.

Lastly, for my mileage (110k) is there anything else I should be mindful of? Things that come to mind are spark plugs and maybe a transmission fluid flush but I do not want to anything that is not completely necessary. Sorry for the long post and thanks to anyone who has taken the time to read and respond.


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Hey, welcome and nice looking truck!
We have had 2 of the V8 LR4s and took a lot of experience from the first one. It sounds like you hit the hot spots through some good research.
For your questions:
I think these injectors get really dirty and noisy on these so in our newer one I run seafoam (basically BG) about every third or fourth tank and it seems to work well enough for the cost.
You will know when the front control arms go, it won't be subtle. If they are original they will go. I would ride it out until they do and lube as necessary. If I had to do it again I would get the OEM arms vs the AB knock offs because the bushings are a touch softer. My mechanic said I was wise not to do this myself (I do stuff like that on Jeeps all the time) because they were so frozen on there.
You have TPS but it won't show you the pressures, only that something is low: very annoying.
Sorry can't help with wheels, tons of searching info can be found on here.
On the last issue, Ryan covered it well with the tranny but I would just echo more frequent oil changes than it says too, its annoying but with Wal Mart Mobil 1 and a mityvac it is cheap and easy insurance. I'm 90% sure the issues with our first one were sticking with the ridiculous OEM oil change specs.
Al
 

LB Bill

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gsxr

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... If it still sags evenly in the front and you've already replaced the front block, it could be the center block...
This answers a question I had, Ryan... my truck had the front block replaced at the dealer 6 months before I bought it, because 1 front corner was dropping. Now (a few years later) with a door left open to disable auto-leveling, the front drops evenly. Takes about a week to bottom out. I was suspecting the center block but wasn't sure.



At 110k miles, transmission fluid is probably your next thing. There is no flush on these, though. It's a drain, replace the filter, refill. Make sure you get the 2-piece filter replacement kit and not the 1-piece.
Ditto the above. Keep in mind the 6-speed trans holds 10 quarts of fluid and you can only drain about half that if dropping the pan, and only a third if just draining the pan. So to "change" the fluid it requires multiple drains/drives/refills. If JLR had just spend the extra two bucks for a torque converter drain plug, we'd be able to do a complete fluid change (like the MB NAG1/NAG2 trannies)... sigh. You need a fluid pump to refill (like this one), there is no dipstick tube to pour into.


BTW, congrats on scoring a V8 Lux!

:cool:
 

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