Oil Level Indicator - STUPID

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jptruck

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2006
Posts
543
Reaction score
20
What the hell. To avoid the dealership (an hour drive away), I got an oil change on my 2019 Discovery. We've done the steps to re-set the oil indicator (hit start, no brake, open door, open hood, put foot on gas and brake for 60 seconds, etc.). NOTHING. It still says "oil level not available."

So, I'm now driving around with a vehicle that had an oil change hoping that they put in the right amount of oil. The only solution is to drive the vehicle to the dealership to check it.

This is the type of stupidity that really ****** me off. Seriously, how hard is it to retain a physical dipstick in an engine. At the very least, checking the oil level should be a fairly bullet proof item. So, if I have engine trouble in the road, do I have to wait 15-20 minutes for the oil level to cool down before my engine will give me a reading? WTH
 

Joey Wharton

New Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2020
Posts
3
Reaction score
3
Location
Colorado
Be careful with that. I was 2000 miles into an oil change. They didn't reset sensor properly. Took it into a LandRover specialty shop for new brakes (not dealer!!). They discovered I was down to 2 quarts due to a bad oil replacement job! They didn't install the filter seal properly and was leaking at the filter. I was THAT close to losing the engine due to someones laziness. Find yourself a good local dedicated LandRover mechanic and get that oil checked ASAP.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Posts
16
Reaction score
17
Location
Roaring Fork Valley, Colorado
I had a dealer forget to reset, and I was able to do it following the instructions you mentioned, though it took a couple of try's to get it right. As Joey indicates, you may have a problem.
 

jptruck

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2006
Posts
543
Reaction score
20
I did have a problem. It was overfilled. It took multiple reset attempts to get it do so. You also have to remember to hit the button without the brake whenever you step into the car. If you even let the engine slightly start, it’ll register “not available.” This is a silly thing. My other problem is even worse (new thread).
 

Bogwhoppit

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Posts
111
Reaction score
47
Location
Shamong, NJ
I would invest in a mighty-vac and a few tools if you don't already have them. That way, change the oil yourself, save some money, and likely the equipment will pay for itself after a few changes. More importantly, with the mighty-vac you can see just how much is coming out, and thus how much you're putting back in. I just finished a change myself (every 7.5K). The filter kit was $24 from AB and I bought an extra 5 quarts of Castrol 5w-20 Fluid Ti Full Syn for $27! I would also add - don't stick to LR recommended service schedule. At the least increase the frequency of your basics like engine oil change.
 

BeemerNut

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Posts
436
Reaction score
82
Be careful with that. I was 2000 miles into an oil change. They didn't reset sensor properly. Took it into a LandRover specialty shop for new brakes (not dealer!!). They discovered I was down to 2 quarts due to a bad oil replacement job! They didn't install the filter seal properly and was leaking at the filter. I was THAT close to losing the engine due to someones laziness. Find yourself a good local dedicated LandRover mechanic and get that oil checked ASAP.

It's called DIY, trust NO ONE including LR Stealerships. "Laziness" no pure stupidity working on your expensive toy......~~=o&o>......
 

BeemerNut

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Posts
436
Reaction score
82
Changing the oil and filter at half the recommended mileage seems like cheap insurance.

True to a point but it depends on you being a smart buyer purchasing oil and filters on sale buying in bulk. My case 11 vehicles, 10 motorcycles I maintain in the family fleet.

Depending on how you drive, short hops to work like 5-10 miles daily vs a person that drives 80-100 miles two to three days a week, their oil changes should be extended to as example 3,500 to 4,000 miles no problem, you be ther judge. Even at that mileage the oil still has it's protective properties and not used up so it's a waste being **** changing it at 1,800 to 2,000 miles.
The one that gets me a 7,500 mile oil change the manufacture stating change the filter at 15,000 miles. Mix new with old thinking, no thanks.
Adding to this most if not all modern vehicles run a tiny oil filter, *** is that all about? Cold starts with thick oil plus the high initial first start rpm's to heat the Cats up quicker, another EPA **** stunt with the driver adding a little throttle in neutral, the oil filter can possibly or will go into bypass. Yup unfiltered oil the last protection keeping the engine lubed vs starving bearings has just happened over and over again.
Tiny filters going into bypass much sooner than a larger filter with a lot larger filter media material area allowing cold thick oil to pass before going into bypass. Think about it as well the daily dry starts especially in cold climate living locations.
Another condition, how good the engine is in keeping the oil clean with less blowby even with the same brand and type of engine, same mileage. One at 5,000 miles the oil is rather clear vs another by 1,000 miles is dark brown and opaque loaded up with carbon blowby.
Furthermore how different drivers start and treat a cold engine, reving it while cold and taking off hard right away. That's usually how a lease vehicle is treated, driver doesn't care just turn it in, second owner beware unless a company vehicle mostly long distance highway use.

Pre-Oiler, modified cold start high rpm's lowered reducing engine wear which amounts to 90% of most engine wear during cold starts has been reported for years plus before oil pressure has been established. Cross referencing oil filter charts locating a quality filter with the proper thread size and pitch for your engine as well matching gasket sealing diameter then looking deeper for a larger as well longer filter. that will fit the engine.
Just a few ideas and opinions if you love and respect engines. End of novel and ramblings. ......~~=o&o>.....
 
Last edited:

gmfain

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Posts
58
Reaction score
16
I'm changing mine every 10K + all filters. cheap insurance.

IMG_20200321_153814.jpg
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,256
Posts
217,955
Members
30,493
Latest member
A562NV
Top